tim_korn_99 wrote:IPC, Interior Lights and/or Headlamps Flicker - keywords battery courtesy electrical flucuation generator head intermittent lamp light #PIT3170E - (Jan 11, 2006)
IPC, Interior Lights and/or Headlamps Flicker
1999-2005 All Cadillac Full Size Utilities
1999-2005 All Chevrolet Full Size Trucks and Utilities
1999-2004 Chevrolet Blazer, S-10
1999-2005 All GMC Full Size Trucks and Utilities
1999-2004 GMC Envoy Classic, Jimmy, Sonoma
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Without Regulated Voltage Control
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Customers may have comments of a flickering light condition in the IPC, interior lamps or headlights. This condition is most likely to be noticed when the engine RPM is low and when high electrical load requirements are in place on the generator.
Important: Review bulletin 02-06-03-008A - Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, before proceeding with this PI.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery/batteries.
Slide the protective boot on the generator BAT terminal aside and remove the retainer and wire cable from the BAT terminal.
Unplug the generator 4-cavity terminal from the top of the generator.
Inspect cavity D on the generator connector for a red cavity plug. If a red cavity plug is present, it is not necessary to replace the generator connector. Remove the CPA and save. Remove the red cavity plug and continue with step 9. If a red cavity plug is NOT present, continue with the next step.
Remove and save the orange Weatherpack seal and CPA from the 4-way connector.
Using the proper terminal removal tool, remove the two or three wires from the 4-way connector. On vehicles without Supplemental Brake Assist (SBA), install a red cavity plug, P/N 12059168, into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector, P/N 12186568. On some 2003 and 2004 model year vehicles with SBA, install the dark blue (Circuit 5668) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector.
Depending on the vehicles model and year, install the brown wire (Circuit 25) or red wire (Circuit 225) of the vehicles wiring harness into cavity "B" of the new 4-way connector.
Install the gray (Circuit 23) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "C" of the new 4-way connector.
Obtain a piece of 0.80 mm/18GA black wire, 254 mm (8 in) long.
Install a red terminal seal, P/N 12048086, and terminal, P/N 12048074, (crimp and solder) on one end of the new black wire.
Install the new black wire into cavity "D" of the new 4-way connector.
Reinstall the connector seal and CPA, from the original connector, to the new connector.
Plug the 4-way connector into the generator.
Route the black wire to the generator BAT terminal, sliding the wire into the small end to the output terminal boot, along side the generator output wire.
Obtain a ring terminal from the terminal kit (J-38125-D) that is the same diameter as the positive post of the generator. Crimp and solder the ring terminal from the terminal kit (J-38125-D) on to the open end of the new black wire.
Place the generator output wire and the new black wire onto the generator BAT terminal and install the retainer.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Note: This modification will not work if the vehicle is utilizing the new "Regulated Voltage Control" system. This is new feature on some full-size trucks and utilities for the 2005 model year. Please inspect the vehicle prior to performing this modification.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Ok, I've done some more research, and here is what I've found:
GM Part # 15306009
That's the complete plug with a pigtail. It comes loaded with 4 wires coming out of it.
That should work for me, however, the only dealership that has it in stock, want's $44.48 for it..
GM Parts Direct has it for $20, but you have to wait on shipping.
Just to test out this theory, I just took a piece of 18g wire, and stripped an inch of it back, and "inserted" into the S pin hole in the terminal. That way, when I pushed the connector it, it held the wire tightly onto the corresponding terminal. (Redneck engineering at it's finest)
I then ran the other end of the wire to the alternator output stud.
That seems to have fixed my problem! I started it up, checked output, and then turned on all of my lights. I couldn't see anything flickering, and was very pleased.
I just got done calling all of the local parts stores, and NAPA came to the rescue.
They have it in stock, for $23. Now that I know that it fixes my problem, I have no problem paying that!
Just for future reference, the connector can be looked up by:
AC DELCO Part # PT1136
That's the full connector assembly with a pigtail of all 4 wires coming out of it.