LT1 / LS1 Electric Cooling Fans

Modified and aftermarket systems, lights, wiring, etc.

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Post by HenryJ »

:lmao:
You really gotta find a smarter duck :roflmao:

Luck like that can not hold out forever...can it?

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote::lmao:
You really gotta find a smarter duck :roflmao:

Luck like that can not hold out forever...can it?
Yes it can :lol:

I believe my luck is working in reverse which is one way to look at it. Two tours in the S.E. Asia war games (just a few minor broken bones and cuts) and a successful career in law enforcement completed (with just a few stitches and bruises). I'm paying my dues now for the luck I had in the past.

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Post by F9K9 »

Needing help here. :oops: I have traced down part of my problem to my switches that override the e-fans to manually turn them off and on. They are lighted rocker switches. When I flip them on they light up but, it is actually turning off the power. When they are in the off position they are actually providing power. Below is a diagram that was on the containers that they came in. I know it must be a simple thing to figure out but, my brain is toast today. :bonk:

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Post by HenryJ »

Swap the positive and ground.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Swap the positive and ground.
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Post by HenryJ »

I had a similar thing happen to me while trying to wire some driving lights on a truck. I wired them to only operate when the ignition and highbeams are on. That way they can dim the highbeams and not have to flip the switch too. This also means they can not forget and leave them on as they shut off with the key. "Truck driver proofing" is what I call it. The wiring may be a little complicated, but the user can be a complete idiot :mg:
Mine kept tripping the breaker since in the off position the switch grounded the hot wire in the off position.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:I had a similar thing happen to me while trying to wire some driving lights on a truck. I wired them to only operate when the ignition and highbeams are on. That way they can dim the highbeams and not have to flip the switch too. This also means they can not forget and leave them on as they shut off with the key. "Truck driver proofing" is what I call it. The wiring may be a little complicated, but the user can be a complete idiot :mg:
Mine kept tripping the breaker since in the off position the switch grounded the hot wire in the off position.


I don't know how I reversed those wires but, the fact is, I did. It explains everything now. Activating the manual "off" SWITCH was actual turning it off allowing the fans to come on because the manual "on" switch was sending 12v to the VSC. The switches overrode the temp probe and AC demand signal to prevent them working correctly. All is working fine now. I am a little disappointed that the fans are cycling on and off frequently with my gauge reading 195 degrees. The adjustment screw is pegged on the lowest setting (turned all the way clockwise).

Thanks again for all your help.
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Post by HenryJ »

Make sure that your temp sender is making good contact with the tubes and is in line with the flow. You might even try insulating the tip where it exits the radiators front to reduce the cooling effect it is seeing. Come to think of it I guess I am thinking about that backward :roll: The sensor operates from 155 to 230 and you are on the upper edge of that. I am running the 180* stat and have had no trouble getting a comfortable setting.
You could try moving the sensor to a slightly cooler location to better match it's temperature to your engines.

Mine took about a week to settle down and I think I adjusted, or tweaked the setting about three times to fine tune it.

Remember that the fans will kick on with the AC. This goes for the defrost positions as well. there are not too many positions where the fans will not kick on with the heater. I leave mine set to the two o'clock position ducted to my feet most of the time.

Glad you are getting it all figured out. Let us know about your impressions of the performance.
The quiet is really noticeable.

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Post by F9K9 »

I'm very close to the radiator inlet. Second horizontal "thingy" down from the top and within 2". I know I have good contact because I sweated every mm the probe went and the resistance was more than I expected. I'll give
it some time but, am sure the manual override ON and OFF at the time activated didn't help the situation.
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:The conversion is not all that difficult and when you're done it is a direct bolt in assembly. There is a guy in KY installing his right now. If he can do it anyone can. His ducks drown and he has managed to tackle this project.
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Post by HenryJ »

Progress report...please.

Did you get the temp setting worked out?

Did you get the same variable speed controller that I used , or the heavy duty model?

Any feed back on performance?

Thoughts? Impressions?

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Progress report...please.


Aye, Aye, Sir :wink:
HenryJ wrote:Did you get the temp setting worked out?


To be honest, I have not tried due to time constraints and going from 4" of snow to 75° in the last 8 days. I am also waiting until after I relocate my IAT again. I let mine go to a member with my Airaid intake and I want to reinstall my 180° t-stat.
HenryJ wrote:Did you get the same variable speed controller that I used , or the heavy duty model?


I got the same unit that you did as mentioned earlier in this topic.
HenryJ wrote:Any feed back on performance?


Using the seat of the pants dyno it seems to have more "low end" and as you stated the tires chirp more since the instal. I have only had rushed short trips since the install and can't comment on gas consumption yet.

HenryJ wrote:Thoughts? Impressions?


Yes :roll: I once got to work and didn't hear the fans after I climbed out of my rig and that was a concern after hearing them run the usual 30 seconds when my truck was shutdown, what few times I drove after the install. This only happened the one time.

A second incident that has not been repeated, that I know of, is that last Sunday I parked at our wallyworld (engine off) and was listening to a story and waiting on my right wing Fox News station to finish the story before I went inside. The fans kept cycling on and off. like they do when the engine is running. As far as I know, that has happened only once but, I don't make a habit of loitering around the truck when I arrive somewhere.

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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:...I parked at our wallyworld (engine off) and was listening to a story and waiting on my right wing Fox News station to finish the story before I went inside. The fans kept cycling on and off. like they do when the engine is running. As far as I know, that has happened only once but, I don't make a habit of loitering around the truck when I arrive somewhere.
Open your door and they will quit doing that.
It must be the retained accessory power. Mine does this as well. If you are close to operating temperature the fans do kick on momentarily to prevent heat soak and boil over after shut off. For some reason this cycle seems to repeat when the retained power function is active. I suppose there may be a method of changing this phenomenon. Perhaps tapping an ignition source separated from the retained power system? Or adding a relay , diode, or other electronic method of separation?

It is not really an inconvenience, or problem as I see it. I am going to leave mine "as-is" :mg:

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Open your door and they will quit doing that.
It must be the retained accessory power.

It is not really an inconvenience, or problem as I see it. I am going to leave mine "as-is" :mg:


That thought crossed my mind, HJ. I stepped out to be sure and heard it and I lingered around until it quit. I have not noticed it again. I have not had symptoms of it happening again by detecting any loss in battery power on start up. I am having slight occasional annoyances on start up but, it was long before the LS1 e-fan install, not predictable and I have not performed a search here yet.

I like it over all but, want to see how it does in standstill traffic in July. Even before all that happens I still give it 2 thumps up!
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Post by F9K9 »

GeorgesBlazah wrote:dont get your unit wet!


A couple of questions on your VSC failure if you don't mind taking the time :!:

Did you follow Flex-a-lite's instructions and mount the unit's positive and negative connection's directly to the battery or did you vary from their instructions like Brule and I did?

What steps did you take to determine that the water crossing fried the unit? The reason why I am curious is that yesterday, I suddenly noticed my temp gauge was almost pegged and I hadn't had any problems prior to that. I had noticed recently that the fans weren't running after I got out of my rig but, the temps had been well within range. I attributed that to the outside temps and the fact that I have recently reinstalled my my 180° t-stat.

TIA

Reed

I checked the wiring last night and none of my meter readings made any sense at all. I was probably tired and darkness was falling. I checked things out again today and they were screwed up for the first half hr or so but, then everything started working again. I just wonder if something like a poor ground may have created the problem.
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Post by HenryJ »

Do you carry any spare fuses? In the event of a controller failure all that is needed is to connect two pairs of wires on the left side of the controller. Use the spades of the two fuses to join the two pairs like this...

Image

If you really want to get fancy use a switch and circuit breaker (those are what I carry)

Image

All you really need to do is bypass the controller in the event of a failure.

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Post by F9K9 »

It's still working correctly but, I have started a "Department of Redundancy Department" Wink

I found some old (unused) 100 w 2-way radio positive and negative wires (10 gauge, I'm guessing) with a heavy duty inline fuse holder in my junk and wired them directly to my battery. I soldered them to the connectors on the battery end. I found some new (around here anyway) 90 degree double crimp connections for the VSC ends. I pulled the fuse on the old hot wire and left the old "+" and "-" wires in place but, loose. My thinking is that if, I get in a similar situation I can pull the on and off override wires, yank the #9 ignition source wire and reinstall the fuse in the old hot wire and plug it in where #9 was. Unless, the VSC itself is bad, I feel it is a bulletproof way to get home.

Yes, I do carry spare fuses and that is an excellent idea to check on. I am not sure what in the heck transpired to create my failure. My thought process is to try to isolate what caused it. Nothing is more frustrating to me than to have something start working without knowing what you did to correct the malfunction. I am thinking that if I have a repeat occurrence, I can try a different ground or positive, eliminate the switches or whatever. It is a tad unsettling to have stuff fail and then to become operational without knowing where the original failure was located at.
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Post by HenryJ »

Looks like we are not the only ones with a nice fan install-

Image

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Post by F9K9 »

So, where is the photo located?
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:So, where is the photo located?
http://s-seriesforum.com/

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Post by F9K9 »

What is that thing in the lower left quadrant?

I'm not impressed with his/her wiring :roll:
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Post by 2kwik4u »

f9k9 wrote:What is that thing in the lower left quadrant?

I'm not impressed with his/her wiring :roll:
The shiny thing is what appears to be a Powerdyne supercharger.....Not sure if that is what you were refering to or not though....I don't see anything else really standing out, or looking out of place there.
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Post by F9K9 »

Thanks, I thought it was something like a supercharger :wink:
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Post by 2kwik4u »

I take that back....upon further inspection I think that is a Vortech unit.....Not 100% sure though.

I think that is "inthebatcave"'s truck from S-seriesforum.com .....If so then it is a Vortech unit.
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Post by bgs »

I've read but can't verify that Flexi was having
some probs with their VSC's. I don't know if
it's faulty components or workmanship, but this isn't
the first time I've read of a Flexi VSC prob. I like
the one Spal is making now, but the prob is that
the probe goes into the head, not the rad..Hmm.

Anyway Henry J's how to has been followed by a
lot and I'll get to mine pretty soon. I'm using a
Zirgo 3300 fan and a homemade Flexi controller
and so far it's been working pretty good. I just
wonder if not going to the more heavier duty
VSC from Flexi might not pan out better. It's rated
for between 40 & 45 amps. >

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
Notes: Variable speed controller and probe for 280/282/290 and 270 series "monster" fans. Rated 40-45 amps
So what do you folks think ?
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Post by HenryJ »

bgs wrote:I've read but can't verify that Flexi was having
some probs with their VSC's. ... what do you folks think ?
I have read a report as well, but nothing confirmed or first hand. One member here had a failure, but it may have been related to a deep water crossing.
Mine has been holding up just fine :fingers crossed:
The LS1 fans draw much less than some of the other fans being used. Taurus fans have a huge amperage draw. Perhaps a higher rated controller would be a good idea for a fan with a high load.

Personally I have had more failures from the inexpensive mechanical thermostatic controllers.

Should the VSC I am using fail, I will likely replace it with the same unit.

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Post by HenryJ »

Another option for a variable speed controller? - Spal fan controller
Spal-usa.com wrote:Fan Accessory

Part Number: FAN-PWM
Description: Automatic Programmable Fan Controller
Retail Price: $89.95

This fully waterproof controller is programmable, and will read almost all OEM and Aftermarket sensors on the market.

-Programmable to activate at any temperature
-Factory programmed to 160° Low, 200° High
-Variable speed for reduced fan noise
-Uses OEM or optional SPAL Temp Sensor
-Waterproof extruded aluminum construction
-LED indicators for High, Low, and A/C

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Post by GeorgesBlazah »

f9k9 wrote:
GeorgesBlazah wrote:dont get your unit wet!


A couple of questions on your VSC failure if you don't mind taking the time :!:

Did you follow Flex-a-lite's instructions and mount the unit's positive and negative connection's directly to the battery or did you vary from their instructions like Brule and I did?

What steps did you take to determine that the water crossing fried the unit? The reason why I am curious is that yesterday, I suddenly noticed my temp gauge was almost pegged and I hadn't had any problems prior to that. I had noticed recently that the fans weren't running after I got out of my rig but, the temps had been well within range. I attributed that to the outside temps and the fact that I have recently reinstalled my my 180° t-stat.

TIA

Reed
Im pretty sure when i went into submarine mode, the fans were on and once the water was high enough into my radiator and the fans got somewhat submerged it(not sure if im using the right terminology here) caused a big load on the electrical system to try and turn the fans over. Which then inadvertantly(sp) fried everything from working so hard.
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Post by F9K9 »

My CC has really been doing well with the warmer temperatures :D LS-1 fans working flawlessly. My 33/10.50s finally straightened out and 2 replacement US wheel Daytonas arriving tomorrow that should cure my remaining vibration.

I should have realized that all my pet waterfowls would not remain afloat forever :lol:

While performing my 3K oil change and lube (Yes, Steve, I cleaned and greased the caliber pins :wink: ) I came across this disturbing sight. It is the positive feed to the LS-1 efans from the Flex-a-lite Variable Speed Controller. I don't like the looks of it at all :!:

Being a virtual electrically challenged individual (read that as being a moron with anything electrical), I must assume there is a tremendous drag coming from the efans. The connectors and wire are what is supplied from Flex-a-lite.

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Any ideas?
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Post by top_sgt »

yes...don't let the smoke get out!!!! :lol:



just kidding!! (mechanic kinda joke!!)

might need to use a heavier gauge wire.

just what does the "discolored wire" do or go to???
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Post by HenryJ »

What gauge is that wire?
It should be 10 gauge. It does need to be replaced. Solder and heat shrink would be a good idea, since you seem to have a problem there.

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Post by top_sgt »

HenryJ wrote:What gauge is that wire?
It should be 10 gauge. It does need to be replaced. Solder and heat shrink would be a good idea, since you seem to have a problem there.

I agree!!!!!!
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Post by F9K9 »

The wire with the melting problem is the supplied wire from the contoller to the positive side of the efans. The wire below if is a 10 GA running to the battery that did not come with the controller. I cabbaged the 10 GA pos and neg wires from a 110 watt mobile transciever as a redundant wiring source if I had problems later. What is not in the picture is 12 ga wires supplied from flex-a-lite that are ready to be hooked up in case I need them. Did my altering the 12 ga pos and neg wires from the battery and using the 10 ga do that or is flex-a-lite wrong with using 12 ga wires?
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Post by HenryJ »

I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.
Dayem! All I had left on my "to do" list was my e-brakes (which I have all figured out) and those two rims.

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Post by Walt »

HenryJ wrote:I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.
This part is very important! Make sure the ground wire is the same size as the positive wire, or larger :)
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Post by F9K9 »

Walt wrote:
HenryJ wrote:I did not use any of the wiring that came with my controller.
I used 10 gauge for positive and negative both to the fans and from the battery.


This part is very important! Make sure the ground wire is the same size as the positive wire, or larger :)


Being the electrically challenged individual that I am, I have to respect Brule's, Top's and your opinion. If I had the 10 ga stuff laying around I would do it tonite. I will do it tomorrow night if, it is not raining.
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Post by HenryJ »

I just double checked mine. I do have a 12 gauge wire about 10 inches long running to #1 ground. #2, #3 and #4 are 10 gauge.
I do not remember how long the pieces of 10 gauge are to where I soldered them to the 14 gauge wires for the fans.
If you check the amperage/wire size tables 12 gauge should be overkill.
I don't know where the problem lies for sure. Perhaps the blame can be laid upon a poor connection?

I would solder the terminal end to the wire and perhaps even use a little dielectric silicone where spade meets terminal.

I will admit that I did not do this. I merely crimped my connections. I always use a crimper with an indent. The crimpers that just squeeze the connector are just not enough.
Soldering and heat shrinking takes time , but is well worth the effort for a good connection.
Seeing how you have had a problem, I would solder the connections and upsize the wiring, just for good measure.

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Post by F9K9 »

I have them soldered and heat shrinked at the point that the original efan wires meet the supplied 12 ga wire. I can try the 10 ga wire from the original efan wires but, I guess I need uninsulated connectors to solder to and then heat shrink them to prevent any shorts. I do not know of a way to use insulated connectors and be soldered. I do have a new can of liguid tape that I can try.

Sheesh, it is always a crisis :lol: Mrs Hoff number 1 always said that if I didn't have a crisis, I'd never be happy. Guess she was right :wink:
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Post by HenryJ »

Many times it is possible to use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the terminal out of the plastic for use as a uninsulated terminal.

You are right, in that there is no good way to solder an insulated terminal.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:I just double checked mine. I do have a 12 gauge wire about 10 inches long running to #1 ground. #2, #3 and #4 are 10 gauge.
I do not remember how long the pieces of 10 gauge are to where I soldered them to the 14 gauge wires for the fans.


So, you didn't run the ground the same size as the positive?
Walt wrote:This part is very important! Make sure the ground wire is the same size as the positive wire, or larger


HenryJ wrote:If you check the amperage/wire size tables 12 gauge should be overkill.
I don't know where the problem lies for sure. Perhaps the blame can be laid upon a poor connection?.........................I would solder the terminal end to the wire and perhaps even use a little dielectric silicone where spade meets terminal................Seeing how you have had a problem, I would solder the connections and upsize the wiring, just for good measure.


I replaced the 12 GA with 10 GA this evening tonight. I resoldered the 2 into 1 connections but, it is not pretty. I have never been able to solder correctly and YES, I know that you only apply the solder to what needs to be soldered and not the gun :lol: I found some Calterm Gold Plated Copper female 12-10 AWG .250" tab connectors at O'Riellys. I was able to strip enough wire insulation to solder on the spade side of the insulation and the insulation stayed intact.

I'll have to keep an eye on this and see what developes. That hot spot may have been developing for awhile but, I have been in and out of under my hood frequently the last few weeks and would hope I would have spotted that earlier.
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:...you didn't run the ground the same size as the positive?
Guess not.
Last edited by HenryJ on Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Walt »

Reed, I don't know the electrical specs on the fans and such, but in high amp/current applications, especially car audio, adequate grounding is essential. I remember one situation when a friend wanted me to look at his "system". He had a Pyramid 1500 Watt amp on an RF sub. He had 2 guage power wire from the battery, and a 3' 10 guage ground wire. His ground wire melted into, and melted itself to his ground terminal on the amp. :lol: That's just an example in an extreme case.
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Post by F9K9 »

Walt wrote:Reed, I don't know the electrical specs on the fans and such, but in high amp/current applications, especially car audio, adequate grounding is essential. I remember one situation when a friend wanted me to look at his "system". He had a Pyramid 1500 Watt amp on an RF sub. He had 2 guage power wire from the battery, and a 3' 10 guage ground wire. His ground wire melted into, and melted itself to his ground terminal on the amp. :lol: That's just an example in an extreme case.
I keep telling you guys I am a moron with electrical stuff and you keep throwing "Pyramid 1500 Watt anps on RF Sub" at me
:lol:

Here is the limit of my knowledge.....my truck is DC, my house is AC and when I don't have a good connection my "meter" does not make a noise :oops:
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Post by Walt »

f9k9 wrote:
Here is the limit of my knowledge.....my truck is DC, my house is AC and when I don't have a good connection my "meter" does not make a noise :oops:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by top_sgt »

f9k9 wrote:
Here is the limit of my knowledge.....my truck is DC, my house is AC and when I don't have a good connection my "meter" does not make a noise :oops:

i hate it when there is no noise!!!!!! :lol:
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Post by F9K9 »

I had a very close call today with my efans on a trail ride with the KY Mountain Crawlers today. We were on a very long climb (approx. 1500' in elevation) on a pretty easy trail. A yota was the guide and I must have been scoping out my laptop and whatever but, I was not paying attention to my gauges (the jeep guys behind me smelled the antifreeze for a few minutes and assumed it was them). We stopped for whatever reason and I noticed a lot of steam coming out from under my hood. I looked at the temp guage then and it was pegged! Popped the hood and all of the heep guys were trying to assist and find a blown hose. It was all steam out of the overflow tank. I lost maybe a gallon of coolant but, after adding good water, tightening up those connectors and keeping my eye on the gauge the day was not lost. I can't feel or hear any difference in the motor so, I may have dodged my stupity on this one.

Bottom line was the negative (black wire, second wire down on the left had come off.) connecter had rattled off on that climb.

Image

Make sure those connectors are very tight and not just "so, so"
Pay attention to those gauges when wheeling :wink: Mrs Hoff was not with me (she had to save lifes in the ER today) so no pics of the crew.
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Post by HenryJ »

The question came up as to which wire I tapped for the AC.
The A/C High Pressure Switch plug is marked with letters A and B. I am tapped into A

A=LT BLU A/C Request Signal

B=DK GRN/WHT A/C Request Signal

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Post by F9K9 »

2kwik4u wrote:
f9k9 wrote:What is that thing in the lower left quadrant?

I'm not impressed with his/her wiring :roll:
The shiny thing is what appears to be a Powerdyne supercharger.....Not sure if that is what you were refering to or not though....I don't see anything else really standing out, or looking out of place there.
Seems Mike forgot about this thread with his problems with his CC overheating..
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Post by HenryJ »

108° here today. The truck held 205° engine temperature with the AC on in traffic on the way home. No real load on it, but I really don't think the stock set-up would have come close to staying that good in this weather.

I did notice that the fan wires were warm the other day. I ran ten gauge from the VSC to the point where I soldered the wires from both fans together. The only way that I see to reduce the load on that wire and the controller would be to add two relays. I could have the VSC activate them and have two ten gauge wires for the fans. That might be over kill though. I think it may just be the terminal connection heating due to its limited surface area and perhaps some oxidation. I cleaned them and added a dab of dielectric silicone. If I see it as becoming a problem I may wire in the GM relays later.

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Post by F9K9 »

I put mine to the test yesterday in heavy traffic at low speeds trying to be with my wife on the 4th. All the routes that I knew about were blocked off due to Lexington, KY's "Red, White and Boom" celebration. I nervously kept my eye on the temp gauge. It was flawless but, I wasn't trailering a boat but, I did have the AC on.
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Post by SASonoma »

Hello to all, as this is my first post. I am a member of a few other S10 forums and specialize in lifted V8 S-trucks, and I work for Discount Tire Co. Here's an example of my credentials, Link .

I'm sorry I do not personally own a Crew Cab, but my sister does own and drive a ZR5 if that counts for anything. I've been a long time viewer but only now do I come up with an E-fan question. I am wondering if you guys ever found a way around having the fans come on and off constantly when the A/C is turned on with the light blue request wire. I am wondering your thoughts on this because in the winter I primarily run the defroster and foot vent setting on the HVAC controls and don't want the fan coming on if it's negative temperatures outside or if I'm on the freeway any time with the A/C on. I live in Minnesota and drive just about everywhere with that heater setting on during the winter months.

I am in the beginning stages of this LS1 e-fan idea, and have the perfect use for one. A rebuilt VortecMAX 6.0L going into the above linked truck, and if this works out, I'll use it on my sister's ZR5 too.

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Post by F9K9 »

Welcome aboard SASonoma :D I tapped into the same wire as HenryJ and do not notice the fans cycling on and off with AC. I am assuming (wrong, I know) that they stay on when the AC is on. In colder weather, I activate the "OFF" override switch and keep an eye on the temp gauge. Hopefully Brule can give you a better answer.

BTW, that's a good looking rig you have. Is the front a D44?
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Post by HenryJ »

SASonoma wrote: I am wondering your thoughts on this because in the winter I primarily run the defroster and foot vent setting on the HVAC controls and don't want the fan coming on if it's negative temperatures outside or if I'm on the freeway any time with the A/C on.
Any ideas or suggestions?
:wave: Welcome.

You could add a switch in the wire to the controller for the AC request. I usually just unplug that wire for the winter so they don't kick on with the AC. I would unplug the compressor so it does not kick on with the defrosters, but I really do need the dehumidification that it provides.

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Post by SASonoma »

I like the idea about throwing a switch in line to shut off the AC request wire plugged into the VSC, having the switch off during winter months. The trick will be remembering to flip the switch when it warms up. :wink:

It's been awhile since you guys have posted about your fan setups. Everything still running fine, cool and strong? Has there been any definite number on the CFM rating the Camaro fans pull? Also, have you guys looked at the 93-2002 Camaro fan setups? I wont get that fan, but above and below each 11.5" fan there are holes in the shrowd, I would assume to allow more airflow through the radiator during cruise, to limit fan use. Would that be a modification worth looking into doing? Also, is there any reason why an iron block, aluminum head Gen III V8 would end up overheating along with that extra capacity 4.3 radiator and LS1 fan setup, provided the t-stat is switched out for a 180*?

Thanks guys, and f9k9, those are Dana 44's front and rear, matching widths, bolt patterns and gear ratios. Disc brakes all around.
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Post by F9K9 »

SASonoma wrote:........... Everything still running fine, cool and strong?..............
For Brule, yes! I had a trip to Hot Springs, AR in August that caused me fits! I would look at the temp gauge at interstate speeds and it was going over 210°, dangerously over that. I made a stop or two to make sure that the fans were running correctly and they were. I could bring the temp down rapidly by turning off my AC. The ambient temps then were probably hovering around 100°.

I returned home and posted my dilemma. Debris in front of the AC condenser was suggested. It was clean. Debris between the condenser and extra capacity rad was suggested, checked and also clean. The Jet Performance 180° t-stat was replaced. I have been running green since year one. I had it climb in temp when I got back once but, I couldn't reproduce the problems that I had on the trip. Ambient temps have dropped so, I can't reproduce the situation.

When the original problem came up (pre LS1 fans) I thought it was the KCs restricting air but several members ruled that out. After my ZR2 meet in AR, Brule suggested that if, everything else checked out then air restriction would be something to look at for my next step. I guess I will revisit the issue in '08.

Otherwise I love the efans and recommend them.

Image

Trust me, I noticed and drooled over the discs. Very nice set up from what I could tellImage
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Post by GeorgesBlazah »

My fans are still going strong! I did have the same issue that Reed did with the connector melting. Mine melted together to the connector next to it. Good thing I caught it befor the Rausch Creek Trip I was going on. Not sure of the gauge wire I used, I woud need to double check that again.
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Post by HenryJ »

One thought here would be to use that wire to activate a couple heavy relays and have the fans draw from them rather than the controller.
The sealed GM fan relays would be my choice. I have started to do this twice and decided to stay the way I have it as everything still looks very good.

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