The adapters at quick start are the only option that I know about. The connectors are available , but would have to ordered in bulk quantities so vast that it not an option for just a few people who need them.I have the exact regulator that you posted the specs for; mine is made by TADITEL model T730. I got to thinking about the electrical connection and really would rather not splice into the factory wiring but all I can find is the connector that fits into the alternator and not the male plug that the factory connection will fit into? Got any ideas where I can find the male connector? I looked at the adaptors that quick start have but would rather not spend that kind of cash on an adaptor that I can make.
:lol: Or stumbled past That is the one in the quote above your postf9k9 wrote:I keep getting knocked ofline due to a storm but, here is a PDF cross reference I stumbled upon for regulators
HenryJ wrote::lol: Or stumbled past That is the one in the quote above your postf9k9 wrote:I keep getting knocked ofline due to a storm but, here is a PDF cross reference I stumbled upon for regulators
It does look like the T730 is the right regulator listed there. The T437 is the one to avoid.
HenryJ wrote:It does look like the T730 is the right regulator listed there. The T437 is the one to avoid.
That T437 is the same as the D411 I tried. It heated the alternator terribly and will not work with the PCM.
Randy of NQS, INC wrote:Subject: Re: Fw: Invoice No. 5837
The voltage regulator is the T437 by Taditel
Exactly how will it cause a heat related issue?
This is the regulator that Taditel told us to use in place of your CS-130d voltage regulator.
I've been working with auto electric for over 30 years and I still learn something new everyday. We have been using the T437 for years in the CS-144 replacing the CS-130D with the regulator you have. Your vehicle comes with the Transpo D748 which is a Taditel T761, they it has a 14.8 volt set point and a 2.5 second delay with LRC.
The T730 you mention has a 10 second delay which is more likely to send the wrong signal to your vehicles computer considering your original voltage regulator uses a 2.5 second delay.
About 3 years ago we didn't know which regulator to use so we called the experts at Taditel. They told us that they use a combo circuit that will accommodate both the I and F circuits and that the internal circuit components on the T437 are the same as the T761, the only difference is that the outside shell's shape is.
Maybe you should call Taditel's tech dept. and if you get different info than what I said above, please let me know right away. I can get you whatever regulator you want.
I would think so, but I haven't tried that.crew cab sonoma wrote:if i wanted to install a bigger alt. on my 2000 ext. cab, would ordering a 130-145A from the same year full size truck work?
That may be a bit optimistic. I found it to produce less than 60 amps when hot at idle speeds.killian96ss wrote:The stock alternator is 80 amps @ idle and 105 amps @ cruise speed.
crew cab sonoma wrote:is there any other difference in these two versions of alternators, such as anything internal?
Randy wrote:Yes, I went through the forum a bit & will go through it more later, I just wanted to get you the phone number for Taditel, it's xxx-xxx-xxxx, I spoke with Jim xxxxx.
I was told that the insides of the T-437 which we use, are the same as the T-761 (Transpo D478), the type in your alternator.
The only difference is that the regulator in your alternator takes a plug shape that is more rounded on the ends and fits the CS-130D alternator. The T-437 takes a rectangle shaped plug and fits into the CS-121, CS-130 and CS-144 alternators. We then use our D1-W1206 wiring harness adapter to go from the CS-130D plug to the CS-130/144 plug to fit into the alternator.
If you find out anything different from Taditel I would like to know right away. In the past we installed the CS-130D regulator into the CS-144 case. We had to modify the CS-130D regulator and machine the CS-144 case to get the CS-130D regulator to fit.
Also I noticed in the forum some talk about lights, winching and low end output of alternators. We are working on a CS-144 that will produce 300 amps, and hold up, plus a new stator that will produce more power at idle or low engine speeds.
HenryJ wrote:That is just nuts. You would think the longer belt would cost more ................................................
The answer is just a few posts up from this one - LINKcrew cab sonoma wrote:...whats the purpose of the second wire on the CC?
Those alternators may be a good option. I did not test them as good cores were not readily available.crew cab sonoma wrote:what about the "AD-244" style alts.?
The 2000 and earlier may not need it. For 2001-up the PCM uses this interface to influence the regulator.crew cab sonoma wrote:an ign. signal? like the older SI style alts used? so why would the 2000 truck not need it? ....
HenryJ wrote:...........So far this looks like a better alternative for KISS.
Off the shelf , new, lifetime warranty, readily available...............
Pretty much all have gone to sealed bearings. The old CS alternators are about the last of the old needle bearing cases.F9K9 wrote:Does it have your preference for bearings?
Mine was at 50% on the brushes in the fourth year. That could be what is happening. The tension is reduced on the brushes and you are getting some intermittent floating?adrenalnjunky wrote:my bigger concern is that the noise will come and go...
There has to be a reason that they went to so much trouble to ventilate the case on this design. The Bosch unit and the stock CS130D have the same sort of ventilated case. I think it is an advantage.HenryJ wrote:...If the CS144 would cooperate with the PCM, and run cool enough, it would be a nice option. I like the dual fans , and potential for better cooling that the CS130D case incorporates.
HenryJ wrote:...Keep in mind that you are not the only one drowning ducks around here.
Thus far the simple solution seems to be the readily available, over the counter ,late model fullsize high output AD244 alternator. You can pick one up locally anywhere and it is plug-n-play.
[/url]I did add a 4 gauge wire from the alternator. Both positive and negative just to make sure, but I do feel the stock stuff is adequate. It is twice the size of older models.HenryJ wrote: I checked things out and I am satisfied with the stock wiring. The wire from the alternator appears to be 6 or 8 gauge. This should handle up to 200 amps pretty easily.
The battery cables are only the next size larger, so if I were to upsize the alternator wire , then upsizing the battery cables would be next.
Having looked things over I think that it will be OK. There are good grounds to the engine and frame. Their size looks OK too.
HenryJ wrote: I bought a new NAPA 130 amp alternator. It is NAPA part number 1N-4801 , NNE new alternator $189 and has a lifetime warranty...For an application I used a 2001 1500 Suburban with the 5.3L and high output alternator...The belt I used is longer than stock. AC Delco part # 6K960 (96" six groove belt)
NAPA Online wrote:Item#: NNE1N4801
tax and shipping not included
Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.
Features & Benefits:Premium Alternator With 100% New Component Parts; Electronics - Heavy Duty Rectifiers With 50 Amp Rated Diodes For Longest Service Life; Bearings - High Temperature Grease & Seals; Computer Tested Und
Amp Rating:130 Amps
Type of Pulley:6 Grooves
Type of Regulator:INT
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