overhead console w/ trip computer

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T-bone02
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overhead console w/ trip computer

Post by T-bone02 »

previously before my crew I had a 98 blazer with the overhead compass. However, since it was an LT model the console not only had the compass display, it also had selections for average mpg, distance till empty, average speed, fuel used, ect. Is I possible to get our overhead consoles to do these calculations. Maybe we don't have the same computers ? This would be a cool feature, I miss it!!

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Post by 04crewvt »

Sorry, Our crews use the more basic console. I think you would have to find the computer from a Blazer and replace the stock one. Since our front harnesses seem to be from the Blazers you might get lucky and have the proper wiring in the console connector but I would bet you would have to find and install any other sensors it needs to work.
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Post by HenryJ »

Check ZR2.com for more information. I think you need the homelink added to the console and wiring to the BCM. As was said, the wiring may be there?

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Post by rlith »

No, all that simply needs to be done is replace the display itself with the trip/temp/compass/miledge etc display. 2 Additional wires will need to be added. 1 for RAD power and 1 to Serial data (which you can pick up behind the radio or behind the ALDL) This appies to any truck from 96 to current. The BCM is not involved with the overhead display

Let me know and I will post the pin outs you will need.
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Re: overhead console

Post by barch97 »

T-bone02 wrote:previously before my crew I had a 98 blazer with the overhead compass. However, since it was an LT model the console not only had the compass display, it also had selections for average mpg, distance till empty, average speed, fuel used, ect. Is I possible to get our overhead consoles to do these calculations. Maybe we don't have the same computers ? This would be a cool feature, I miss it!!
I don't know if this helps any but my wife's '01 Blazer LT does not have any of the additional features you describe. Her OH console is identical to my CC.
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Post by 24digger »

I picked up one of those consoles with homelink awhile back on ebay. rlith could you post those pins I would like to see if I could get this thing working.
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Post by HenryJ »

How do you tell the difference between between the display with and without the trip functions? Other than the trip display having a 9 pin connector and the one without having a 6 pin connector.
Is there a obvious difference in the visible parts? Maybe extra buttons?

It was mentioned that connecting to the entertainment and comfort serial data pin on the radio would be needed? I would think since the display lists a connection to the trip computer/nav class 2 serial data that you would need to connect to the BCM Class 2 Serial Data.

Are the two one in the same? I assume a difference.

It is also mentioned that the Homelink is not needed. Is it just a garage door opener? What else does it do? EDIT: HomeLink® Transceiver/Garage Door Opener Transmitter. Guess it is just a garage door opener.

Arisa on ZR2.com builds harnesses and has a supply of consoles. Here is the thread - OH consoles and wiring harnesses...
HenryJ wrote:Are you going to have a trip computer display available?

I already have the overhead console without trip functions, but would like to add the trip computer.
How about a wiring harness with the two extra wires and correct connectors and a display with the trip functions? Would that be a possibility?

I would even be willing to return my display w/o trip so that your console would not be missing a display for future sale.
Arisa wrote:Henry,

I'll know more tomorrow or Tuesday, but my gut says yes. About the harness, I've already been contacted about that by another member and it's a go I just need to figure out a price and exactly what I need to make and how to explain it properly.
Last edited by HenryJ on Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by 24digger »

The consoles with the trip computer have a mode button and the regular temperature consoles just have an on/off button.

Thanks for the info and link I will keep an eye on both theads.
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Post by S10CREW01 »

I'm interested in a group perchase if one starts on this sight....
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Post by F9K9 »

24digger wrote:The consoles with the trip computer have a mode button and the regular temperature consoles just have an on/off button.

Thanks for the info and link I will keep an eye on both theads.
Whoa :shock: We can toggle back and forth from metric to SAE so, there is more than an "on/off" button.
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Post by HenryJ »

S10CREW01 wrote:I'm interested in a group perchase if one starts on this sight....
Hopefully Neal (Arisa) will join here soon. I don't know what can be offered in the way of a group purchase though. The number of displays with the trip functions may be limited.

I guess I need to find a part number and price from GM.
GMpartsdirect.com wrote:Display:

GM PART # 12376611
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
GM LIST: $274.00
OUR PRICE: $191.80
DESCRIPTION: COMPASS

Harness:

GM PART # 12102629
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
GM LIST: $74.27
OUR PRICE: $37.14
DESCRIPTION: CONNECTOR
A used display depending upon condition should run 1/4 to 1/2 of new price. I have picked up complete consoles for $25. We only need the 9 pin connector and two wires so the harness part would probably be signifigantly cheaper to build.

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Post by 24digger »

f9k9 wrote:
24digger wrote:The consoles with the trip computer have a mode button and the regular temperature consoles just have an on/off button.

Thanks for the info and link I will keep an eye on both theads.
Whoa :shock: We can toggle back and forth from metric to SAE so, there is more than an "on/off" button.
:shock: OMG you mean we have more functions :lol: Sorry I forgot about that button :thumb:
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Post by HenryJ »

Well I did a little more investigation. The display with the trip functions does not have a third button, as I thought. The "on/off" button is replaced with a "mode" button.

Armed with this information and the fact that Bravadas are the most likely donors , I ventured to the salvage yard.

Now that I know what I am looking for it was easy to located a '98 Bravada with the trip display. The console included all the wiring and a homelink for $35.
It is a real pain to remove all the wiring. The harness plugs in just forward of the in dash fuse panel.
While removing the complete harness I found it included the wiring to an auto dimmable rearview mirror. So I grabbed that to for $5.
The harness also includes the wiring to the lighted vanity mirrors in the visors. The Bravada has the lighted visors on both sides just like mine, but it also includes a second set of smaller visors for when you move the main visor to the side. That looks like a nice option as well. The passenger side mirror cover was broken on mine, so... :mg: $20 for the pair of visors.


All together a pretty good run. $60 spent and a full weekend worth of modding ahead :thumb:

Now to gather "the rest of the story..."

FYI, the lense is not attached to the display. If you find a used one that is scratched, don't worry. You can reuse your stock one. The only difference is the lettering on the button and the buttons can be switched if needed.

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Post by 24digger »

Very good bargain on all those items. There's no way that stuff could be had for that price around here. Most won't even let you go out and get stuff anymore. :(
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Post by HenryJ »

Tom Masterson wrote:I recently installed an overhead console to my 02 Blazer-X with the Temp/Compass computer and wondered if it was possible to upgrade to the full trip computer. I had one of these computers in my 2000 Astrovan and missed it when I went to the Blazer. As luck would have it, I found the full trip computer module (a >$350 dealer special order) on ebay and won it with a $15+ship bid!!! For this price I took a chance I'd be out of luck, so off I went to research.

I was unable to find any wiring info on the trip computer in my Chilton's manual, so I signed-up with Alldata ($25) and started checking wiring and connector diagrams. It turns out doing the trip computer is a piece of cake! it only takes two more wires with only one needed to be fished to the dashboard. The second taps into the constantly hot wire of the console - the orange one(s).

The key, on this year anyway, is the computer gets its data from the serial data bus which connects various components to the main computer. The most convienent access to this system is at the Data Link Connector under the driver's side of the dash. This is the plug a tech would attach his code reader to. On my truck's connector, starting on the top left counting accross to the right, it is pin number 2 - with a purple wire going to it. I just unscrewed the connector and spliced in the purple wire.

The other key is the connectors that plug into the console computer. On the temp/compass its a 6 pin connector and the trip has a 9 pin connector. The great thing is the pinout is the same for the first 6 pins! Because I couldn't get the 9 pin connector - dealer wants $66 for a connector pigtail!!!! I just used the 6 pin after shaving off the one "ear" that would prevent it from plugging into the 9 pin socket. Pin 7 on the computer isn't used. Pin 8 taps the orange hot wire in the console and pin 9 is a new wire to the Data Link connector under the dash. For about an hour's extra work I have Average fuel economy, instant fuel economy, range and average speed along with temp and compass VERY COOL!!! I backed out of the driveway as a test, then back in... hummm 2MPGs. I then jumped out danced a jig and highfived the air ( I was alone ok?) I was so happy with the results.

My console is out of a '99 and I have NO idea what year the computer is out of so I suspect this is do-able for just about any late model vehicle that had this computer as an option. The old computer slides right out after removing the lens/button face and the trip computer slides right in. The only "nit" I have to yet pick is the buttons are the wrong ones now. Instead of US/MET and ON/OFF, the buttons should be US/MET and MODE, but this is a $35 dealer order. unless I can find one in a junkyard this may stay a while.

Hope this helps others considering this mod.

And here is a link where I uploaded the overhead trip computer plug.: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/ ... cWtrip.gif

Here's the trip/compass computer plug just for reference: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/ ... mptemp.gif

NOTE! On the plug pinout for the trip computer pin #15 Trip computer class 2 serial data wire color is listed as YELLOW. This is the color on the FACTORY wiring harness that plugs into the overhead unit. For those of us who are making our own wiring this is the wire that goes to the PURPLE wire on DATA LINK CONNECTOR shown here: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/ ... nector.gif

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!! This is information that I used to wire my 2002, I can't guarantee it works with other years. My experience is these things don't change much, if any, between similar model years. My computer is out of an unkown year and works fine in my '02

Hope this helps. Take your time and double check your wiring. It took me an afternoon to wire and install my console initially, and another hour and a half to fish a new wire, make connecotrs and install the new computer. If you are just upgrading the computer it should be a piece of cake because the first 6 pins are the same. Pin #7 goes to the orange wire of the console, pin#8 is nothing, and pin#9 is the new wire fished to the PURPLE WIRE on the DATA LINK CONNECTOR.

I actually added a Homelink unit to my console and it works slick. My wife and daughter both use regular garage door openers and my Homelink unit works fine with them. I wonder if your opener may use rolling codes so you can only get one Homelink unit to syc with the opener. Humm, dunno.

It would be worth a e-mail to Homelink. Here's their website http://www.homelink.com/home/home.tml

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Post by HenryJ »

After following the above Homelink link I found that it is compatable with X-10. I have many lights in the house controlled with X-10.
I guess I'll be finding out what is needed to properly program the Homelink to operate them, and perhaps even my remote winch lighting.

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Post by Blaze One »

hmmm... this is very interesting , i already have the compass/temp display in my console of my 99'blazer , so basically all i would need to do is find a console with the extra options ( fuel mpg etc. ) and swap the computers behind the lense and attach the 2 needed wires ( the purple wire and the orange power wire ) the tricky part would be "threading" the purple wire down to the plug under the dash(the plug that mechanics plug into to check your codes right ? ) .

How accurate are the MPG computers anyway ? Just as acurate as our 100% acurate fuel gauges ..LOL !
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Post by HenryJ »

Blaze One wrote:...all i would need to do is find a console with the extra options ( fuel mpg etc. ) and swap the computers behind the lense and attach the 2 needed wires ...
That may be the case. I am hoping that the required wires are already in the connection forward of the fuse panel. If that is the case it may be possible to insert the needed connections there and save tapping the OBDII port wiring.

It may be as simple as pulling the a-pillar cover, cluster surround, light switch and fuse panel. I did say simple , not easy :mg:
It will be interesting to see what happens.

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Post by Arisa »

HenryJ wrote:Hopefully Neal (Arisa) will join here soon.
Yea I'm here. Please no matter what any of you do, don't buy from GMpartsdirect. I say that from talking to a LOT of people that have been mislead by them (including myself). I have wholesale accounts set up with most of the GM dealers. I found out about GMpartsdirect & was like WOW they blow my dealer pricing out of the water. What you don't see are the packaging changes and the shipping charges. That is where they rape you. I got two sway bars from them. $10.00 more in the end than I could have done at the dealership. I figured it was because they were bulky items. Nope tried it with some smaller interior parts....same thing. The other people I have talked to echo my experences. All I use them for is a PN locator when I can't find it elsewhere or need it that moment.

OK what questions need answering or is it all under control here :P

BTW that's a great price on a console and wiring! It's easier to pick up the class 2 serial line at the bus connector that is taped to the OBDII wiring about 8"-10" behind the connector. It keeps confusion down about wire colors. Purple is also used for the dimmer signals up top side.
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Post by F9K9 »

Firstl, welcome to the forum. Second, thanks for the advice with this particular mod and the heads up about GMparts direct!
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Post by Arisa »

f9k9 wrote:Firstl, welcome to the forum. Second, thanks for the advice with this particular mod and the heads up about GMparts direct!
Thanks !

& your more than welcome. I'm just trying to help out other auto enthusiasts !!!
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Post by HenryJ »

I primarily use GMpartsdirect.com for pricing. Most times my local dealer will come real close if I use GMpartsdirect.com to keep them honest :mg:

Thanks for taking the time to join us. I'm sure there will be questions as I get a little further into this :thumb:

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Post by border man »

I have a 9 pin connector harness that plugs in behind the dash fuse panel, that includes the leads for both lighted vanities if anyone is interested. I found it at a junk yard and got it to hook up my overhead console. Turns out, my truck is a conversion from an ext cab to crewcab so the main harness is different(no plug for the console0 :( . I need to run all new wires from the top and splice them in where needed.
[size=75]I didn't do it, it was already like that when I got it.[/size]
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Post by Arisa »

border man wrote: I need to run all new wires from the top and splice them in where needed.
No splicing !!! That's what my harness does !!!! Splicing is a bad thing ! :lol:
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Post by border man »

Arisa wrote:
border man wrote: I need to run all new wires from the top and splice them in where needed.
No splicing !!! That's what my harness does !!!! Splicing is a bad thing ! :lol:
You do understand that i have nowhere to connect into behind the dash?? My truck came with no overhead console. I bought a used one from another member, and found the harness on a 4 door blazer. When I tried to hook it up, I found out that the 2door and ext cab trucks have a totally diffirent harness with no connector for the overhead display. I you have something available that makes it effortless, by all means I'll be interested if economical :) Otherwise, I have some rudementary instructions for wiring it up with splices. :shock:
[size=75]I didn't do it, it was already like that when I got it.[/size]
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Post by Arisa »

My full harness is design for regular and extended cab trucks without OH consoles. DO you have a RDS radio ? Better quesion what year is your truck? I know I can make you a plug and play complete harness !
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Post by border man »

I have a 2000 Sonoma with no RDS. Also, I dont have the temp sensor, and the console I have is the standard one(comp/temp)
[size=75]I didn't do it, it was already like that when I got it.[/size]
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Post by Arisa »

border man wrote:I have a 2000 Sonoma with no RDS. Also, I dont have the temp sensor, and the console I have is the standard one(comp/temp)
Cake walk bro! I have uploaded the instructions to a web site. I should have a link later tonight or tomorrow and I'll let you know what it is. I designed the harness on my 00' ZR2 so I know it will work with your truck. I can get the sensor for you. My pricing in NC was just under $20.00 but I'll let you know!
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Post by HenryJ »

Could we upload those to our website too?

I have seen the instructions links in other forums, all the links were broken and files unavailable. Here at least we would know that they will remain available as long as the forum exists.

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Post by Arisa »

Sure PM me an FTP location & I'll be glad to upload it. I can't email it. It's 12 meg right now and Comcast and Gmail both crap out ! :D
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Post by HenryJ »

Wow, it is a big file.
I am sorry I do not have publicy available FTP access.
I assume it is still in a .PDF format. I really would like to get my hands on it and convert it to html. That would make a nice small package for viewing on the internet.

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Post by HenryJ »

Thanks!

I converted it to html and added it to our modifications page - Overhead Console Wiring Harness Instructions

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Post by HenryJ »

INSTALLED!
Took about three or four hours at a leisurely pace.
It is indeed plug-n-play. We do have the needed connections already in there. Everything appears to work. The green light on the auto dim mirror illuminates. The trip computer shows gallons used, range, avg mpg, inst mpg, avg speed. I transferred some fuel from an auxiliary tank and the range did increase. The gallons used will be cool since I will be able to use it as a combined gauge of fuel for all three tanks. Kind of like a trip meter for fuel :mg:

I had to set the compass variance for my area, and drive in circles to calibrate it.

The removal and installation of the harness was much easier this time. It may just have been the prior experience in removing the Bravada parts. What ever it was things went smoothly.

Now I have a couple things to figure out.
One is the Homelink. When installing it I just moved the terminals from my console harness to the Homelink connector and spliced two wires into the harness. My harness had been modified for the video entertainment system, so this seemed the easiest method. Now I need to read up on programming it for my needs.

Next is that little box over the drivers door. It almost looks like a speaker, or sensor of some sort. :lol: I installed it and don't even know what it is or does :lol:

Here are some pictures:

This is the two harnesses
Image

The upper one is the stock harness, and the lower one is the Bravada harness.

Image Those are the two consoles. I pulled the pins and moved the connector to my console.

Image

You can see there was some disassembly required.

Image

Everything removed ready to swap.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by HenryJ »

C209 (Dome harness to body harness) is the connection for the harness. It just below the base of the A post. By taking loose the fuse assembly and raising it there is room to reach up through from the opening behind the parking brake release in through the dash. A screwdriver inserted through the side of the dash may assist in guiding the connector for removal and installation.

The body harness connector is oriented on it's right side and lettered J-S on the right from the top down. H-A is the left or bottom row.

A - RAP fuse supply voltage - DK GRN
B - Backup lamps supply voltage - LT GRN
C - Trip Computer/NAV class 2 serial data - YEL
D - inside air temperature sensor signal (auto AC) - DK GRN
E - Instrument panel lamps fuse supply voltage - GRY
F - Ground - BLK/WHT
G - Outside air temperature sensor signal - LT GRN/BLK
H - Ground - BLK

J - Sensor return (auto AC) - BLK
K - Courtesy lamp supply voltage - ORN
L - Courtesy lamp switch signal - WHT
M - LED dimming signal - PPL/WHT
N - Vehicle speed signal - DK GRN/WHT
P - RAP Fuse supply voltage - DK GRN
R - Battery positive voltage - ORN
S - Ignition 3 voltage - BRN

All color remain the same through this connection.

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Post by HenryJ »

It looks as if the "speaker looking thing" that I installed is the inside temperature sensor for the auto climate controls.

Our stock harness includes the connector for this sensor.

This bears further research. The three knob temperature control may fit in the dash, but I wonder if all the needed connections are there as well , or if there are other needed components?
I know we have the "hot foot" slave. Perhaps adding the auto climate controls might be another "hot foot fix" ?

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Post by 24digger »

HenryJ did you have to do anything under the hood with that harness? I think I'm going harness shopping this weekend :D
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Post by HenryJ »

24digger wrote:HenryJ did you have to do anything under the hood with that harness?
Nope. I just connected the Bravada harness to my C209 connector.

Simple swap. Everything we need is already in the main harness from that point.

Worst case scenario, order a new harness from GM for $38 and find a used display.
I could see a swap for under $100 pretty realistic.

If you do not add the auto dim mirror there will be extra wires for that.
Also I do not know if the connector for the dome lighting will be correct. If it is indeed different, as mine was for connecting the homelink, it is an easy pin swap to use your stock connector and eliminate the wire for the homelink.

Just tried out the Homelink. I easily programmed to operate the lights in my house via X-10. Sadly it appears that the remote controlled lights for the winch are not compatible :( It is fun though :D

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Post by HenryJ »

I was able to modify the homelink module to add a fourth button to activate my winch lights :mg: Now it has all that I need :thumb:

Image

I think Arisa has a trip/homelink console. Someone needs to snag it for the upgrade. Heck you could probably swap out your stock display and remote door. Then sell the console for the price of the harness you need to complete the upgrade.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by Blaze One »

Has anyone tested the acuracy of these systems yet ?
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Post by HenryJ »

Blaze One wrote:Has anyone tested the acuracy of these systems yet ?
I'll let you know for sure in a month or so.
So far it looks very good. Average mpg shows 15.8-16.1 which is right on for my normal city mileage. On the highway Instant fuel mileage shows 20-22 mpg which is what I normally get. The temperature reads real close to the other thermometers that I have outside.
I would say it is going to be pretty darn close in all respects.

The "ICE" warning is much better on this display. It is much more like the early Chevrolet displays in that the temperature reading is temporarily replaced with the word "ICE" in large letters periodically, instead of the tiny "ice" under the "F" in the display, and shutting off soon after starting.

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Post by 24digger »

OK, I stand corrected I said that I couldn't get a good deal on stuff around here, got me a harness and auto dimming mirror $20. Even picked up a harness for my 95. I plan on putting the console from the crew in it someday. Don't know when I'll get to the harness on the crew pretty cool around here right now.
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Post by HenryJ »

24digger wrote:... Even picked up a harness for my 95. I plan on putting the console from the crew in it someday...
Sounds like you did good! The wires for the pick ups differ at the C209 connector. While the plug is the same, some of the wires are different or non existent.

These are the pin assignments for 2001 pick-ups:

A - not used
B - not used
C - Ground - BLK
D - not used
E - CHMSL Supply voltage - LT BLU
F - Rear speaker output - LT BLU
G - Right rear speaker output - DK BLU
H - Speaker return , Left rear - Yel

J - Left rear speaker output - BRN
K - same as utility
L - Same as utility
M - not used
N - not used
P - not used
R - same as utility
S - not used


As you can see the swap will not be as simple. The best option would be to contact Neal for a pick-up harness. He will probably know the differences for a '95 as well.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Feb 25, 2006 2:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by 24digger »

Thanks for the info on the plugs the 95 wasn't high on my list like the crew is.

By the way how do you get the mirror off of the mounting block, the one I picked up today was already broke of the glass. Looks like it snaps out but I don't want to break the bracket.
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Post by HenryJ »

24digger wrote:...how do you get the mirror off of the mounting block, the one I picked up today was already broke of the glass. Looks like it snaps out but I don't want to break the bracket.
GM data wrote:# Insert a small, flat-bladed tool into the slot from the bottom.
# Press slightly in order to release the tab.
# Slide the mirror off of the support.
I didn't read that first. I did slide a small screw driver up from underneath to release the spring clip while pulling upward. Get a good grip on the mirror. Mine ended up in the back seat! I thought for sure I was going to hear the sound of the rear window shattering. I wasn't worried about the mirror, but thankfully it was not broken either.

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Post by Arisa »

Sounds like you guys have everything under control. I'm going to stop watching this thread. If you need me I'll be checking in on ZR2.com.

Later bros and keep up the good work !!!!
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Post by HenryJ »

Arisa wrote:...If you need me I'll be checking in on ZR2.com.

Later bros and keep up the good work !!!!
Thanks! Is the best method of contact your email? Nwhitaker@AstoneFabricators.com , ArisaLT4@hotmail.com or NWhitaker@comcast.net

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Post by HenryJ »

This may be helpful - Click here for scott750's BCM wiring diagram (word document file)
scott750 wrote:...I have a 12 page Word Document file that details every wiring diagram from the BCM to the radio to the little temperature sensor. It also has the variance maps, homelink programming procedures, everything I used to install the thing...

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Post by 24digger »

Ok, I guess I got the wrong harness they said it was a 2000 blazer but it had short console in it but it was already gone. Anyway where it plugs into the C209 connector it has another 2 wire connector that the crew doesn't have.
Image

Here where I have circled the wire are pink and grey and go to the console in the computer plug. Not sure which pin there in I'll have to go look here in a bit.

Think they could be inserted into the C209 connector?
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Post by 24digger »

Never mind went out to take a pic of plug and realized that it didn't go to the console and remembered the salvage yard blazer had a power sunroof and that's what those wires were for. :bonk: :lol:

I'm beginning to wonder about my memory sometimes :crazy:
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Post by 24digger »

Ok got it all done I feel for anyone who does this. Pretty tuff to do but not to bad if you do like Henryj said just take your time. Definetly a cool mod.

But I do have a problem the extra plug that I had was for the auto dim mirror :(

see pics below
Image

Image

Unfortunately I cut it loose from the harness. I don't think it would be that difficult to fix the green, dark grey and brown wires. It's the pink and light grey wires that I don't know what they went to.

Brown went to S on the connector
Green went to B on the connector
Dark Grey went to not sure it didn't go all the way down through to the connector. So not sure exactly what it tied into.

Henryj yours didn't have an extra plug for your auto dim mirror?
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Post by HenryJ »

If that is the C209 connector, no mine did not have that extra plug. Only the C209.

The auto dim mirror for mine is included in that one connection.

Those wires that are cut loose. Are those to the mirror itself? I have only pins 1, 2, and 3 used.

#1 - BRN
#2 - BLK
#3 - GRN

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Post by HenryJ »

I did a little more research. You may have the Inside Rear View Mirror (w/Light Sensitive and Reading Lamps)
Here is the wiring for that:

1 - BRN - Fuse Output - Ignition 3 - Type III Fuse

2 - BLK - Ground

3 - LT GRN - Fuse Output - Backup Lamps - Type III Fuse

4 - GRA - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Signal - Outside

5 - PNK - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Return - Outside

6 - WHT - Courtesy Lamp Output

7 - ORN - Electronic Control Unit Output - 12 Volt

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Post by 24digger »

The mirror actually has 5 wires going to it. The pink and dark grey that are separate as seen in first pic. Brown, light grey and the black tied in somewhere in the middle of the harness. It does not have map lights I do believe it does have the light sensor, looks like it has one in the front and the rear.
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Post by HenryJ »

You only need the first three for it to work. I would leave the others disconnected as they may be for the map lighting?

It is worth a try?

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Post by SONOMA915 »

Hey HJ, can you post some pics of how to remove the overhead console? If not can you give the location of the bolt/screws that hold it up? Thanks.
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Post by HenryJ »

SONOMA915 wrote:...can you post some pics of how to remove the overhead console? If not can you give the location of the bolt/screws that hold it up?
There are three screws that attach it to the roof. One at the front and two under the lense of the dome light. Gently pry off the dome light cover and you'll see them.

Do NOT follow the GM data instructions. The picture does show the two rear screws, but only says to remove the front screw and pry downward. That will result in a broken console.

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Post by SONOMA915 »

Thanks, I will be doing this mod pending the end of the item I'm bidding on. :)
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Post by T-bone02 »

Hey guys, I understand everything except the connection behing the dash. Does the plug connector at the bottom of the pics plug in behind the a-piller, or under the dash at the connector for the hpIII programmers?
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Post by HenryJ »

T-bone02 wrote:Hey guys, I understand everything except the connection behing the dash. Does the plug connector at the bottom of the pics plug in behind the a-piller, or under the dash at the connector for the hpIII programmers?
The C209 (Dome harness to body harness connector) is the connection for the harness. It just below the base of the A post and forward of the interior fuse box. It is the big plug at the bottom of those pictures.

The connection under the dash is the OBDII port. That is where the HPPIII , or a diagnostic scanner plugs in temporarily.

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Post by F9K9 »

SONOMA915 wrote:Thanks, I will be doing this mod pending the end of the item I'm bidding on. :)
What is your Ebay name? I have totally lost my will :lol:

NevermindImageI won't bid against a member :) I found my original find on Ebay and thought it was a different console. I wouldn't undercut you! Good Luck!
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Post by SONOMA915 »

Thanks man, I didnt want to have to go and hunt you down. J/K :)
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Post by SONOMA915 »

I won my ebay auction from S-10WAREHOUSE. All together it was about $64.00, including the harness and shipping.
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Post by HenryJ »

SONOMA915 wrote:I won my ebay auction from S-10WAREHOUSE. All together it was about $64.00, including the harness and shipping.
That is a good deal! You will be very happy. Let us know how the install goes :thumb:

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Post by SONOMA915 »

Will do. If anyone else is looking to do this I would check S-10 Warehouse, they had about four up for auction.
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Post by HenryJ »

The trip display out of the Astro vans appears to be the same. One showed up at the local salvage yard. This one did have the mode button. I am not sure how many received the trip display.
If you are searching add that one to the list of vehicles to check.

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Post by SONOMA915 »

I recieved my console and harness today. It came out of a 2000 Blazer with On Star. Do I Have to drop the whole headliner or just the front to install the harness?
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Post by HenryJ »

Just the front. Look at my pictures in the above post.
Both a pillar covers, visors, overhead console, and the dash torn to pieces. Have fun! :thumb:

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Post by SONOMA915 »

I thought so. Thanks.
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Post by SONOMA915 »

Got everything in and working, the only thing I dont understand in the range. I filled up the tank and it said I had like 340 miles, I know that isnt right. I have reset the other things, just cant figure out the range. Any suggestions? Is everyone else experiencing this?
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Post by HenryJ »

Range is based upon the mileage and the gallons of fuel remaining.
18 gallons of fuel and 19mpg would get you that range.
It may drop as your mileage decreases.

Came across this as some food for thought:
01BlaZer2 wrote:as an FYI for everyone i am running 32's and thought about this mod. My speedo is corected through an HPP3 and i asked Arisa if he knew if the HPP3 would also correct the OHC. He Replyed saying that if it corrects the PCM its should leave an accurate OHC reading I contacted Hupertech on this and they replyed with this.
On vehicles that come from the factory with the electronic mileage indicators our programming will inadvertently cause it to be inaccurate. This is true with any after market tuning product. Thanks

Jim
I don't know if the HPPIII affects it or not. It would be worth some investigation though.

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trip reads - -

Post by mulrich »

I upgraded to the trip computer and everything works fine for the first 10 seconds after the key is switched on then the temp and fuel information goes to - - and stays like that unless you switch off the key and then back on. Please help.
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Post by HenryJ »

Does it do this while moving? Did you use the factory harness?
Sounds like a VSS problem. The temp and trip readings need input from the vehicle speed sensor to give readings.

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oh help

Post by mulrich »

yes it does this while moving and when parked, the blazer is a 98 and the console is from a 97 maybe the sensors are different. and while hooking it up the diagram for the stock 6 pin harness was right but the 9 pin colors were off so i hooked it up using pin location instead of wire color. i think all the wires are right because the temp and mileage will display when the key is first turned on. chevy dealer says it may need to be reprogramed but they want 65.00 to look at it and 75.00 an hour to fix it. does anyone know anything about reprograming it?