Wireless control lighting

Modified and aftermarket systems, lights, wiring, etc.

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HenryJ
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Wireless control lighting

Post by HenryJ »

Funny how following another's mod leads toward one of your own.

I came across these wireless controllers from 2Kool Technologies while researching options for safari rack lighting.
I found it a deal too good to pass up. They arrived quickly and look pretty good. I like the fact that they are programmable for the button you choose.

I already have some lights around, so now I just need to decide how I want to recess them into the cargo box.

The same thread inspired some thought about a set of contacts on the bow for a no hassle connection. One wire run to the bow is all that will be required. With the design of the Bravada bows it should be easy to conceal the wires for the ground and power.

Using the wireless control the box will be easily removable and also allow remote operation at camp. With the wireless controller mounted in the cargo box the range should be very good :mg: This will also allow me to install a small interior light inside the box. That really will be handy as I always seem to be loading and unloading after dark.

This is all still in the gathering and planning stages, but likely to be done sometime between Christmas and the New Year.

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Post by rlrnr53 »

Sounds like a good Idea. Hope every thing goes as you plan.
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Post by F9K9 »

It does sound like an excellent idea. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all will come together. I am thinking that you may lose some space inside the cargo box but, knowing you it will be hardly noticeable. :wink:
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Post by ludwis »

Interesting...looks like the modules from these guys. I used the same key fobs with different receivers in the past for small projects. They seem to work well enough :)

http://www.linxtechnologies.com/
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Post by HenryJ »

Got a little start today-
Image Image

I used some brass screw rivets soldered to a terminal end attached to a 12 ga wire. This one above uses a plastic screw cover and cap to insulate it under the headliner. Nylon finish washers insulate it from contact with the metal through the roof. A little sealer and it screws together.

Image Image

The same rivets were used as the contacts in the bow. I just drilled the rubber insert and tightened them into place. The brass head is flat and approximately 1 cm in diameter. Mounted in rubber like this it should help to promote a good contact.

The bow is on and the power wire run down the "A" post, through the firewall grommet to the battery via an inline fuse. The left side grounds to the roof rack mounting bolt.

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Post by F9K9 »

Need a whole lot more photos than that for us Dummies :lol: Also need a pic of your rack. That is a completely different looking rack than mine. It is a very "clean" and well thought out install thus far :thumb:
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Post by HenryJ »

My truck , a 2001, did not come with a roof rack. The second gen roof racks were not to be found yet, so I installed a 1991 Oldsmobile Bravada roof rack.

Image Image

Its rails mount to the roof to spread the weight over a long wide area. I added a third bow, also to help distribute weight. Photos are not going to be of much help here. The install is virtually invisible. All you can see is the brass contact on the top of the bow. If you have a request I will do my best to get a picture or clarify.
This probably won't be a complete "how-to". More likely just some ideas to steal. I will do my best to help anyone who wants to try it though :mg:

I now have power and ground contacts. Next step is too start modding the box for contacts and wirelessly controlled lights.
Last edited by HenryJ on Tue Aug 21, 2007 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by F9K9 »

Looking good! I was wanting to see the the roof hole, the A pillar removed and some other minor things that you take for granted. No need to remove for photos now but, what all was required to route the wires inside? Sun visor and A pillar is a given. Did the OH console need to be removed? Is there enough flex in the roof liner to get by with the bare minimum removed? I know this is an electrical mod but, it all "kind of" ties in together. :wink:
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Post by HenryJ »

I drilled a 1/4" hole in the roof rail just as you would for a mounting hole. To get to the bottom side I had to remove the interior grab handle and just unsnap the A-pillar plastic cover. The visor was left in place as was the overhead console. Bear in mind that the 2001 uses a leftover Blazer headliner. The 2002-up crew cabs have a different headliner. It is form fit at the door openings much better.
There was room to squeeze in there and slip that connector to the hole. I inserted a pic from the top side to align it and pushed it up into place. I gooped it with silicone prior to installation. I did get some of that in my fingers. From the top side I pushed the nylon finish washer over the inserted receptacle and put a star washer on the screw before the wire terminal. Once snugged up I smeared silicone over the connection and then reinstalled the bow over the top of it.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Post by F9K9 »

Thanks a bunch, Brule. I think I have a grasp of it :lol: I'm still going with the trailer wiring idea to make my basket work on the jeep too. It is like starting all over again with the XJ. Makes me appreciate the CC all that much more after my limited research on Jeeps. :wink:
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Post by HenryJ »

Done!

I used some leftover wiring from a couple light sets. The receiver and relay are mounted with velcro, as is one of the remotes attached to the upper console.

Image Image

I had a few of those plastic covers used for the side post battery terminals. They are usually discarded when you install a battery, but I hang on to them. They worked really well as insulators for the box contacts and are color coded red / black. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top and pushed 1/4" carriage bolts through them. Another one on top with a washer and nut to tighten them up. Then add my terminal connection and nut to secure it. Top that off with a red cap. That made for a simple secure insulated contact.

Image Image

The box is as easy as it was without lights to mount and remove. One step better than plug-n-play, wireless control and mounting :mg:

I still need to add a dome light. I haven't scrounged what I want just yet.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
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Post by F9K9 »

Sometimes it is really difficult to like you :lol: Nice mod! That is next on my list after the aux fuel tank :wink: All kidding aside. One very clean install! I like it a bunch!
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Post by HenryJ »

Here is what it looks like now-

Image

This is the winch lights. They are focused for the fog and centerline-

Image

This is the cargo box mounted lights. They are a wide beam and light up the sides pretty good-

Image

This is all the lights and the quad beams. The quad beams include HIR bulbs in the highbeams and the highbeam bulbs in the lows-

Image

The transmitters work at about the same distance. Probably just over 100 ft. The cargo box receiver will turn the lights on much further, probably twice that far, but will not shut them off at that distance.

Now I still have a set of fogs and another receiver. Maybe it is time for some rock lights? ;)

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
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Post by HenryJ »

Image

It really works pretty well. The winch lights are very usable. The box lights light up the hood and create too much glare on the windshield to be very usable while driving.
I do like them for scene lighting while approaching the vehicle. Handy for loading too. I did add one of the mid to late '90s GM fullsize under hood retractable lights, like Art used for his truck, inside the cargo box. That was a good addition for sure.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
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Post by F9K9 »

Looks really good, Brule. I think my basket lights are a little more like a long range spot light type thus eliminating the hood glare but, not as practical as your flood style.
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Post by HenryJ »

Actually mine are driving lights and not floods. Not a pencil beam, but a little wider pattern. That was part of my consideration when choosing them.
It is the stray light that glares on the hood and windshield.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
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Re: Wireless control lighting

Post by HenryJ »

HenryJ wrote:...I came across these wireless controllers from 2Kool Technologies while researching options for safari rack lighting.
I found it a deal too good to pass up. They arrived quickly and look pretty good. I like the fact that they are programmable for the button you choose.
2Kool seems to be gone. Since installing the HID lights on the cargo box, I have had some problems turning them on and off. I can only guess the bump is creating some sort of interference. They had just become unreliable.

Today , I swapped the 2Kool remote out with one I picked up off of ebay - RM100 12V Universal Remote Control Switcher $17.95 shipped.
Image
Plasma LED high power remote switcher

This seems to operate reliably so far. The Moab trip will tell the tale.

The cargo box fits the wifes car too. I can power the lights with the power pack and operate it wirelessly. Should come in handy.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK
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Post by HenryJ »

HenryJ wrote: The box lights light up the hood and create too much glare on the windshield to be very usable while driving.
Finally did something about the windshield glare.

Image

I added a piece of polished aluminum to the lower portion of the lights. This shades the windshield and hood.
With the lights on and at night I slowly raised a piece from the bottom until it just shaded the point of the hood. This turned out to be about an inch below centerline of the light. The piece fits against the glass and is pushed down against the rubber seal. I used a thin strip of adhesive foam taper to attach the top to the lense.
There is still some light on the hood, but the glare that was on the windshield is now gone. The reflection on the hood is greatly reduced and I still have very good long range lighting.

I am again fighting a relay bounce in starting the lights. I need to research this further. I did read something about an electrical bounce when looking into the bipolar latching relay.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK