HenryJ wrote:If you read the threads, it states that the High and Low beams have separate wires (ie. not shared load on a single wire) so the only increase in load is to the alt.
I feel comfortable with the mod after reading all the information, and "weeding" out the nonsense.
It has been tested for a year now , so I'm convinced
HenryJ wrote:Added a mod page with a color coded picture for those who need some help with this mod:
Quadbeam Headlight Mod
Conman wrote:Brule, I just want to verify what you are saying, If I understand your mod, the yellow wire activates the relay when switching over to highbeams? Or is the relay always on when the DRL is on? Is there 12volts coming from the yellow wire?
HenryJ wrote:Conman wrote:Brule, I just want to verify what you are saying, If I understand your mod, the yellow wire activates the relay when switching over to highbeams? Or is the relay always on when the DRL is on? Is there 12volts coming from the yellow wire?
Not quite right.
The yellow wire when grounded turns the low beams on.
The relay is only closed when the highbeams are on.
The yellow wire is negative to activate the lowbeams.
Conman wrote:That's what I thought but then how does the yellow wire activate the relay? Is your diagram backwords? Should yellow be on 87(85 on your diagram) and the highbeam+ be on 85 instead? I just want to make sure.
HenryJ wrote:Conman wrote:That's what I thought but then how does the yellow wire activate the relay? Is your diagram backwords? Should yellow be on 87(85 on your diagram) and the highbeam+ be on 85 instead? I just want to make sure.
I know it looks a little wrong if you look at it and try to understand the diagram-
No matter what you try I'm not going to second guess the color coding Believe me it is right.
The whole headlight sysetm would take forever to try to explain, with the DRL AHL, switch , etc. there are some strange things happening. For instance there is no dedicated positive and negative, they rotate. depending on the activation (AHL, DRL...)
adrenalnjunky wrote:I know we have 3 threads running on the same topic right now, but where are you guys splicing in to the wiring? Right at the headlights, or is it up at the underhood relay/fuse center?
2bunik wrote:I tried doing this mod myself ...wouldnt work for some reason.....couldnt get my cigarette lighter to work.. ...And to think! I work on a Multi Million dollar F-15 EAGLE and keep it flying every single day..
HenryJ wrote:Huston there may be a problem!
Looks like I need some marinade for my crow....
I need to revise the relay diagram...
OK, here's what happened..I had the diagram rotated clockwise and obviously incorrect.
Conman and 2bunik , My apologies I do make mistakes SORRY. Be a little more persistant on calling me stupid
The diagram is correct now, and actually makes sense when you look at it too.
Conman wrote:From the new Diagram, I assume there is a separate wire for DRL for the High. So if I understand the diagram now, the when you select Highbeam, it then grounds the yellow wire which activates the low beams. So the highbeam wire you tap have nothing to do with the DRL highbeams. Nice and simple.
:idea: Does that mean you're "quadlit" now?2bunik wrote:I see it now .... ....
2bunik wrote::( no I have been so burned out on taking that headlight off and messing with it I havent tried it again . but after i get done reading these new posts I ll get back out there...
I would say the location is not as important as making sure all your "taps" are good and nothing shorted or disconnected. The yellow/black wire is LH low beam.marks10cc wrote:The purple wire going into the high beam is negative when highs are on and positive (from the rt headlight) when DRL's are on. The green/white wire is closed to the yellow/black wire when high beams are on, and opened to a ground when DRL's are on. This is how the highbeams run in series for the DRL's. So since this works for other people, but not me, does the tap-in location on the wire make a difference?
I hit the right wires, they're attached to the right poles on the relay, but the DRL's are activating my relay and grounding (lighting) the lows.
marks10cc wrote:I disassembled everything to make sure the headlights worked without the relay, and they do. I re-installed all of the wires and a new relay that is definately a normal open relay. The quadbeams work (always have) but the lows are still coming on with the DRL's.
Could it be these Radioshack 30A Automotive relays? Are you guys using different relays? I'm wondering if the ultra small amperage from the DRL's are tripping my relays but nobody elses. This is the third relay I've tried. And I know I have it wired the same way as the diagram shows.
marks10cc wrote:What type of testing? I can do it and post results this weekend. I would really like to get this to work, maybe some tinkering will convince it.
2bunik, didn't you mention you had the low beam DRL's? I'm wondering if that's why your worked and mine didn't. Anybody have a 2003 highbeam DRL truck that this worked on? I still think I did something wrong, but can't find it.
marks10cc wrote:If the wiring is the same, it has to be the relay.
marks10cc wrote:I just tried the column switch in both places, no go. The yellow/black wire in that diagram is marked as E09 while the white/green is marked Domestic Only, our trucks don't have the yellow/black wire either. I'm not sure what E09 is, but it's not domestic
If the wiring is the same, it has to be the relay. Conman, 2bunik, where did you buy your relays? I'm using a $4 Radioshack that may just be tripping with low power. Pepboys has Hella relays, is there anyway to buy a relay that won't trip below a specified amperage?
smokinjoe wrote:2bunik wrote:I have an 03 with low beam drls..
my 03 DRL's are the high beam, i wonder why yours are lows?
2bunik wrote:... all four lights were on . DUDE I opts checked them when I instaled it. remember all them post a while back on how i got them working and all. ? I know they were working.. but today I found out I was wrong. but marks10cc is on the same boat with me...
marks10cc wrote:The only thing I've come with thus far is to tap into the purple closer to the multi-function switch. That is where the purple is grounded to activate the high beams. By the looks on the schematics, the BCM interferes with the purple wire somewhere near the under hood fuse block. If I could tap in between that and the multi-function switch, it should be a dead wire during DRL's.
I haven't found the wire yet. I want to stay under the hood, but I have a feeling there's gonna be a whole mess of purple wires near that fuse block
(edit: should we split the topic since the 01's and 02's are working? 2bunik's right, no need to confuse anybody, seems to be just us 2 so far)
Ok, so I'm just guessing , but it's not working for you ?marks10cc wrote:
it won't go away
I have an idea, but need more info on the 'flash to pass' feature. Would it be an overload on the system to have the high beam switch turn on flash to pass (which lights all four lights) rather than the high beams? There's a brown, yellow and purple wire coming from the switch. If you cut the purple from the switch, and tap it (from the switch) into the brown, the flash to pass would be activated in the full pull back switch position. But I don't know if that's a good thing.
Crew02 wrote:For those of you having a problem with this, you can buy a kit to do it from Summit. It includes the relay, and all of the wiring. Oh, and instructions. It is a lot more expensive ($37.95), however it is painless.
Summit PN# PRF-30821
marks10cc wrote:DRL: the DK Blue wire is always charged, so the RH Highbeam receives the positive flow. The BCM has a 'Highbeam Dimmer Switch' that releases the purple from being grounded and creates a circuit between the RH high and LH high, using the purple wire. The DRL relay (pin number 5) grounds the green/white wire. The high beams are then in series. However, the DK blue wire (there's two, but they come from the same fuse) and the yellow/black wire (from the LH fuse) are receiving power, so if you ground the yellow the lows will light too. The relay is definately tripping and groudning the yellow. We received a signal with the green/white and purple wires in DRL operation and high beam operation, both at 11.5V (truck wasn't running).
2bunik wrote::( can u explain this again. I didnt catch what u said HENRY J.. run a jumper wire from 87 to 86? leave 87 grounded and jumpered? what about 85.. I thought that was the ground? sorry
Crew02 wrote:Summit Lists PN# PRF-30822 for 2003 models.
From the painless relay page wrote:If your head-light wires are Tan and Green use Kit #30802; if Purple and Yellow use Kit #30821).
Tach's cab quadbeam mod page wrote:
Splice tap the green w/white wire (high beam +) attach to relay "activate +"(#85) , Splice tap the yellow wire attach to relay feed (Normally Open #30) , attach a wire ,or wires, to a good ground and connect it to the relay supply (#87) and to relay "activate - " (#86).
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