Yes. You can even jumper from one to the next and then just run one wire. This is just to enable the relays.fallvitals wrote:Terminal 1 - #86 from both high and low beam relays, I am just gonna splice both wires together and run them to the switch as one, correct?
I would let Reed tell you, but he has lots on his plate right now, so I will. it is "F'n Magic!"Thanks Brule... im not sure what FM means?
They do. Just as an independent installation. Their liability would be huge if they planned the kit to integrate into all vehicles stock headlamps systems. Not to mention all the legal matters we already discussed.fallvitals wrote:I just dont understand why piaa wouldn't have em wired up like this anyways.
No. Hot only with the ignition in the on position. That way you don't leave them on and drain the batteryfallvitals wrote:The switch/ign +, is that just a constant 12v source?
fallvitals wrote:Gotcha last question! thinking about it, why is the switch grounded in the first set up you typed, an the second set up you gave the switch is +? why is that?
Sure. You could burn out a relay, or worse. I am fairly sure that they are fused. That should take some of the risk out of it Check the underhood electrical center for headlamp fuses.fallvitals wrote:If I tap the wrong high, can any thing be damaged, or if somethings polarity reverses like you mentioned?
Soldering a connection to the back side of the in dash fuse panel is not only easier, but safer. You can even just add one wire and you have a fused connection.fallvitals wrote:As for the ignition + wire for the switch. Instead of running a wire to the fuse box, I can run one to the pink wire (ign 1) in the ignition harness, if I'm not mistaken, it would be cleaner.
I have said that more times than I can count now!fallvitals wrote:...Then I'm done with all the big projects to this stupid truck!
I think it is the sweet spot.The 3" cat back flowmaster is what you recommend if iirc?
Not really. That is apples to oranges on too many levels. That is trying to ground the lows to keep them on with the highs.fallvitals wrote:Shouldn't I use the same wires I'm using for quadbeams?
True. The first scenario does work like that and may work. The only thing that is the same is the tapped wire.... from my logic it seems these two wires I'm using, at least the high beam being the activator for the relay, is good?
HenryJ wrote:killian96ss wrote:Do the Crew Cabs have the wiring harness behind the blank panel for the air bag switch?
No, we have the same harness as all the utilities (Blazers) , so the wiring for the rear wiper/hatch release is back there.
HenryJ wrote:...Can you use the wiring? YES! I even used the switch
(I've added a couple indicator LEDs since this picture)
Heres the wiring:
Pin A YEL = Accesory Voltage
Pin B DK GRN = Rear Window washer Control
Pin C GRY = Rear Window Wiper Switch Signal
Pin D BLK = Trunk Release Switch Signal
Pin E BLK = Ground
Pin F GRY Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
HenryJ wrote:fallvitals wrote:Gotcha last question! thinking about it, why is the switch grounded in the first set up you typed, an the second set up you gave the switch is +? why is that?
Activation by the highbeam wire may be done through the ground instead of the power. Basically I am saying that the headlamps may have power to them all the time and they are grounded to turn them on. The system was complex and I don't recall all the details now.
This is the original thread from almost seven years ago: Quad Beam Headlight Mod
If you follow that you will find the problem with the reduced intensity daytime running lights and their rotating the polarity of the high beam head lamp wiring to operate them in a series rather than parallel.
The low should be easy to wire up. You get into trouble while trying to figure out how to tap the highs.
That is theorem number 16 of the bigger FM theory.fallvitals wrote:.......I dont see how just grounding the switch will ground the high beams when all those are doing is just "completing the circuit" for the relays? But I could be talking out of my butt right now too, but ill give it a try.
The Control Freak
· These are built to order. Lead time is about 7 to 10 working days
· Weather Tight Power Distribution Center
· Houses 5 Fused Relays and 5 Aux Fuses
· Power Output and Control Connects Through Metri-Pack Sealed Connectors
· Dimensions - 4” Long x 3.5” Wide x 3” Tall
Includes Battery Cables with In Line Fuse, Accessory Wiring, Control Wiring to Switches, and Basic Mount.
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