Lubing and Manuals

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Lubing and Manuals

Postby TMABES » Wed Nov 13, 2002 10:05 am

Hiya Folks

I am going to do the 3k lube soon. Whats the best way to lube it? On my Helo you just pump in grease until you purge out all the old grease. Not sure if that is ok on the truck lube points. I dont want to bust any kind of seals.



Also Does anyone know if the Haynes manuel for S-10s (199? - 2000 i think) will be good enough for my 2002?





Thanks Tracy
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Postby HenryJ » Wed Nov 13, 2002 6:34 pm

I just give each balljoint , Idler and tie-rod end a couple shots of grease every oil change. You can watch the grease boots (dust covers) and see them fill (balloon) I wouldn't overfill them just keep them full.

Haynes is a pretty good manual-IMO



P.S. eleven grease zerks on the frontend, and you may find it easier to change the two inner tierod link zerks to 90* fittings.

ImageImage
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Sep 28, 2007 2:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby a2b » Wed Nov 13, 2002 11:26 pm

you have to change it to 90' or you cant get to it :twisted:
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Thanks

Postby TMABES » Thu Nov 14, 2002 3:42 pm

Thanks for the info!

Do you think i can get to the tie rod fittings with a flexible hose im ganna borrow one from work.



About the manuel. the only haynes manuel i could find went to 2000 my truck is a 2002 will it still be accurate enough to do work on it?



Thanks again.



My Lift kit is in atlanta now should here tommorow!!

should go quick il have 4 helpers :)
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Re: Thanks

Postby Jim » Thu Nov 14, 2002 4:25 pm

TMABES wrote:Thanks for the info!

Do you think i can get to the tie rod fittings with a flexible hose im ganna borrow one from work.




I have been able to get to the fittings with a 16" flexable hose, my son has been inside to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock the three times I did it, as for the dealer I don't know if they really get to all of them. I've heard alot of people with S-10s talking about needing ball joints & tie rod ends around 60k, I don't think that should happen if it is lubed regularly. :roll:
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Postby HenryJ » Thu Nov 14, 2002 6:26 pm

If you get the 2000 Haynes manual cheap I'd say Ok, otherwise be patient and wait for one for your year , or look for a used one. There haven't been any major suspension changes back to '91 when they started installing the 4.3l engines. The '94 up would be close on most stuff. The crew cab started in 2001. I'm not sure of the changes for 2002-up but I believe they are in the EGR system , or lack there of, electronics, audio, accessories and seats (nothing major).

If you really need a manual, the GM (Helm's publishing) is $120. If you plan to keep it long term it is a good investment.

A couple of the guys here have had luck (with help) in greasing those zerks, I'm usually on my own , so the 90* fittings worked the best for me. I tried to find a position and even with a long flex hose had no luck.

All the help on the lift kit should be great, so long as the "bench racing" doesn't interfere ;) Iwas on my own and did some extra stuff, so it took me 12 hrs.

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Hehe bench racing = I can do it faster? :)

Postby TMABES » Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:51 pm

Thanks for the info!

At about 11 bucks I think il go for the current Haynes manuel. I guess I should be able to tell by the instructions if it is to far off.



I guess il by me two 90 zerk fittings. Better to turn the wrench a few times changing em that cussing trying to lube em them over the miles.





By bench racing do you mean everyone competing to get things done faster and then forgetting things or screwing crap up because of that?

I shouldnt have that problem. Everyone helping me are used to entering in write-ups every time theyremove a bolt and then entering Torque and other info so that there is a record of work done in case a Bird crashes.

5 of us did a lift on a Ford F-150 a few weeks ago. everyone put theyre initials beside each step as they completed it . It worked out pretty good.

one of the guys helping me now helped last time il put him in charge of certain areas. hopefully we want mess nothing up.



Thanks for the info.



Oh BTW I am thinking of geting some 31 " Geolanders soon have you had any problems with them rubbing with just a 2 " lift? I dont feel to comfortable with a T-bar crank. Also if I get larger tires should I get the alignment checked?
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Fergot sumthing:)

Postby TMABES » Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:53 pm

Darn forgot to ask this

Is the threads on the zerk fittings standard or metric?
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Postby HenryJ » Thu Nov 14, 2002 9:15 pm

$11 is cheap enough, and you can never have too many manuals even if you don't even own a vehicle for it :D

BenchRacin': That's where everyone ends up sitting around swapping outrageous storys and the only thing that gets done is the time you had.

As for the zerk.... I don't remember, probably metric, but seemed smaller like the standard ones...hmmm, maybe someone else knows?

If not just take one out and take it with you to get one that fits.

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Postby a2b » Fri Nov 15, 2002 1:10 am

my haynes manual doesnt show where all 11 greese fittings are. and i still havent found them :oops:
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Grease fittings

Postby HenryJ » Fri Nov 15, 2002 7:03 am

Here is the list of grease fittings:

Upper ball joint #1 Left-#2 Right, Lower ball joint #3 left-#4 right , outer tie rod link #5 left- #6 right , inner tie rod link #7 left- #8 right, Steering box ball #9, Idler arm ball #10, Idler shaft #11.

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Postby quickbiker » Fri Nov 15, 2002 4:53 pm

Yes, there is definitely 11 points to grease on the front, nothing on the drive shafts though. Keep an eye on them when you fill, you don't want to blow them out. Just feel them with your finger, if they feel flat, fill it till you can feel the pressure, like a balloon. I did have to replace the rubber on the inner ball joints on the tie links with I did my lift, so it doesn't blow up now :(



And the Hayes manual is worthless. Chiltons used to be good, but they have gone down hill fast. I just can't see a reason they make a manual, then every time you want to work on something, they say to take it to a proffesional to get service. What good is it then? LOL I got the manufacturers 3 volume set. And it is very, very good to say the least.



Here is where you can buy the only manual that is worth it (IMO). It's about $100 or so if I can remember: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp
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Postby TMABES » Fri Nov 15, 2002 9:30 pm

Thanks again for the info!

I think il get the haynes for now but will definately put the Helm manuel on my wish list.



Quickbiker

Where in Va do you Live? My hometown is Roanoke. I bought my truck at Pinkerton Chevy while I was home on leave a couple months ago. We should meet up and hit the trails when I get to go home again!



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Postby quickbiker » Fri Nov 15, 2002 9:48 pm

Ha! Definitely! Just keep an eye out on the calendar at: http://www.core4x4.org/ . My wife and I are members there and ride when we can with them, a great group and a few S-10 members, some that aren't members yet, LOL.



I also try to make the S-10 roundups twice a year. You can catch their events at: http://pub124.ezboard.com/bs10extremists .



I live very near Manassas, in Haymarket. Most of our rides are down near Charlottesville, Harrisonburg, WV/VA line. So from Roanoke, you would be very close to the rides we do, closer than most in the clubs. We also go sometimes to PA and NC. We have members from near and far! Guests are always welcome! No membership needed. :wink:
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Postby a2b » Thu Nov 21, 2002 10:54 am

HenryJ wrote:I just give each balljoint , Idler and tie-rod end a couple shots of grease every oil change. You can watch the grease boots (dust covers) and see them fill (balloon) I wouldn't overfill them just keep them full.

Haynes is a pretty good manual-IMO



P.S. eleven grease zerks on the frontend, and you may find it easier to change the two inner tierod link zerks to 90* fittings.

ImageImage




okay i have found 10 and after 40k miles i actually filled the great points with grease. that were as flat as pancakes. and i didnt have to install 90' ones either. but where is that 11th one?
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Postby quickbiker » Thu Nov 21, 2002 11:38 am

Hobbie, you didn't list the ones you found so we would know which one you missed, but I can try to name them all. I'm not good with all the techy names, but here it goes. There are 4 on the outer upper and lower ball joints for the outer A-arms. There is 4 for the 2 tie rods (inside and outside). There is 2 for the center link that attach to the pitman arm and idler arm. And the 11th one is on the other side of the idler arm where it pivots on the frame brace for it. That one is difficult to see. You can see it I think if you open the skid plate door and shine a light to the passenger side.



The reason there is an odd number is that there is no greese fitting on the pitman arm going into the steering gear box, it is splined and the bearing is in the box.



Hope this makes some sense! :roll:
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Postby a2b » Wed Nov 27, 2002 2:15 pm

okay, so TODAY i finally got to the last grease fitting. while it was on the lift, they let me get under there to try to get it. it was sooo much easier greasing it when its 6' up in the air. so after 40k, all the grease points are covered :lol:



so here is another ?



the pitman arm (i think) and the two others that are closest to it dont have grease bags. and when i squirted grease in them, grease just flowed out of the other side. is this normal? there are 3 that are this way?. what is the deal with those. why are they different than the others with the bags on them?
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Postby quickbiker » Fri Nov 29, 2002 10:21 am

a2b wrote:okay, so TODAY i finally got to the last grease fitting. while it was on the lift, they let me get under there to try to get it. it was sooo much easier greasing it when its 6' up in the air. so after 40k, all the grease points are covered :lol:



so here is another ?



the pitman arm (i think) and the two others that are closest to it dont have grease bags. and when i squirted grease in them, grease just flowed out of the other side. is this normal? there are 3 that are this way?. what is the deal with those. why are they different than the others with the bags on them?




Don't tell me, ya lost count, eh? :lol:
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Postby a2b » Tue Dec 03, 2002 6:12 pm

okay, so no one answered my question :(

is it normal for 3 of the 11 grease points, 3 being the ones on the most inside of the truck, to not have grease bags and when you squirt grease into them they just spit the grease out the side.

is this normal :shock:
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Postby Jim » Tue Dec 03, 2002 8:09 pm

Most boots have a little weep hole to let the grease & water out. The mechanic I use to work with said the most important reason for greasing often is to get the foreign matter out.
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Postby HenryJ » Tue Dec 03, 2002 10:10 pm

is it normal for 3 of the 11 grease points, 3 being the ones on the most inside of the truck, to not have grease bags and when you squirt grease into them they just spit the grease out the side.


:shock: WHAT you blew the seals out of 3 of them? Some one take that grease gun away from him :evil: j/k





Everything is good :D some of them don't have a "bag" just a rubber seal (dust cover) :lol:

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incomplete front end lube!

Postby Socaldave » Mon Apr 14, 2003 2:52 pm

After reading this post on the 11 grease fittings on our Crewcabs I double checked my wifes 2000 Blazer after some warranty work at the dealer last week. (Power steering pump was leaking) Anyway, I had a lube/oil filter done while it was there. I get home and crawl under to see if the technician had cleaned up all the oil from the leaky pump and guess what? They had not lubed a single steering component. :x I take it back the next day at lunch time and I tell then to lube all 11 fittings. That night I crawl back under and find that they missed the 2 fittings on the idler arm and the one on the pitman arm. I go back again today and they throw it back up on the rack again. 40 minutes later the service writer comes to tell me they re-lubed all components but the technician claims the idler arm and pitman arm are sealed units with no grease fittings! I manage to stay calm, pop open the hood, and looking down the side of the radiator show him the one visible fitting on the end of the idler arm which connects to the center link. The technician says wow, I did not see that one? :twisted: I tell him to feel around for them like I did, they are there. 20 more minutes on the rack and they are supposed to be done. I will crawl under again tonight when I get home............



So for those of you who pay others to do a lube/oil filter tell them there are 11 fittings and then check their work.



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Postby christian » Mon Apr 14, 2003 3:23 pm

I always check my truck at each automn and spring and i grease the truck myself...and check for anything unsual...except the a few spots that were done by me doing some off-roading...lol



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Re: incomplete front end lube!

Postby Jim » Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:07 pm

Socaldave wrote:
So for those of you who pay others to do a lube/oil filter tell them there are 11 fittings and then check their work.



Good help is hard to come by!




If I have to check there work I may as well do it myself...which I do. As I posted earlier "Mr. Goodwrench" put the 4 cyl. filter on my CC. :roll:
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Postby quickbiker » Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:34 pm

Yea, any lube place is a waste to go. I went once in my life time to a quick lube place. I had a 78 Buick Regal at the time. They only hit like 2 fitting and was letting it down. I stood there and showed him all 11 spots. If I gotta do that, I'll just do the friggin thing myself.
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Postby a2b » Mon Apr 14, 2003 5:05 pm

i have 14 hit points to grease
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Postby quickbiker » Mon Apr 14, 2003 5:22 pm

a2b wrote:i have 14 hit points to grease




Must be that drive shaft! And how is that shaft working out? Any vibes? I still can't believe you busted that, cause you're at stock angle! :shock:
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Postby Jim » Mon Apr 14, 2003 6:15 pm

a2b wrote:i have 14 hit points to grease




14 :shock: :shock: :shock: You must have 2 on your new front driveshaft where's the other one :?
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Postby HenryJ » Mon Apr 14, 2003 6:43 pm

Three on the front driveshaft, 2 U-joints + 1 slip joint ;)

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Postby marks10cc » Mon Apr 14, 2003 9:03 pm

Alright, now I'm scared to go somewhere else for service again. I took may Malibu in for an oil change once and they forgot to attach the lower air foil/skid plate. Once on my z28 they only put one lug per wheel back on after a tire rotation... different places. In fact, I've NEVER had a good service. But, I don't have a level place to do my own work. Do I HAVE to jack it up for a simple lub/oil change? I got a nice little incline that should help drain the oil. But can I get to all 11 zerks without lifting the truck up? I'm not fat enough to not fit under the truck, YET. :wink:
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Postby a2b » Mon Apr 14, 2003 10:29 pm

hey mark. no place, not even the dealer will hit all 11 points. just the ball joints. you got to get to that idler arm. just bring here and i will do it for ya. :lol: and no, you dont have to jack it up to do it. its easier if you have the wheels off, but i dont even do that unless i am rotatin the tires
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Postby Jim » Tue Apr 15, 2003 6:30 am

HenryJ wrote:Three on the front driveshaft, 2 U-joints + 1 slip joint ;)


I thought that was it, I just couldn't remember what it was called.

Want to talk about workmanship...my former partner in the auto business just had a rollback installed on his new truck by one of the top manufactures, when they stretched the frame & put a center bearing on the drive shaft they never installed a slip joint in the rear driveshaft. Also the welding on the brackets looked like 7th grade metal shop quality. Needless to say he sent it back :x
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Postby Conman » Sun Sep 07, 2003 4:34 pm

quickbiker wrote:
a2b wrote:i have 14 hit points to grease




Must be that drive shaft! And how is that shaft working out? Any vibes? I still can't believe you busted that, cause you're at stock angle! :shock:




I just realized I have them on my rear drive shaft on my Trooper. I better buy a grease gun them cause I know my dealer does not hit all of them.



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Postby Conman » Sun Sep 07, 2003 4:51 pm

Would this kit have the right 90*:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=45732



Also, would this help to grease them up without the 90* ones:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=44772





Would this work better?:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... umber=3495

Image



I'm planning on doing the skid plates next weekend so I figure I would kill two birds with one stone.



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Postby Dragonmaster » Mon Sep 08, 2003 11:53 am

the 90 degree grease tip for the guns don't tend to work very well and it's cheaper/easier to buy two 90 deg grease fittings than it is to buy the 90 deg tip and then change the tip just for two spots then change it back for the other ones.
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Postby Rusty » Mon Oct 13, 2003 6:31 am

HenryJ wrote:BenchRacin': That's where everyone ends up sitting around swapping outrageous storys and the only thing that gets done is the time you had.


That and all the Beer in the fridge!
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Postby smokinjoe » Mon Oct 20, 2003 3:47 pm

did the 6K service this weekend got a grease gun from autozone to lube the front end too, gun 7.99,18 in hose extension 5.99, grease 4.19, 2 1/4 90 degree fittings (napa) 1.52

i found ten of the fittings but i cant seem to locate the mysterious 11th fitting, i was wondering if you guys could give me a hand, i dont know all the nomenclatures for parts so you may have to walk me through it like a 3 year old

by the way the fittings i got at least are not metric...and there wasnt a drop of grease in the fittings i replaced looking at them you could tell grease had never considered getting close to those fittings so i personally recommend that all new CC owners get theirs lubed,mine had none from the factory
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Postby quickbiker » Mon Oct 20, 2003 6:01 pm

Take pics of all the ones you found and put a circle there, and we'll tell ya which one ya missed. :lol:

Well, your already doing way better than any fast lube place, they would only grease the lower ball joints and drop it there. :?

It explained pretty well above, dunno how else to help you other than do some research on the internet or get a manual to teach yourself all the nomencalture. The best way is learn by research/doing. Good luck

I didn't know a thing about differentials or lockers. And I did weeks of research, reading, etc. And then I just put it in there including setting up the gear pattern, shims, etc. Now I can do it blind folded. So research is your friend!
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Postby BlackDime » Thu Jun 18, 2009 7:36 am

So I am going to replace the ones you cannot get to with 90's. Is 1/4" the right size zirc?
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Postby F9K9 » Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:42 pm

I do not recall. I pulled one and took it inside with me.
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Re: Lubing and Manuals

Postby LoneWolf04 » Tue Jan 18, 2011 5:39 pm

I replaced the two inner tie rod zerks with 90s the other day. They are 1/4".
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Re:

Postby Horsehammerr » Sun Nov 04, 2012 4:04 am

quickbiker wrote:Yes, there is definitely 11 points to grease on the front, nothing on the drive shafts though. Keep an eye on them when you fill, you don't want to blow them out. Just feel them with your finger, if they feel flat, fill it till you can feel the pressure, like a balloon. I did have to replace the rubber on the inner ball joints on the tie links with I did my lift, so it doesn't blow up now :(



And the Hayes manual is worthless. Chiltons used to be good, but they have gone down hill fast. I just can't see a reason they make a manual, then every time you want to work on something, they say to take it to a proffesional to get service. What good is it then? LOL I got the manufacturers 3 volume set. And it is very, very good to say the least.



Here is where you can buy the only manual that is worth it (IMO). It's about $100 or so if I can remember: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp
Now $200, but unavailable at this time. Will be notified when available. :thumb: :rah:
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Re: Re:

Postby HenryJ » Sun Nov 04, 2012 12:55 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:
quickbiker wrote:Here is where you can buy the only manual that is worth it (IMO). It's about $100 or so if I can remember: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp
Now $200, but unavailable at this time. Will be notified when available.

I bought my last one on Ebay.

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