TMABES wrote:Thanks for the info!
Do you think i can get to the tie rod fittings with a flexible hose im ganna borrow one from work.
HenryJ wrote:I just give each balljoint , Idler and tie-rod end a couple shots of grease every oil change. You can watch the grease boots (dust covers) and see them fill (balloon) I wouldn't overfill them just keep them full.
Haynes is a pretty good manual-IMO
P.S. eleven grease zerks on the frontend, and you may find it easier to change the two inner tierod link zerks to 90* fittings.
a2b wrote:okay, so TODAY i finally got to the last grease fitting. while it was on the lift, they let me get under there to try to get it. it was sooo much easier greasing it when its 6' up in the air. so after 40k, all the grease points are covered
so here is another ?
the pitman arm (i think) and the two others that are closest to it dont have grease bags. and when i squirted grease in them, grease just flowed out of the other side. is this normal? there are 3 that are this way?. what is the deal with those. why are they different than the others with the bags on them?
is it normal for 3 of the 11 grease points, 3 being the ones on the most inside of the truck, to not have grease bags and when you squirt grease into them they just spit the grease out the side.
So for those of you who pay others to do a lube/oil filter tell them there are 11 fittings and then check their work.
Good help is hard to come by!
a2b wrote:i have 14 hit points to grease
HenryJ wrote:Three on the front driveshaft, 2 U-joints + 1 slip joint
quickbiker wrote:a2b wrote:i have 14 hit points to grease
Must be that drive shaft! And how is that shaft working out? Any vibes? I still can't believe you busted that, cause you're at stock angle!
HenryJ wrote:BenchRacin': That's where everyone ends up sitting around swapping outrageous storys and the only thing that gets done is the time you had.
Now $200, but unavailable at this time. Will be notified when available.quickbiker wrote:Yes, there is definitely 11 points to grease on the front, nothing on the drive shafts though. Keep an eye on them when you fill, you don't want to blow them out. Just feel them with your finger, if they feel flat, fill it till you can feel the pressure, like a balloon. I did have to replace the rubber on the inner ball joints on the tie links with I did my lift, so it doesn't blow up now
And the Hayes manual is worthless. Chiltons used to be good, but they have gone down hill fast. I just can't see a reason they make a manual, then every time you want to work on something, they say to take it to a proffesional to get service. What good is it then? LOL I got the manufacturers 3 volume set. And it is very, very good to say the least.
Here is where you can buy the only manual that is worth it (IMO). It's about $100 or so if I can remember: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp
Horsehammerr wrote:Now $200, but unavailable at this time. Will be notified when available.quickbiker wrote:Here is where you can buy the only manual that is worth it (IMO). It's about $100 or so if I can remember: http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp
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