Intake gasket replacement

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Intake gasket replacement

Post by Jim »

Intake gasket replacement.
It's not the crew cab but my 99 Bravada has a very small coolant leak at the front corner of intake when not running. I don't have time to fix it myself. I'm either taking it to my independent repair shop or if any of you suggest I will take it to my local chevy dealer which has a great reputation. I just would like an idea of the repair time involved.
I hate to see it taken apart because the motor in the bravada is silky smooth and quiet compared to my crew, you can't even tell it's running from inside the truck.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

Wish I could help you with an estimate. I have a friend here who had the same problem. They ended up trading it in , instead of fixing the problem.
I would suggest the small repair shop. It really is not a bad job. Making a switch to green coolant would be on the top of my list too.
As I understand it the early gaskets may not have been compatible with the organic acid technology of the Dex. The Dex eats the gaskets. When the manifold is removed you will see indications of the reaction. I have done several fullsize of the same year with the same problem.

The new gaskets may, or may not be better. I don't take the chance.

You might plan on waterpump replacement at the same time. They are another weak link and if the Dex has taken out the gaskets, the waterpump seals may not be in the best condition.
I don't change them when I do the manifold, but have had to change a couple within the years afterward.

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Post by Jim »

I just got back from the dealer, they estimate the job to cost $525. :o I looked in the manual to see how bad the job is, it doesn't look to involved the FI set up doesn't even need taken off to remove the manifold.
I already flushed with BG cleaner and switched to green with BG sealer two months ago. The water pump has already been replaced once The dealer said it might need a seal kit $40 or so but they won't know until it's apart. I don't know what kit that would be do you? Whoever does the job at the same time I want the heater hoses and rad hoses replaced.
After this the only PITA things to go wrong are the heater core and the transmission :shock:
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

The gasket/seal kit comes with the upper manifold seal. I would go ahead and remove it to clean the carbon deposits. I would invest in a fuel pressure regulator and change that while I'm there. The fullsize have been having problems with them at 120,000-150,000 miles.

If the waterpump has been replaced, I would forget it. I don't know what the "seal kit" might be. I am pretty sure it is not needed though.

Hoses last pretty good up here. I would be tempted to continue using them. That would all depend upon condition upon inspection. The lower hose would not have to be removed, and would be an additional task.

I have no doubt that you are capable of the task. It can all be done in a day.
GM data wrote:
Intake Manifold Replacement - Upper
Removal Procedure


Important
The upper intake does not have to be removed to remove the lower intake manifold.

1. Disconnect the breather tube at the air cleaner outlet duct.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct retaining wingnut.
3. Disconnect the IAT sensor harness connector.
4. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct from the throttle body.
5. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
6. Remove the accelerator cable from the accelerator control cable bracket.
7. Disconnect the cruise control cable, if equipped from the throttle shaft and the accelerator cable bracket.
8. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold for the vacuum tank.
9. Remove the power brake booster vacuum hose.
10. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
* The A/C compressor clutch
* The A/C compressor cutoff switch , if equipped
* The throttle position (TP) sensor
* The idle air control (IAC) motor
11. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
* The fuel meter body assembly
* The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
* The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve
12. Remove the engine wire harness clip from the accelerator cable bracket.
13. Move the engine wiring harness aside.
14. Remove the accelerator cable bracket from the throttle body and the intake manifold.
15. Remove the accelerator and cruise control cable bracket from the throttle body.
Leave the accelerator and cruise control cables on the bracket.
16. Remove the PCV valve hose assembly from the intake manifold and the valve rocker arm cover.
17. Remove the bracket for the engine wiring harness from the intake manifold stud.
18. Remove the fuel lines from the fuel meter body assembly.
19. Remove the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
20. Remove the studs for the upper intake manifold.
21. Remove the upper intake manifold.
22. Remove the upper intake manifold gasket from the groove.
23. Discard the gasket.
24. Remove the seal from the fuel meter body assembly.
25. Discard the seal.

Important
Do not immerse the assembled upper intake manifold in cleaning solvent.

26. Clean all sealing surfaces and the inside of the upper intake manifold with a shop towel and cleaning solvent.
27. Inspect the upper intake manifold for the following:
* Cracks or other damage to the exterior
* Cracking or damage to the gasket grooves
* Loose or damaged bolt hole thread inserts
* Damage to the throttle body mounting surface
28. If replacing the upper intake manifold, turn and remove the power brake booster vacuum tube fitting from the upper intake manifold.
29. Remove and discard the seal.
30. If replacing the upper intake manifold, turn and remove the PCV valve cover from the upper intake manifold.
31. Remove and discard the seal.
32. Remove the throttle body if replacing the upper intake manifold.
33. Remove the MAP sensor if replacing the upper intake manifold.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the throttle body, if removed.
2. Install the MAP sensor, if removed.
3. Install the PCV valve cover, if removed, using the following procedure:
1. Install a NEW seal (O-ring) on the PCV valve cover.
2. Lubricate the seal with clean engine oil.
3. Install the PCV valve cover in the upper intake manifold.
4. Turn and lock the PCV valve cover in position.
4. Install the power brake booster vacuum tube fitting, if removed, using the following procedure:
1. Install a NEW seal (O-ring) on the power brake booster vacuum tube fitting.
2. Lubricate the seal with clean engine oil.
3. Install the power brake booster vacuum tube fitting in the upper intake manifold.
4. Turn and lock the power brake booster vacuum tube fitting in position.
5. Install a NEW seal on the fuel meter body assembly.
6. Lubricate the seal with clean engine oil.
7. Install a NEW upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket in the groove of the upper intake manifold.
8. Install the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold.
9. If reusing the fasteners, apply threadlock GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent to the threads of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.
10. Install the upper intake manifold attaching studs.
1. Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the first pass to 5 N·m (44 lb in).
2. Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the final pass to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
11. Install the fuel lines to the fuel meter body assembly.
12. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
13. Install the bracket for the engine wiring harness on the lower intake manifold stud.
14. Install the engine wiring harness bracket nut.
Tighten the engine wiring harness bracket nut to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
15. Install the accelerator and cruise control cable bracket to the throttle body.
16. Install the accelerator and cruise control cable bracket nuts.
Tighten the accelerator and cruise control cable bracket nuts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
17. Install the accelerator control cable bracket to the throttle body and the intake manifold.
Tighten the accelerator control cable bracket studs and nuts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
18. Connect the PCV valve hose assembly to the intake manifold and the valve rocker arm cover.
19. Position the engine wiring harness.
20. Install the wire harness clip to the accelerator cable bracket.
21. Connect the following electrical connectors:
* The fuel meter body assembly (1)
* The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor (3)
* The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve (2)
22. Connect the following electrical connectors:
* The A/C compressor clutch (1)
* The A/C compressor cutoff switch (5), if equipped
* The throttle position (TP) sensor (2)
* The idle air control (IAC) motor (3)
23. Connect the vacuum hose from the vacuum tank to the intake manifold.
24. Install the power brake booster vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
25. Install the cruise control cable, if equipped to the throttle shaft and the bracket.
26. Install the accelerator cable onto the throttle body.
27. Wrap the cable in between the finger of the hook tab and the pulley wall. Make sure that the cable is fully seated in the pulley groove. The cable must not lie outside of the hook tab.
28. Install the accelerator cable to the accelerator cable control bracket.

Notice
* Handle the MAF sensor carefully.
* Do not drop the MAF sensor in order to prevent damage to the MAF sensor.
* Do not damage the screen located on the air inlet end of the MAF.
* Do not touch the sensing elements.
* Do not allow solvents and lubricants to come in contact with the sensing elements.
* Use a small amount of a soap based solution in order to aid in the installation.

29. Install air cleaner outlet duct to throttle body.
30. Install air cleaner outlet duct to MAF sensor.
Tighten the hose clamp to 4 N·m (32 lb in).
31. Connect the IAT sensor harness connector.
32. Install the air cleaner outlet duct retaining wingnut.
Tighten the wingnut to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
33. Connect the breather tube to the air cleaner outlet duct.
Intake Manifold Replacement Lower

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct from the throttle body.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Drain the cooling system.
5. Remove the radiator inlet hose at the water outlet.
6. Remove the heater hose from the intake manifold.
7. Remove the water pump inlet hose form the intake manifold.
8. Disconnect the accelerator control cable from the throttle shaft and the accelerator cable bracket.
9. Disconnect the cruise control cable, if equipped from the throttle shaft and the accelerator cable bracket.
10. Remove the accelerator cable bracket from the throttle body and the intake manifold.
11. Remove the accelerator and the cruise control cable bracket from the throttle bracket.
Leave the accelerator and cruise control cables and the wiring harness on the bracket.
12. Remove the following electrical connectors:
* The fuel meter body assembly
* The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve
* The idle air control (IAC) motor
* The throttle position (TP) sensor
* The A/C compressor high pressure switch, if equipped
* The A/C clutch switch, if equipped
* The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve
* The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
* The ignition coil
* The ignition control module (ICM)
13. Remove the engine wiring harness from the retainers.
14. Move the engine wiring harness aside.
15. Remove the distributor.
16. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve inlet pipe from the intake and exhaust manifold.
17. Disconnect the fuel supply and return pipes at the rear of the intake manifold.
18. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold, if equipped with A/C.
19. Disconnect the vacuum brake booster hose
20. Disconnect the PCV hose assembly from the intake manifold and the valve rocker arm cover.
21. Remove the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
22. Perform the following in order to remove the left front bolt for the intake manifold:
1. Remove the drive belt.
2. Loosen the nut for the power steering pump rear bracket at the side of the engine.
3. Remove the secondary air injection (AIR) reactor pipe bracket nut from the power steering pump rear bracket front stud, if equipped.
4. Remove the nut for the power steering pump rear bracket at the front of the engine.
5. Remove the bolts and the nut for the power steering pump mounting bracket.
6. Leave the A/C compressor, if equipped, and the power steering pump on the power steering pump mounting bracket.
7. Slide the power steering pump bracket forward to access the bolt at the front of the intake manifold.
23. Remove the lower intake manifold.
24. Clean all sealing surfaces.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the lower intake manifold.
Notice
Proper lower intake manifold fastener tightening sequence and torque is critical. Always follow the tightening sequence, and torque the intake manifold bolts using the 3 step method. Failing to do so may distort the crankshaft bearing bore alignment and cause damage to the crankshaft bearings.

Image
Tighten lower intake manifold bolts first pass to 27 in lb, second pass 106 in lb, final pass 11 lb ft.

2. Position the power steering pump mounting bracket.
3. Loosely install the power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and nuts.
4. Install the nut for the power steering pump rear bracket at the front of the engine.
Tighten the power steering pump mounting bracket bolts and the power steering pump rear bracket nuts to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).
5. Install the AIR reactor pipe bracket nut to the power steering pump rear bracket front stud, if equipped.
Tighten the AIR reactor pipe bracket nut to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).
6. Install the drive belt.
7. Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
8. Connect the vacuum brake booster hose.
9. Connect the vacuum hose to the intake manifold, if equipped with A/C.
10. Install the PCV hose assembly to the intake manifold and the valve rocker arm cover.
11. Install the fuel supply and return pipes to the rear of the intake manifold.
12. Install the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve inlet pipe to the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold.
1. Tighten the EGR valve inlet pipe intake manifold nut to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
2. Tighten the EGR valve inlet pipe exhaust manifold nut to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
3. Tighten the EGR valve inlet pipe clamp bolt to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Important
In order to install the distributor for the correct engine timing, position the engine to number one cylinder top dead center.

13. Remove the spark plug for number one cylinder.
14. Rotate the crankshaft until number one cylinder is in the compression stroke.
15. Align the two reference marks on the crankshaft balancer (1) and (4) with the two alignment marks (2) and (3) on the front cover.
16. Install the spark plug.
17. Install the distributor.
18. Position the engine wiring harness.
19. Install the engine wiring harness in the retainers.
20. Install the following electrical connectors:
* The fuel meter body assembly
* The EVAP canister purge solenoid valve
* The idle air control (IAC) motor
* The throttle position (TP) sensor
* The A/C compressor high pressure switch, if equipped.
* The A/C compressor clutch switch, if equipped.
* The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve
* The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
* The ignition coil
* The ignition control module (ICM)
21. Install the accelerator cable and cruise control bracket to the throttle body.
Tighten the accelerator cable and cruise control bracket nuts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
22. Install the accelerator cable bracket to the intake manifold and the throttle body.
Tighten the accelerator cable bracket studs and nuts to 12 N·m (106 lb in).
23. Install the accelerator control cable to the bracket and the throttle shaft.
24. Install the cruise control cable, if equipped to the bracket and the throttle shaft.
25. Install the water pump inlet hose to the intake manifold.
26. Install the heater hose to the intake manifold.
27. Install the radiator inlet hose to the water outlet.
28. Fill the cooling system.
29. Install the air cleaner assembly.
30. Install the air cleaner outlet duct to the throttle body.
31. Connect the battery negative cable.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Aug 22, 2009 7:33 pm, edited 3 times in total.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Post by Jim »

HenryJ wrote:The gasket/seal kit comes with the upper manifold seal. I would go ahead and remove it to clean the carbon deposits. I would invest in a fuel pressure regulator and change that while I'm there. The fullsize have been having problems with them at 120,000-150,000 miles.

If the waterpump has been replaced, I would forget it. I don't know what the "seal kit" might be. I am pretty sure it is not needed though.

Hoses last pretty good up here. I would be tempted to continue using them. That would all depend upon condition upon inspection. The lower hose would not have to be removed, and would be an additional task.

I have no doubt that you are capable of the task. It can all be done in a day.
I'd like to do the job myself, but I have found when I have purchased vehicles in the past and plan on only doing body and cosmetic repairs and regular maintenance when the vehicle requires one after the other mechanical repairs I tend to get a bad taste in my mouth toward it and then I don't even want to touch it with a wrench even for an oil change. I'm not at that point with this unit and don't want that to happen with this one. I paid to have the motor mounts and the transfer case installed. I guess I'll pay to have the gaskets done. The independent shop I deal with treats me like a dealer straight time and parts sometimes I make out well cost-wise sometimes not, but it's always done right.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by HenryJ »

I understand where you are coming from about gaining a dislike for a rig after a while.
Jim wrote:... The independent shop I deal with treats me like a dealer straight time and parts sometimes I make out well cost-wise sometimes not, but it's always done right.
Sounds like the way to go. This is one job where time will cost more than parts for sure. You can see that there is a bunch of stuff to be removed.

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Post by AZS10Crew »

I'll check in our shop manual tomorrow at work and let you know.
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Post by Jim »

I'm not sure if the dealer's verbal quote included pulling and cleaning the upper manifold, but if he is saying it may need a seal kit and they won't know until they have it apart, they may have removing the upper in the quote. I'll try to get buy there soon, they are only 2.5 miles from my house and I can hit the dealership with a rock from my place of employment.
Best Regards, Jim
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Post by AZS10Crew »

Time for replacing upper and lower intake manifolds and/or gaskets in our shop time manual is 5.0, I think it was split as 1.9 for the upper and 3.1 for the lower. At my dealership just the labor would be $450 at the door rate of $90/hr., so that estimate ddoesn't seem too far off, if that's what it needs to fix it.
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Post by Jim »

AZS10Crew wrote:Time for replacing upper and lower intake manifolds and/or gaskets in our shop time manual is 5.0, I think it was split as 1.9 for the upper and 3.1 for the lower. At my dealership just the labor would be $450 at the door rate of $90/hr., so that estimate ddoesn't seem too far off, if that's what it needs to fix it.
Thanks for the info, it goes in Monday since I originally asked the cost to replace the intake gaskets because of a leak in the corner, the note on the outside of the key drop envelope will read "Please verify leak and repair" leaving the ball in there court if it's not the intake. Whenever I had a customer tell me what needs fixing I knew there is always an out when they say to repair based on there knowledge only. I'm sure its the intake but I don't want to seem cocky.
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Post by Jim »

Work is done :D all looks like first rate workmanship. Intake is clean and shiny appears no gasket was used at the ends of the intake. I read by a GM tech poster on another forum...the GM gaskets are prone to failure, he said heavy bodied silicone is what the dealers are using to eliminate the problems. The tech found the CPI body had 1/8" of fuel in the base of the connector plug indicating the body is bad and fuel is working its way through the body into the electrical connector. The service advisor suggested replacing the body and injectors he said this is a common problem with the 4.3 and 5.7 motors. Parts would be an additional $895 w/ no additional labor. :shock: I was stuck in a tuff spot, I asked for the usual 10% discount on the parts the parts guy usually gives me bringing it down to around $800 still :shock: After seeing the bill for a total of $1426.21 which is the amount I expected it to be I felt better. The dealer replaces other items while doing the injection they replaced the fuel pressure regulator that was in the $800. Here is the breakdown and pricing.
89017866 GSKT-MANF 3.270 $ 41.21
10108445 Gasket 2.363 $ 1.22
22196 Upper Hose $ 19.74
CC-24 2 Clamps $ .98
8180 B clean $ 3.56
17113205 SEAL - INJC 3.331 $ 29.79
17091432 6 CPI - FUEL 3.300 $ 504.54
17113273 Body Kit 3.734 $ 147.20
19106768 Regulator 3.330 $ 82.64
17113215 Seal Kit 3.270 $ 37.90
PK52 Oil Change *****
25171377 Filter 1.836 $ 6.45
Motor Oil 10 $ 10.60
Total Parts $ 889.39
Total Labor $ 456.09

Total without Tax $1345.48

Runs new so far and no leaks just empty pockets :(
Best Regards, Jim
2004 Tahoe, Summit white, loaded up. 06 front air dam, wood interior trim, Shaved Roof Rack, Escalade rear vents, LED Tails, SLP dual cat back exhaust w/ Flowmaster 70 muffler, 20 inch 07 Sierra wheels.
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Re: Intake gasket replacement

Post by HenryJ »

An excellent walkthrough with photos: Replacing Intake Manifold Gaskets

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Re: Intake gasket replacement

Post by rlrnr53 »

That is the best how-to that I have seen. It must have taken someone a long tim to do, not to mention the time taken for the actual repair.
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Re: Intake gasket replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

rlrnr53 wrote:That is the best how-to that I have seen. It must have taken someone a long tim to do, not to mention the time taken for the actual repair.
You better believe it ! I'm hanging on to that one. I bookmarked it to my computer, but it seems to me this should be filed to our stickys.
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