Loose gas tank

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DLP
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Loose gas tank

Post by DLP »

While I was under the truck tonight checking for leaks and such. I noticed the rear tank trap bolt was about 1" loose. It apears that the bolt had vibrated loose at some time. As I started to tighten the bolt back up, the nut holder (for lack of a better name) broke loose from the frame. It (the nut) is inside a frame cross rail. Now the bolt spins with the nut. Any one else have this issue? I think I will jack up the tank and cut the bolt off and replace it with a new one. Might be fun trying to hold the new nut inside the frame. Any thoughts?
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Post by F9K9 »

I found my tank strap loose while I was preparing for last years Moab trip and found resistance when tightening it. I soaked it for a couple of days to go further in the process but, that is not helping your situation. Better wait for other ideas before I post what I have learned in Jeep forums. Our rigs are getting older and often preparation for a week or two before the work is performed is becoming more important.
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Post by DLP »

I would have PB blasted it. But it looked harmless enough as I turned the ratchet. O-$#!! as it poped and spun before I had a chance to even react!
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Post by F9K9 »

DLP wrote:I would have PB blasted it. But it looked harmless enough as I turned the ratchet. O-$#!! as it poped and spun before I had a chance to even react!
No one is blaming you. I would have done it myself if, I hadn't had a couple of yrs working on pos heeps lately. They just broke me bad is all. Let's wait on Brule or someone else before we accept reality in this situation. :lol:
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Post by HenryJ »

I would consider a nutsert, or spring retention nut to replace the welded nut. Hard to say what would work the best.

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Post by F9K9 »

DLP wrote:............it looked harmless enough........
Mine did too. I was born in MI and something always raises alarms in me when anything that has spent time there becomes difficult to tighten or loosen. The resistance creates heat and I was told that sometimes that is bad. I am anxious to try the candle wax theory that I have recently learned that frees up frozen bolts. I haven't pack any yet in my trail bag but, it sounds plausible.
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:I would consider a nutsert, or spring retention nut to replace the welded nut. Hard to say what would work the best.
I knew he would drop by to answer your question. All you have to do is research the answer, solve it and let us all know how it worked. Thanks, Brule
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Post by DLP »

I would just tack-weld a nut to the support. But it's a little too close to the big black plastic thing that might go boom! That wouldn't be good. I am heading out tonight to get a measurement on the bolt size. I belive once I cut the bolt, I can weld a stem on the new nut to hold it in place inside the support. No way to get an open-end wrench or socket in there. Hide and watch. I will be back!
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Post by DLP »

I got the bolt cut off. What a POS mounting tab. The nut has a square coller that fits between the walls of the crossmember. The clip that holds the nut to the crossmember has 2 small tabs that hold it together. The bolt vibrated loose and the tabs rusted through alowing the nut to spin inside the crossmember. I hacksawed the bolt off and pulled the rest of the bolt out. As much as I hate to replace this with the same POS. It would be the easiest way out. At 130,000 miles, It wont be long before I have to drop the tank to replace the pump. I will use a little antisieze on the new bolt.



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Post by 04crewvt »

Just goes to show, if you see that color on a fastener stop- spray with Deep Creep for a few days - then remove
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:..........spray with Deep Creep for a few days..............
Do we have a Deep Creep convert? Mention anything other that the miracle "PB Blaster" on a heep forum and prepare to be flamed......lol! I think it is much better.
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Post by 04crewvt »

It is sure better than wd-40 been using it for a while now got tired of breaking of bolts. Never tried PB Blaster.
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Post by DLP »

I got a new nut and bolt from our local auto store. The clip is beefier but I don't know if I like the tube type nut. I used a little locktite and a jam-nut at the end for good measure.


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Post by HenryJ »

That type spring clip retention nut will work just fine. You may need a dab of Loctite to keep it from loosening.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:That type spring clip retention nut will work just fine. You may need a dab of Loctite to keep it from loosening.
Playing devil's advocate here, Brule. Why not use anti seize (gawd, why did I ever bother to learn "'I before 'E' except, after 'C' ") when it is a fastener that you know you will have to readdress in the future?
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Post by HenryJ »

The straps tend to loosen. Loctite will prevent the oxidation that damages it too. I would rather have to cut it again and not worry about it loosening up.
Anti-sieze may not be the wrong answer either if it doesn't loosen due to vibration.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:The straps tend to loosen. Loctite will prevent the oxidation that damages it too. I would rather have to cut it again and not worry about it loosening up.
Anti-sieze may not be the wrong answer either if it doesn't loosen due to vibration.
Sounds logical to me. I use the heck out of it for other applications. Front wheel bearing assemblies for starters. I hit all contact surfaces. Just want to make a trail or roadside repair a little easier.
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Post by DLP »

I used medium blue on the nut and few threads of the bolt. Then antisiezed the rest of the bolt. I will check the strap for when I change the oil and grease it.
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