Truck making a sqeaky noise *muddy brake pads

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paintballrocker
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Truck making a sqeaky noise *muddy brake pads

Post by paintballrocker »

as the title says my CC is making a sqeaking noise from the rear. I already ruled out the mew tires becuase it did this with the old tires. It makies the noise with every rotation of the tire, meaning the fast i go the louder/faster the sound is made, i dont think its anything to worry about because it doesnt make a metal n metal grinding noise, just a rubber on metal sound.

any suggestions as where to check? its really annoying!
thanks!
[size=75]2002 CC, westin push bar with 2 lights, bed cover, custom made cat-back exhaust.......soon a steering stabilizer mod, lift, sounds system[/size]
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Post by blakeboys »

Real wheel bearing? First I'd check a bend brake pad. Replace wouldnt hurt either. Real possibility since we have 4wheel abs. A bad/bent brake pad caused my girlfriends car to recently squeak like hell.
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Re: Truck making a sqeaky noise

Post by HenryJ »

paintballrocker wrote:any suggestions as where to check? its really annoying!
The parking brake shoe? Sticky caliper?

Try setting and releasing the parking brake to center the shoe. If it doesn't set properly it may need adjustment or a new shoe.

If you have a sticky slide pin on the caliper you may see one pad wearing more than the other.

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Post by F9K9 »

Driver's side rear brake caliber slide pins are notorious for locking up. Keep them clean and use quality high temp brake caliber grease on them. Mine locked up when they were 2 yrs old. What's a slide pin?

The answers are here, somewhere. :wink:
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Post by roadrunner »

Don't forget to check those u-joints. Mine is currently doing the same thing but I know from past experience that is what is going on plus it's due for a lube job anyway.
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Post by paintballrocker »

thanks for the quick relpies guys!

hopefully 2moro me and my bro are gona look at the rear, i was thinking the same things as you guys either brakes or u joints.

what causes the brakes to lock up like your talking about?

thanks
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Post by F9K9 »

paintballrocker wrote:...........what causes the brakes to lock up like your talking about?......
There's two schools of thought on that.
1. The FM theory. Friggin' Magic.
2. Non swimming water fowl.
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Post by paintballrocker »

:lol:
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Post by F9K9 »

I really do not know why it occurs but, it is a good idea to check them at each oil change. Once you check them or work on them, it is much easier/faster the next time you look at them.
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Post by PGH04ZR5 »

While your looking at the brakes take a look at the e-brake cable and its metal hanger in the rear drivers wheel well, mine will begin to squeak from time to time and i need to put different material in to stopthe rubbing.
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Post by paintballrocker »

well ive found out what the nosie was. turns out it was a bad u joint on my rear driveshaft. i bought a new one 2day from autozone along with some new rear diff fluid, incase any water seeped in when i got stuck last time
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Post by roadrunner »

Be aware (if you are not already) our CC's have injected plastic u-joint retainers. If it has been replaced before it will have internal spring lock clips holding the joint in. If not you will need to heat the cap bosses hot enough to melt the plastic sufficiently to be able to remove the u-joint caps. Don't get too carried away with the BFH on re-install either as those aluminum drive shaft yokes can be sprung with overly energetic pounding.
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Post by F9K9 »

You are aware that you will need to melt the plastic out covering the caps?
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Post by paintballrocker »

:lol: well i am aware of it now. thanks tho becuase i did not know that before.
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Post by F9K9 »

I've not replaced mine yet but, I ran into this crap on the front DS of the Rubicon on the differential end. You have to get the plastic super hot to have it run out of the ujoint and them press or hammer it out. Normal clips can be used as retainers once the original yoke is cleaned up.

It is definitely a DIY job with patience and the right tools. I mangled a seal that will not be a problem on the CC's rear DS (they don't have them) and after wasting a large amount of time I went custom. Should be some good write ups on ZR2USA.com for you to reference.

I just didn't want to see you try to press out the oem caps with the plastic still intact. I have seen some pretty wild pics of broken windows and drywall damage when the caps are attempted to be removed with the plastic crap intact.
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Post by paintballrocker »

are there any threads or write ups on how to replace the ujoint, my brother is gona help me but i want o kno if there is anything special about S10 ujoints
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Post by F9K9 »

Search here and here! It's there, I promise. I just don't have the time right now to toss links at you. Sorry! :(
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Post by paintballrocker »

its cool, id just thot we had something i missed when i searched
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Post by paintballrocker »

well i just spent 2.5 hours replacing my ujoint, spent im geussing an hour and a half just heating the thing up! :twisted:

so anyways after i got it al assembled back together i drove it around the block, still making the noise :?: :cry:

so after my bro had a cold one and we ate it turns out some mud from my last offroading trip was on the brake pads and rotor causeing the noise
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Post by F9K9 »

You are not the first to perform a repair like that. :lol: Bottom line is MUD+DD do not mix well. Stay away from the stuff. If, it is on a trail then negotiate your way around it or stay at the edges. It really plays havoc on rigs. I don't care how much you clean your rig afterward, the next time you are underneath wrenching......you will get an eyeful!
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Post by paintballrocker »

yeah thats pretty much how it was lol
[size=75]2002 CC, westin push bar with 2 lights, bed cover, custom made cat-back exhaust.......soon a steering stabilizer mod, lift, sounds system[/size]