Overheating problems

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jon x doe
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Overheating problems

Post by jon x doe »

:twisted: I have been having overheating problems with my S-10 for years. Mainly in the spring/summer when I use my A/C. Any help? 1994 S-10 V-6 F/I, 5-speed manual, A/C, All stock. I just replaced my water pump and hoses (pump leak) and have had the cooling system flushed about every 2 years.
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HenryJ
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Post by HenryJ »

Does it seem a bit "boggy" lacking on power? I'd suspect that the cat could be plugging.

When you floor it you will feel it struggling a bit , hear the "buwahha" of the intake and it will really push the temp up.

Another idea would be the fan clutch. Look for signs of oil leaking at the hub, excessive looseness, and it should move smoothly (engine off ;) )

If everything else is in good tune, watch the radiator for signs of bubbles while it's running or have it tested for a blown head gasket.

Just some ideas ;)

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Maybe not

Post by jon x doe »

I have had this problem for so long I just thought it was a problem with the engine/cooling system. I have replaced the fan clutch, belts, thermostat, hoses, over the years.

As to the cat. convter the power seems to be OK, no stalling or rough idle. I have experienced the clogged cat problem on another car. Is there an another radiator for the V-6, with a larger core?

One of my co-workers sons was a mechanic for a GMC dealer and said that the problem was common to that engine, both Chev and GMC.
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Post by HenryJ »

You'd have to check with a local radiator shop about a thicker cored radiator. I know that the US built Transpro / Go-dan / Ready Rad replacements use a thicker core, for those S-10's using the plastic tanked aluminum cored radiators. If you still have the copper/brass radiator there is no stock replacement , that I know of ,with a thicker core. You would have to have one built.

I assume that it is indeed too hot and not a misleading gauge , or weak radiator cap.

Best bet would be to ask a reputable local radiator shop for some answers.

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overheating

Post by snowsurfer »

I no longer have a V6 in my S10 but a V8 350cu in so you can imagine the possible heating problems. After doing a number of V8 swaps I've come to learn that the distance between fan and radiatior is extremely important, a 1 to 2 inch is all you would want and also having a fan shroud is very important. On some of my first swaps I put a 3 core custom made radiator but thru experience fan distance, flex lite fan, and a proper shroud is the way to go. I run about 185 degrees and I'm in Hawaii with a small alum. radiator.
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Post by a2b »

yeah i had a 4.3 in my last full size truck with the 5 speed and it over heated the whole time i had the truck.



i never stopped but you know what i found out to be the biggest problem.



there was lots of dirt clogged in the fins of the radiator :shock:



and i had shop after shop try to figure it out.



i bought it with 125k on it, so i guess who ever had it went thru alot of mud and dirt
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Post by dhawke »

Is this over-heating thing going to be a problem with my '03?



I was sitting in a drive-thru, a couple of days ago with the AC running and the fan locked in solid. The guage was only showing a bit over 210 and it was about 90 deg. outside.



The fact that the fan was running flat out without the truck being under any real kind of load worried me.



The guage was steady at 210 when the fan came on, so it didn't look like the thing was going to overheat right there. But it was still enough to make me worry about it being a problem if I ever really towed anything or if it every gets hotter outside.
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Post by barch97 »

That's pretty much what's suppose to happen. When the truck is moving, there is plenty of air flowing through the radiator and dissipating the heat. But, when you're sitting still at idle, the fan engages to draw air across the radiator. As far as being under load... yeah, I'd keep a close eye on the temp gauge if you're towing a trailer or have the bed loaded up and it's more then 90 degrees outside.
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Post by QnsRyche »

yea im thinking about a 180 t stat.... do i have to mess with the computer?
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Post by AZS10Crew »

My fan kicks into high pretty much every day driving home here in Phoenix. Yesterday my temp on the roof console showed 116* the whole 45 minute drive home and my fan kicked into high at least 10 times. The temp gauge hit two marks past 210 a few times. It's pretty normal. It's when the gauge gets 3-4 marks+ past the 210 that you have to start to worry...especially if the fan hasn't kicked in yet.
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Post by HenryJ »

QnsRyche wrote:yea im thinking about a 180 t stat.... do i have to mess with the computer?
The 180* stat will work even in the "touchy PCM'd" '01's, BUT only with the stock radiator.

If you plan on installing th bigger radiator, save your money. I still haven't figured out a way to use my 180* stat , YET.

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Post by AZS10Crew »

Why won't the 160 stat work again? Something with the PCM right? Wouldn't an HPPIII correct the problem?
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Post by HenryJ »

AZS10Crew wrote:Why won't the 160 stat work again? Something with the PCM right? Wouldn't an HPPIII correct the problem?
HPPIII for the 2001 4.3L does not have the option to add a cooler stat.

Problem:

The 160* stat will set the SES light immediately after the first warm-up.

The 180* stat will set after about three days, with the bigger radiator (less if it is cool out)

The PCM takes it's readings from the IAT (intake Air Temp. sensor) and the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp. sensor) using the two it determines the minimum time for achieving 173* (the minimum temp threashold). If conditions are not met the SES light will be illuminated.

With a bigger radiator the minimum time is up just at the point during warm-up that the thermostat opens allowing a flow of yet unheated coolant, dropping the temp just below 173*. It is a fine line. I'd like to find a way to reflash the PCM to lower the threashold 5* , or raise the time limit another 60 seconds or so.

I have yet to try relocating the IAT sensor. It might buy me enough time to run the 180* stat.

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Post by AZS10Crew »

So would it be better for the IAT sensor to read lower or higher? What about putting a resistor in place of the IAT to trick it into thinking that the intake air is a certain temp? I tried that on my Camaro. I forget which resistor I used, but you just remove the plug from the sensor and insert the resistor. The resistance tricks the PCM into thinking the intake air temp is at a constant 50 deg (or something like that). I never saw any gains from it, but I've heard from people with autotaps that said it worked.



Maybe you could add a resistor in-line from the ECT sensor to the PCM that would effectively increase the reading by say 5-10 deg?



Or maybe we just need an LS1 edit type software for our PCM's. That would work too. :D
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Post by HenryJ »

IAT lower would be better in this case.



You are now thinking along the same lines I am.

I'm not smart enough to know what resistor or transistor would be needed.

An LS1 edit"like" program for the 4.3L would be ideal.

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Overheating

Post by Azreloader »

Does anyone make a decent electric fan set-up for our trucks? Seems like that would work better at slower speeds. (like the southbound 101 on any work day) :!:
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Re: Overheating

Post by a2b »

Azreloader wrote:Does anyone make a decent electric fan set-up for our trucks? Seems like that would work better at slower speeds. (like the southbound 101 on any work day) :!:


the clutch fan works too good, if really want, just put one on in front of the radiator, you can have both :D
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Post by Dragonmaster »

What I find helps when the truck starts to overheat is put the truck in a lower gear. It turns the fan faster and will draw more air across the rad. Or you can do what a lot of others have done and put a pusher fan in front of the rad on an auxillary switch so you can just flick it on when the temp gets high.
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Post by a2b »

Dragonmaster wrote:What I find helps when the truck starts to overheat is put the truck in a lower gear. It turns the fan faster and will draw more air across the rad. Or you can do what a lot of others have done and put a pusher fan in front of the rad on an auxillary switch so you can just flick it on when the temp gets high.




thats what i just said :D



ya, and if you drop a gear, dont drop to 2nd, or you will have an overheating tranny as well :wink:
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Post by TNC »

:?: Is there anyway to connect the AUX fan into the thermostat so it will kick on... before the power-sucking clutch fan kicks in??? Any ideas besides the manual switch... With MAX AC and the heat killin' power and robing gas milage...
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Post by HenryJ »

TNC wrote::?: Is there anyway to connect the AUX fan into the thermostat so it will kick on... before the power-sucking clutch fan kicks in??? Any ideas besides the manual switch... With MAX AC and the heat killin' power and robing gas milage...


Piece of cake...

There is a plug in the water passage just in front of your thermostat housing, install one of the thermostatic switches that other cars use. (Honda civic used a 160* , VW had one that was 190* , etc.)

Your local auto parts store should be able to hook you up with the temp range you are looking for , with the right threads or an adapter to fit.

Then wire it to activate the fan relay.

Add an override switch inside too, so you can turn it on manually too.

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Post by AZS10Crew »

HenryJ wrote:IAT lower would be better in this case.



You are now thinking along the same lines I am.

I'm not smart enough to know what resistor or transistor would be needed.

An LS1 edit"like" program for the 4.3L would be ideal.


Well...the place I first learned about the IAT resistor mod was over at www.camaroz28.com Check on their message board in the V6 Tech section. Search for IAT and you should find something there. I'll try and poke around there to see if I can find it too if you can't.
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Post by TNC »

HenryJ wrote:
TNC wrote::?: Is there anyway to connect the AUX fan into the thermostat so it will kick on... before the power-sucking clutch fan kicks in??? Any ideas besides the manual switch... With MAX AC and the heat killin' power and robing gas milage...


Piece of cake...

There is a plug in the water passage just in front of your thermostat housing, install one of the thermostatic switches that other cars use. (Honda civic used a 160* , VW had one that was 190* , etc.)

Your local auto parts store should be able to hook you up with the temp range you are looking for , with the right threads or an adapter to fit.

Then wire it to activate the fan relay.

Add an override switch inside too, so you can turn it on manually too.
I think I am going to give that a try... Thanks for the Info.... I'll look into it more indepth and let you know how it goes...
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