Wheel bearing #4

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04crewvt
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Wheel bearing #4

Post by 04crewvt »

As header says I am now on my 4th right hand wheel bearing in the crew since I got it in 2004 75K on the rig, 2 failed due to ABS sensors getting corrosion in them and 2 the bearings themselves went. Sure wish these were a sturdier design and yes there have been 3 different after market brands so it seems not to matter what I put in it. At least this last one is supposed to have a lifetime warranty so once I jump through the hoops to get it replaced I will have a spare sitting on the shelf for when the left one goes.
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by roadrunner »

Bearings don't last long for me on my vehicles (4 different vehicles) either! Brand seems to make no difference. I blame it on all the washboard roads I drive on here. I try to keep spares on hand as they usually don't have them in stock locally and when I need one it is needed right now.
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by green02crew »

04crewvt, we're not far apart, I have 86k or so on all 4, all original. One does have a bad abs sensor, corrosion. I would go with stock acdelco for those, seem to last okay, other than the sensors which i just pulled the fuse. Stops pretty well without.
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by Cajun »

How do you check for a bad wheel bearing? I've been having some speed related noise that sounds like the passenger side wheel bearing. The noise is louder and faster as speed increases. When the driver's side one went it made a similar noise but it eventually got much louder before I brought it in. I did search the forum before this post and could not find anything that was definitive. Thanks!
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HenryJ
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by HenryJ »

From our website: Front Wheel Bearings Diagnosis

If you lack the tools to do it yourself, a good alignment shop should be able to quickly diagnose them.

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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by sjacoby »

jack the front tire into the air, spin the tire and wiggle it back and forth. You will hear a grinding when turning and may have some lateral movement when shaking the tire grabbing the top and the bottom of the tire. I have replaced 3 so far. One lasted less than 5000 k. Make sure u torque the bearing down to spec...I am pretty sure that this was the reason it did not last. I unfortunately don't have the torque specs. Hope this helps
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by sjacoby »

sorry bit unrelated but green02crew stated that u can pull a fuse to get rid of the ABS light on the dash? I have a blown wheel sensor as well, but am quite happy with no ABS. I just cant stand dash lights!!! haha
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by HenryJ »

Pulling the fuse turns the light on. Turning it off requires the system to be functioning properly.

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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by sjacoby »

guess I will bite the bullet and buy a new sensor. Any suggestions on where to get one for the best buck?
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by 04crewvt »

You might luck out and get away with the sensor only but usually the entire hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced to get system working right again. One of the biggest problems (and I don't know where you are located from your profile) is that corrosion builds up inside the hub when the seal on the sensor goes. Up here the excessive amount of salt from winter roads does a number on them. If the ring inside has dirt or corrosion on it the sensor itself will not fix the problem, If it just a bad wire you would have a better chance with the sensor replacement.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by Cajun »

Thank you gentlemen!
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Re: Wheel bearing #4

Post by huminajumina »

I know this post is kinda old, but I have 2 cents to add aswell!! :lol: I have been through 2 right side wheel bearings, and probably a billion on my '91 extended cab. I haven't had an ABS light but I have had the growling noise, of course I have the 6" superlift so anything that wears out I attribute to the lift. Sometimes you can just turn your wheel till it locks, and pull the sensor and wipe it down real good, and jack the truck and spin the wheel and spray the tone ring down with contact cleaner blow it out, then use a little non-conductive electrical grease around the sensors 0-ring and put it back in, but if the sensor has any wear on it you can assume that the bearing is outside of the usable limit causing the tone ring to wobble and causing an ABS light. A lot of people just replace bearings when that light comes on, and its not a bad decision!! I always put that grease^^ on the sensor though, even on a new hub, to keep that 0-ring from drying up and leaking....