Best CV Boot for Replacement

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Horsehammerr
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Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

Got a split outer CV boot. I've tried to search out the best replacement and not having any luck. Who can suggest the best for my '02. I'm up to 162,000 miles and this is the first one. 8) I've been set up the way it is for 70,000.
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by killian96ss »

Are you trying to repair the boot or replace the CV axle? Dorman and MOOG both make the split style repair boots. If you want a new CV axle I would get one from NAPA auto parts. I have used their "new" CV axles in a few S10's with no problems. They use very thick and pliable rubber boots which are nicer than anything I've seen on other brands, even the factory GM axles. I know someone here recently had problems with a NAPA brand rear axle, but I know for sure their front CV axles are very high quality. I have had bad luck with reman CV axles regardless of brand or store, so I always recommend "new" if its an option.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

All the mechanics are in good shape. It's simply a maintenance issue with the split open boot. I know dust will destroy the CV joint and that is not an option. Was unaware of split style repair boots. Are these boots reliable ? Thanks for the input "killian96ss" :rock:
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by killian96ss »

I don't know how reliable the repair boots are since I've never used one, but if the CV axle is in good condition and doesn't have too much play, a repair boot is far cheaper than a new CV axle.

Steve
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by JaVeRo »

I had a 91 S10 4wd that I used surveying years ago and had to replace a boot quite often due to running a stick thru them in someone's pasture. I liked the thick rubber boots like Killian said. They seemed to last longer than the GM boots or any of the hard plastic replacements.

When my wife started running the mail route I went ahead and bought a set for the crewcab just in case. So far I have not needed them. If I remember correctly, I got them at Advance Auto. They are PTC brand, 6-2374 and 6-2342. I can't guarantee the part numbers are correct since they are still sitting on a shelf.

I never tried the split boots. For what I needed, I did not expect they would last very long.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Jongo88 »

I tried the split boots on my old Blazer and the seem hit the shock.... The shock is very close to the boot. I just replaced the shaft and never had a problem again...
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by roadrunner »

I've tried the split repair boots on a couple different vehicles. Both screwed and glued together types. Waste of time in my opinion. All failed in short order.
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

Advise understood. Ordered two EMPI urethane outer boots. Part # EMP862340D $ 8.86 each. They come with clamps and grease. We'll see.
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

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Next ?? Are there any secret methods to the break down and reassembly in this project ??
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by killian96ss »

Are you referring to replacing the boot or the whole CV axle?

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

killian96ss wrote:Are you referring to replacing the boot or the whole CV axle?

Steve
It's my understanding the whole axle needs to be removed to change the boots. So I guess I'm referring to both since the whole axle needs to be removed and replaced in the long run. :?:
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by killian96ss »

If you are only replacing the boot, you do not need to remove the axle. The repair boots are split down one side so you can slide them on and install clamps. The repair boots are really only meant as a temporary or emergency type repair. A new axle would last a lot longer, but it also takes more time to install and costs a lot more money, so if you can afford it, put in a new axle, otherwise just fix the boot and keep is updated on which brand you used and how long it lasts.

Steve
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by HenryJ »

If you have ordered the replacement boot , rather than the repair boot, you will need to remove the axle assembly to replace the boot.
It has been a VERY long time ago that I did this on my old truck. It is lots of work and time consuming, that is why few just replace the boots. Doing it yourself , the time is cheap labor. My old truck was flanged on both ends , so it differs from these trucks a little. I think these should be a little easier?
I believe you will have to disassemble the pot joint (tulip joint) , on the differential side. Then slide the new boot over the axle to replace the one that is damaged. Be sure to clean things up good and inspect the rollers. If it is questionable because of pitting or wear, consider a rebuilt replacement half shaft.
I have usually replaced the half shaft assemblies rather than just the boots if the axle has more than 100k , or has been run at extreme angles.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by JaVeRo »

This is from my memory of about 15 years ago, it was on an older S10, and I am getting old so I may miss something.

I removed the axle nut at the hub.
I popped the top ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Turned the steering wheel to the side that I was working to give me a little slack in the tie rod. In this position I was able to use a three legged puller to push the axle in. I may have started it pushing in before actually pulling the top ball joint completely out of the knuckle. With the knuckle leaning out you can remove the axle from the hub.

Remove the big clamp from the inside CV joint and slide the axle out with the three legged doodad still attached to the axle. The book calls it a spider assembly. There are two clips that hold the spider assembly to the axle shaft. Remove them and mark the spider assembly so you can install it back the way it came out. There is a recess on one side and not the other. I don't know if matching the splines would make a difference but I made sure it went back on exactly like it came off. I probably marked the axle so the three balls went back in the same slots also.

Now you can remove both boots and install the new ones. I did not try removing the joint with all the balls. I just installed the boot from the other end. The book recommends wrapping the splines with tape before installing the boot to protect it from cuts.

I am 95% sure that GM used a polyurea based grease for the cv joints. Most boots come with a lithium grease. This may be the reason they recommend cleaning out all the old grease. If the boot was busted for a while then you would want to do that anyway. If you find a place to get polyurea based grease, let me know.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

Right now I'm having trouble getting the Ball Joints loose from the Steering Knuckles. Whats the best, easy way to do this ? First time for me. Usually have it done but, a little tight on funds.
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Jongo88 »

A good wack with a BFH....
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

Jongo88 wrote:A good wack with a BFH....
Ah the wonders of modern engineering ! Two lb. or would a six lb. be a better choice ? :blink: :lol:
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by HenryJ »

Two BFH. Do not strike the threaded shaft. Back up the knuckle where the tie rod passes through and strike the side of the knuckle. This will jar or oblong the hole a little freeing the ball joint from the hole. A good hard swat is all it will take the the ball joint will pop loose.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

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Good deal !! Popped right apart. I smacked the Tri-pod away from the diff. on the pass. side with a wood block and the axle popped right off. No access on driver side. Any idea how to get this side loose ?
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

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Horsehammerr wrote:Good deal !! Popped right apart. I smacked the Tri-pod away from the diff. on the pass. side with a wood block and the axle popped right off. No access on driver side. Any idea how to get this side loose ?
Can I knock a wedge in between the Tri-pod and Differential to pop this driver side axle loose from Diff. ? :blink:
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by HenryJ »

Try to wedge or pry both sides of the axle. I have popped one loose with two prybars. That snap-ring can be very tight sometimes. Keep in mind that the front differential is VERY easy to drop on these trucks. I do that even for seal replacement. Working on the bench is lots better than working on your back in this case.

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Re: Best CV Boot for Replacement

Post by Horsehammerr »

Tried every form of wedging I could dream up, not happening. Pried every way possible, not! Then I got out my four foot demolition bar with the pry end that's curved about one inch for the first four inches. I was able to get the end up against one of the tri-pot high points and smack the other end one good lick with my trusty two pound BFH and pop, off it came !! :thumb:
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN