Geolandar M/T's and T-bar adjustment

Fitting oversize tires, raising and lowering, suspension modifications...

Moderator: F9K9

User avatar
HenryJ
Admin K Elite
Admin K Elite
Posts: 12705
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
Location: Ontario, Oregon
Contact:

Geolandar M/T's and T-bar adjustment

Post by HenryJ »

TMABES wrote:
Oh BTW I am thinking of geting some 31 " Geolanders soon have you had any problems with them rubbing with just a 2 " lift? I dont feel to comfortable with a T-bar crank. Also if I get larger tires should I get the alignment checked?
Don't feel uncomfortable with adjusting the T-bars. Many of the S-10's are incorrectly adjusted as delivered(z height too low). Park on a level surface load as you would normally drive it. In my case I am usually the only one in it, so 190 lbs in the drivers seat. Then measure the fender heights. I set mine as close to level as possible. A little rake is acceptable (lower in the front)

I had to crank the pass. side (RH) adjuster quite a bit , since the RH side was an inch lower.

Both of my adjusters are approx. 5/16" - 3/8" of threads left showing between the bolt head and the block it threads into.

It is best to jack up the vehicle and relieve as much tension as possible when adjusting the t-bars , lower it , roll it back and forth , then check ride height.

Definately have the alignment checked, some places won't charge for the check , only if they have to adjust it. If you "crank" the bars you WILL need an alignment.

The change in tire size will not require an alignment, but you will need to recalibrate the speedometer (I used my HPPIII).

I do believe that with the stock wheels and just a little "crank" of the T-bars you will not rub running the Geolandar M/T's. The closest mine comes to rubbing is at full lock I have about 5/8" clearance on the frame (inside rear) The tires clear the fenders fine, and with the Bushwacker flares that I'm running I would be sure to have problems if anyone would. The flares mount inside the stock fender lip.
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Nov 15, 2002 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK
User avatar
a2b
Mod K Elite
Mod K Elite
Posts: 1765
Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2002 11:20 pm
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Post by a2b »

i wish that i had rub problems on the inside of the frame instead of the fender.



about the t-bars coming from factory being messed up or too low. that is so often the case. i said this in another post, factory settings are supposed to have the t-bars 6 revolutions from the top. so when i origanally did it, i turned 3 cranks to go half way. but it looks like i can go more and i think that my front sits too low and that may be why i seem to have more trouble than anyone with the rubbing issue. so i am going to crank mine all the way up and then back off 3 turns and i know i will be half way up from factory. 8)
[size=75] -HOBIE

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||__\
| ##Budweiser ###### | ||''|"\,__.
|_...__...________ ====| |__|__|...]
"(@)'(@)""""**|(@)(@)******(@)I[/size]
User avatar
HenryJ
Admin K Elite
Admin K Elite
Posts: 12705
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
Location: Ontario, Oregon
Contact:

Post by HenryJ »

Be careful when you tighten the adjuster all the way down! The bolt may not go all the way down to the head. Watch for the "Pork chop" to bottom out in the crossmember. There is a risk of stripping or breaking the adjusting bolt if you over torque it when it is bottomed out.



Trim height specs: Z height (front) 4.6-5 in. , D height (rear) 5.1-6.4 in.



Measure from the pivot bolt centerline down to the lower corner of the lower ball joint in order to obtain the Z height measurement.



Measure D height (not adjustable, requires component replacement) by measuring the distance between the bumper brackets and the top of the rear axle tube.



One revolution of the adjuster bolt = approx. 6mm or .2 in.




(these quotes are from the Helms manual)

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK
User avatar
a2b
Mod K Elite
Mod K Elite
Posts: 1765
Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2002 11:20 pm
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Post by a2b »

HenryJ wrote:Be careful when you tighten the adjuster all the way down! The bolt may not go all the way down to the head. Watch for the "Pork chop" to bottom out in the crossmember. There is a risk of stripping or breaking the adjusting bolt if you over torque it when it is bottomed out.



Trim height specs: Z height (front) 4.6-5 in. , D height (rear) 5.1-6.4 in.



Measure from the pivot bolt centerline down to the lower corner of the lower ball joint in order to obtain the Z height measurement.



Measure D height (not adjustable, requires component replacement) by measuring the distance between the bumper brackets and the top of the rear axle tube.



One revolution of the adjuster bolt = approx. 6mm or .2 in.




(these quotes are from the Helms manual)




nice info :thumb:
[size=75] -HOBIE

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||__\
| ##Budweiser ###### | ||''|"\,__.
|_...__...________ ====| |__|__|...]
"(@)'(@)""""**|(@)(@)******(@)I[/size]
TMABES
New Member
New Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2002 1:23 pm
Location: Savannah Ga

Thanks for the info!!

Post by TMABES »

This site is great!

Every question gets an awnser and there are not any stupid smartasses.

Just a smartass is cool. ya gotta keep stuff funny.



Wow that HPPIII is exspensive but I like it!! is there anything else that can be used to recal the speedo that is a bit cheaper that i can replace with the HPPIII at a later date?



Thanks again!! Tracy
Please ignore typoes, bad puntuation and such QWERTY is a second language! :)
User avatar
HenryJ
Admin K Elite
Admin K Elite
Posts: 12705
Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
Location: Ontario, Oregon
Contact:

Post by HenryJ »

The dealer can set it with the TechII. How much it will cost seems to depend how friendly you are with them. I've heard of people who had it done for $12 and others who got charged $50.

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving!
- ThunderII KE7CSK