Special alignment and custom suspension discussion

Fitting oversize tires, raising and lowering, suspension modifications...

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roadrunner
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Post by roadrunner »

Okay Steve, now that you've thrown the "chum" out on the water, what "custom settings" are you running? Inquiring minds want to know. 8)
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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killian96ss
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Post by killian96ss »

The factory settings for 2000 to 2004 4wd S10's are:

Left Caster (Min) +1.8 (Max) +3.8 (Preferred) +2.8
Right Caster (Min) +2.3 (Max) +4.3 (Preferred) +3.3
Left & Right Camber (Min) -1.0 (Max) +1.0 (Preferred) 0.0
Left & Right Toe-In (Inches) (Min) -0.05 (Max) +0.15 (Preferred) -0.05 Each Side Or -0.10 Total Toe

The settings I used on my 01 CC and currently use on my 05 ZR2 are:

Left Caster +3.7
Right Caster +4.2
Left & Right Camber -0.10
Left & Right Toe-In (Inches) -0.10 (Total Toe)

I like to run maximum caster for high speed stability and increased handling plus zero to negative camber for increased handling and longer tire life.

My settings may not be ideal for everyone, but if you feel that you drive you truck hard like me, then these settings are pretty good. :wink:

You should see the settings I use on my SS:

Camber -1.0 (-2.5 in road course mode :rock: )
Caster (L) +6.5 (R) +7.0

Steve
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Horsehammerr
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Post by Horsehammerr »

I was under the impression that the more positive caster you have the tighter the turning in corners. Mine has a very sure feel on the straight, but almost fees to tight in corners. My Cooper Cobra GT Radials, 275/60/15 mounted on 3 3/4" back space 8x15 alum. wheels hold as good as I have the guts to drive. I run 35lbs front 32lbs rear air pressure, checked daily, with major good wear factor on all four corners. But it still feels a little tight in corners. I'm sitting dead level with the front cranked up 1 1/2" on Bilstien HDs all around. Sorry I don't have the alignment specs but I know on level concrete my fronts are dead plumb, no camber. What do you think Steve ? 8) :rock:
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killian96ss
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Post by killian96ss »

0 camber is good for long tire life, and if you drive real hard a little bit of negative camber will actually improve handling and tire life!

The perfect settings all depend on how you drive.

I personally drive everything as if it were a Porche. :lol:

Increased positive caster does improve high speed stability and handling with the only draw back being slightly increased turing resistance at slow speeds.

When you increase caster the the tires will roll over harding into negative camber when cornering which keeps the tire planted better by keeping the footprint flatter.

If you don't have enough positive caster you will wear the outside edges of the tires faster and straight line stability will suffer.

When you get an alignment the most important things to ask for are 0 camber and slighty increased caster over factory settings. :wink:

It is also a good idea to have .50 more caster on the right side to compensate for road crown which will make the vehicle drive straighter on most roads.

Steve
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Horsehammerr
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Post by Horsehammerr »

I'm considering full neoprene bushings on the whole truck, I like the idea of no roll or flex. When I do this I will put a complete new front end under it also. Maybe tube A-arms and Coil-over shocks, I really would like the front to be stiffer. Any suggestions ? I do like the Porche driving attitude as well ! I've considered lowering it a little but my tires hit the top of the wheel wells on hard dips and some fast corners now. Thats why I think a stiffer suspension is what I need ?? Chuck
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
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killian96ss
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Post by killian96ss »

Horsehammerr wrote:I really would like the front to be stiffer. Any suggestions?
If you drive off road much I would stay away from polyurethane bushings because they attract dirt and move around in the sleeves too much causing slight alignment changes as the suspension cycles.

I have polyurethane bushings on my 88 S10 and they move around a little plus they have been atrracrting dirt since they were installed.

A better option (if you ever go off road) would be some thermoplastic MOOG problem solver bushings.

They are made out of a high durometer rubber and bonded to the sleeves like the originals.

If you don't already have some Bilstein shocks, get them since they are far better than the factory shocks.

I don't think coil overs are an option on 4wd S10's without relocating the shock mounts on the control arms because the CV shafts are in the way.

Get some Energy Suspension polyurethane sway bar bushings and end links (big improvement in handling).

A rear sway bar or a bigger leaf spring pack will also help handling.

When I had my CC it handled amazingly well for a body lifted truck! :D

I had Rancho RSX shocks, polyurethane sway bar bushings & end links, Summit rear helper springs, Daystar polyurethane greasable 1-1/2" lift rear shackles, 1" T-bar crank, and custom alignment settings.

You might also be able to get some higher rate torsion bars that would stiffen up the front some. :shrug:

Polyurethane body mounts would reduce body flex which in turn would make the suspension do more work and promote better handling.

Tubular upper a-arms would help a little if they have polyurethane bushings, but it's probably not worth the expense (the factory a-arms don't flex very much!).

Not much else I can think of right now for 4wd S10's, but there are more options for the 2wd S10's! :?:

Steve