Get a loaner kit from whichever auto parts chain that you have. You basically buy it but, get your money back upon the tools return. Don't waste any money on the harbor freight POS. I spread one doing a couple u-joints and upper control arm bushings in a heep axle.HenryJ wrote:............................There is a portable C-clamp style kit that may do the job.......................
No personal knowledge but, I have read allot about people breaking the cheap tools removing them and then buying a tool from snap-on. The one trick that I will try is to soak it with PB Blaster or similar product and then just tapping on the sides of the arm with a ball peen hammer after applying a little pressure with a tool. I've changed out several tie rod ends just by tapping on sides of the collar holding the tre and was amazed how they just fell off when the bolt was removed.Horsehammerr wrote:......... Any advice on that Pitman change................
I changed mine with the box off when I made the swap to a ZQ8 box.Horsehammerr wrote: Any advice on that Pitman change, seems a little cramped for access ?
Horsehammerr wrote: Any advice on that Pitman change, seems a little cramped for access ?
Horsehammerr wrote:Will the ES3462 MOOG problem solver bent end outer tie rod end work ? I think I ordered the wrong part.
_STUCKY wrote:What control arm bushings did you use?
I'm of no use on answering your question, sorry.
Horsehammerr wrote: Energy Suspension 3.5207R Gm 4WD Front Sway Bar $30.95
Horsehammerr wrote: MOOG K6418 Control arm bushing Kit
_STUCKY wrote:Horsehammerr wrote: Energy Suspension 3.5207R Gm 4WD Front Sway Bar $30.95
Weird, the part number I put on was 3.5207G. It's black greasable bushings. I'm guessing yours are red non greasable?Horsehammerr wrote: MOOG K6418 Control arm bushing Kit
Did this have everything needed?
Horsehammerr wrote:Now the problem : Before this rebuild of my steering, the alignment has always been a simple adjustment by my favorite shop. This shop has gone out of business and I can't locate the man who did my work. I have had my truck into two shops for a total of FIVE tries and neither shop can get caster, camber, or toe set right. As far as anyone can find, everything is straight and true. What can I do ? The thing is a very uncomfortable drive, a little chase back and forth down the road.
Everything replaced in correct position. Torsion bars have been at the exact same position for the past four years and no problem with alignment in the past. Only thing different is everything new . I finely got out my string line and level and did the old DIY alignment I've done for years. my past goes at this were done on shim type upper control arms, they are a lot more exacting and accurate in the home shop. Those D**N cams on bolts are very touchy and you get real familiar with getting under the truck and back out , over and over. The caster is the hardest to get right and keep camber at 0 degrees. The toe setting is pretty tough with homemade twist and slide plates but , I'm there now and very satisfied.killian96ss wrote:Horsehammerr wrote:Now the problem : Before this rebuild of my steering, the alignment has always been a simple adjustment by my favorite shop. This shop has gone out of business and I can't locate the man who did my work. I have had my truck into two shops for a total of FIVE tries and neither shop can get caster, camber, or toe set right. As far as anyone can find, everything is straight and true. What can I do ? The thing is a very uncomfortable drive, a little chase back and forth down the road.
What were the reasons those shops couldn't set your alignment? As far as I can tell, you didn't replace anything that would cause this kind of problem unless you put the upper arms back on the wrong sides?
How difficult was it to install the bushings?
I've got vague steering issues - my truck builds up a "death wobble"/squirmy feel at speed, and the shocks have gone all floaty on me. I've got new shocks ordered, and the Moog K6418 kit on the way as well.
Once I get these all installed, I have a plan to replace my steering rag-joint too.
Have you replaced them before? It's pretty normal. I would do the Daystar kit if, it is still available.adrenalnjunky wrote:........Most perplexing - I can see where the swaybar has been moving laterally about an inch or inch and a half. there's wear marks on the outboard side of the drivers side bushing. What causes this?.......
Moog has gone downhill fast recently. While, I can't tell you about the "house" parts, I wouldn't worry about having to stick with Moog. Rockauto offers several different companies for the various parts that they carry.adrenalnjunky wrote:...............Also - are the MOOG idler and pittman that much better than the Orielly's or Advance house brands? at about 2/3 the price, the house brands look pretty appealing right now, with lifetime warranty.
Bingo.Horsehammerr wrote:...I did remove the actuator to replace the axle seal, could I have reassembled out of order and caused this malfunction ?
_STUCKY wrote:HenryJ wrote:BTW, I never did find any pictures of this process when I did one.
Translation: take pictures please
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