33's without fender flares, or maybe 31"?

Fitting oversize tires, raising and lowering, suspension modifications...

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33's without fender flares, or maybe 31"?

Post by kxracer »

Is anyone running 33's with a BL/torsion/shackle lift, and not using any type of fender flares? I would like to see pics if you have them. I'm just really nervous about trimming my fenders. Also, anyone running 31's with the above mentioned lift with rims that have 4.5" of B/S? If so, did you have to trim your fenders, or were they alright? Pics of that would be helpful to, thanks.
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Post by 04crewvt »

You will have to do the fender cuts to fit 33's if done right they look good without flares I think I recall some threads that show the cuts without flares around somewhere search on the Marvelous Mystery Lift and see what you come up with.
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Post by HenryJ »

JC (jedthrocornpone) has done a nice job on his truck and it is flareless.

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Post by kxracer »

Cool, I will look both those up. What about 31's with 7" wide rims that have 4.5" backspacing? Will I have to trim to fit those? (thinkin MT baja MTZs if that matters)
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Post by 04crewvt »

Anything above 30's will likely need the cuts, there is just not that much room in our fender wells, especially if you reduce the backspacing. If you never go off road you might get away with it but take it off the street/dirt road and it will rub.
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Post by kxracer »

04crewvt wrote:Anything above 30's will likely need the cuts, there is just not that much room in our fender wells, especially if you reduce the backspacing. If you never go off road you might get away with it but take it off the street/dirt road and it will rub.
Thanks, thats what I figured. :( Oh well, I will look into the fender cuts for 33s.
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Post by kxracer »

04crewvt wrote:Anything above 30's will likely need the cuts, there is just not that much room in our fender wells, especially if you reduce the backspacing. If you never go off road you might get away with it but take it off the street/dirt road and it will rub.
What about running 1" spacers in the front with stock rims on 31's? Would I still need to trim, or would I be alright. I like how the tires look sticking out a little, I think it makes it look a little more aggressive.
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Post by 04crewvt »

If you are putting on the body lift you should be able get away with it but you would have try it on your rig to see if there will be enough clearance with the tire you want. You will need to flex the suspension and see if it rubs anywhere. The lower rear corner does not have much wiggle room for larger tires. Without a body lift my truck with 30's (29.3" actual size) and 1in spacers will hit the top of the flare under extreme flex but it is bearable, I only have about 1/4" from the tread to the lower corner of the fender when flexed, YMMV since each of these rigs seems to be just a bit different.
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Post by HenryJ »

kxracer wrote:What about running 1" spacers in the front with stock rims on 31's? Would I still need to trim, or would I be alright.
Depending upon the tire , as sizes do vary widely, you will get away with some minor trimming and massaging with a BFH.
I did that combination for a while. With time I did get very tired of being so careful not to turn the wheel on a bump or curb cut. They did rub. A street queen can get by if they are careful.

You will need a body lift, torsion bar adjustment to max Z height and some sort of raise for the rear. Choosing a small 31 will help loads and one with a rounded corner lug design. Import cases tend to run smaller those will help a little. The closer to 30 you get the better off you will be.
30x9.50-15 are a less problematic choice.

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Post by kxracer »

HenryJ wrote:
kxracer wrote:What about running 1" spacers in the front with stock rims on 31's? Would I still need to trim, or would I be alright.
Depending upon the tire , as sizes do vary widely, you will get away with some minor trimming and massaging with a BFH.
I did that combination for a while. With time I did get very tired of being so careful not to turn the wheel on a bump or curb cut. They did rub. A street queen can get by if they are careful.

You will need a body lift, torsion bar adjustment to max Z height and some sort of raise for the rear. Choosing a small 31 will help loads and one with a rounded corner lug design. Import cases tend to run smaller those will help a little. The closer to 30 you get the better off you will be.
30x9.50-15 are a less problematic choice.
Cool, thanks. F-that, I will just get 1.25" spacers for the rear and call it good for now. I think the MTZ's are really close to being an actual 31" tire, and they have pretty aggressive sidewalls. I know I will rub the swaybar link, but I remember reading something about fullsize bumpstops that keep that from happening. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Post by 04crewvt »

Not bump stops but steering stops, bump stops are for up and down control of the A-Arm/Wheel assembly, steering stops are for left and right. They need to be added to (weld beads) until the tire won't scrub when the wheel is turned. This will also substantially increase your turning radius so forget about tight parking spaces after modification.
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Post by kxracer »

04crewvt wrote:Not bump stops but steering stops, bump stops are for up and down control of the A-Arm/Wheel assembly, steering stops are for left and right. They need to be added to (weld beads) until the tire won't scrub when the wheel is turned. This will also substantially increase your turning radius so forget about tight parking spaces after modification.
So you wouldn't reccommend doing it then. You still can't make tight turns with the 31s on either can you? IDK what to do, I just don't want the side lugs getting ripped off by rubbing the frame/swaybar links.
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Post by 04crewvt »

To each their own I guess. I am perfectly happy with my truck on 30's with no body lift and just shackles and t-bar tweak. I was able to keep up with stock zr-2's on a class 6 logging road and with care could probably run Moab set up this way by picking my line a little more than the 33 crowd (With Brule and Reed spotting me) I like the ability to drive mine straight off the highway and onto the dirt as needed.
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Post by HenryJ »

kxracer wrote: You still can't make tight turns with the 31s on either can you?
A little tighter if you have less rear spacing.
I just don't want the side lugs getting ripped off by rubbing the frame/swaybar links.
:lol: That won't happen. It does put stress on the suspension components when it gets in that bind. It wedges and forces the a-arms in bad ways. You can try to be careful, but building up[ the stops is the best plan. Then there are no worries.
Building up stops for 33's takes away quite a bit, but you get used to it. It will still turn tighter than a long wheelbase fullsize chevy pickup.

If you are worried about any of this, use the 30's you will not cripple anything. It is the width of the 31" tires that is the problem. If they made a 31x9.50-15 it would work as well as the 30.

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Post by kxracer »

HenryJ wrote:
kxracer wrote: You still can't make tight turns with the 31s on either can you?
A little tighter if you have less rear spacing.
I just don't want the side lugs getting ripped off by rubbing the frame/swaybar links.
:lol: That won't happen. It does put stress on the suspension components when it gets in that bind. It wedges and forces the a-arms in bad ways. You can try to be careful, but building up[ the stops is the best plan. Then there are no worries.
Building up stops for 33's takes away quite a bit, but you get used to it. It will still turn tighter than a long wheelbase fullsize chevy pickup.

If you are worried about any of this, use the 30's you will not cripple anything. It is the width of the 31" tires that is the problem. If they made a 31x9.50-15 it would work as well as the 30.
Thanks, I haven't looked under this truck, but I know the lug on the sides of MTZ's are pretty thin, so I figured it was possible. I will probably run without for a whiile and see if I have any problems. Thanks again to everyone that helped.
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Post by 04crewvt »

I am surprised you lose that little on the turning radius, the 2005 K1500 133" wheel base model has a turn radius of only 42.9ft and the crew cab 143.5in wheel base model is at 46.6ft where my 2004 crew is listed at 41.3ft with 122.9" wheel base. The smallest k1500 actually has a smaller turning radius than the crews at 38.9ft with a 119in wheel base.
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Post by HenryJ »

I have a bunch of fullsize in the fleet. The 2000 Chevy extra cab I am currently driving is not even close to my crew when it comes to a tight turn.
Funny thing is I have 33s on my old first gen and it doesn't really need the stops built up. Must be a narrower frame?
I wouldn't get worried. I haven't measured the circle. There are times where a three point might be needed where you might have made it before. The big tires make up for any inconvenience though.

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Post by kxracer »

Alright guys, new idea on keeping the tires from rubbing. Have any of you, or anyone you know, tried using the 1/4" or 3/8" spacers they make that slide on the stock lugs and go between the rim and hub. It says they need atleast 8 threads showing, so idk if it would work, or if its a good idea. Thanks for any thoughts.
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Post by F9K9 »

I can't keep up with all of Brule's mods but if, he is running 1.25" spacers up front then those "washers" ain't gonna help much.

If, you haven't wheeled a swb wrangler then you will get use to the turning radius lost building up the stops.
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Post by HenryJ »

kxracer wrote:Alright guys, new idea on keeping the tires from rubbing. Have any of you, or anyone you know, tried using the 1/4" or 3/8" spacers ...
Not good. Those are what gave spacers , or adapters a bad name. Unsupported they create leverage against the wheel studs and move the retention of the threaded nut to the end.

Add that they are not going to be even close to enough to help. You need an inch or more.

Just say no. If you REALLY think you want some, I'll sell you the set I have on the shelf. I keep them as a show and tell of what not to use.

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Post by Horsehammerr »

I run 30x9.5 Hankook Dynapro LT RF10's on 8x15 alloys with 3 3/4" back spacing. They would rub BAD on the back edge of the front wheel wells without the SKIDZ cut and the front airdam without the 3/4" cut off on the bottom corner. I am also cranked up on my Torsion bars 1 1/2". The rear suspension is stock high. This rub only happened at full turn. 8)
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Post by kxracer »

cool, thanks guys. I figured that was a bad idea, but I thought it might work. My last truck rubbed the fenders at full turn to, so I guess I can get used to it. I just wish they made 'rockcrawler' wheels that were black with the correct spacing. I am going to end up using the stock wheels off an older blazer, but I will get them powdercoated black. It should look good.