Good choice. As long as you can still properly align it that should be a wise choice.blaz wrote:... I didn't go to the full crank height that RC recommends.
Very helpful! Thanx!The instructions are on line. http://www.roughcountry.com/install/242n2.pdf
Amen. Loads better than the other 2" suspension lifts that do not lower the front differential. How is the availability of the upper a-arm replacement ball joints? Is there and OEM equivalent replacement part?I was looking at this as a leveling kit with better upper ball joints.
If you have any issues with that steering stabilizer, you can install OEM. That is what I did. Most of the first gen blazers had the intermediate rod with the hole. Our trucks had the frame bracket and I suspect you do too. The stock relay rod (intermediate rod) from the first gen is a direct bolt in (plug-n-play) swap.blaz wrote:... The RC bracket does not work because the U bolts would have to mount where the idler arm mounts to the cross link. Another reason to do some FAB work.
I would say the One Ton swap is ill advised. Use the best OEM parts you can find and wait for the aftermarket system:Miles wrote:Blayzer wrote:Jerm,
Do you term it a failure because it doesn't last? How long does it last if you are not out wheelin' with it?
At this point I can't get the regular Moog idler arm to last more than about 3 months of normal street driving.........and that is REALLY pushing it. I should probably change them every 2 months or so for better tire life but I get around that by rotating evry 2500 miles or so. The size and weight of the BFG 32's just seem to put too much of a pounding on the idler and my driving style probably doesn't help. Our streets are in bad shape and I don't slow down through the intersections so the weakest link seems to pay for it lol. I guess I should be happy.............the idler acts like a fuse for the front end!
I had done the 3/4 switch several years ago but there was a little problem with interference when going to full lock (to the right I think) so I switched back and have regretted it ever since.
I am considering going back but it is so much fun switching the pitman out at the same time that I have avoided it.
For the amount of fabrication required to properly fit the 1-ton parts to the S-10 frame, and still have it fail every trip off-road....is a total failure in my opinion. It lasted longer, yes. But was still a failure at the end of the day. Not to mention that the 1-ton Pitman & Idler Arm push the center link further back from their original location, necessitating more mods (moving inner TRE's to front of CL) in an attempt to correct the geometry.....and the fact that full steering to the right is compromised because of inner TRE interference with the frame. It is one big goofy band-aid, with several, several wraps of duct tape added for good measure.
Given a clean slate, I would never go this route again. I would rather leave ALL of the stock parts completely alone and in place, and just find a way to anchor the CL beside the Idler, so that the ONLY thing the CL can do, is arc to the left or right along the original path GM intended. I know what would work....but I doubt it'll ever come to fruition. For what it would cost me to have a professional fabricator build this added component, just to eliminate the weak idler arm problem, I could probably do an SFA!!!
So for now, I'm throwing up the white flag on this long term project. And I HATE giving up!
I'm genuinely impressed with your build and the effort that you have put forth, in doing your research. I've wheeled with Miles, in a couple of different states, and his hardheadedness has amazed me throughout the years. It does sound like he has finally started to accept things may not always be doable. Mind if, I ask where you are located it? It's not showing up for me.blaz wrote:........
I didn't leave "nary a footprint" when I HINTED to you to help us assist you by telling us your location. Please fill out your profile. It helps us all and who knows, there could be a fellow CCer nearby that could lend a hand.blaz wrote:.............I'm located in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. ...........
They appear to be Camaro wheels but, I could be wrong.Horsehammerr wrote:Sure would like to hear about your wheels. Size, brand, back spacing, you the details ? Please ?
Discussion in the private section of TXZR2.com is painfully slow. I don't see any more progress beyond the two prototypes thus far._STUCKY wrote:What's the story on the Cognito Motorsports one? Will that ever see the light of day?
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