Best way to add 5" of lift?

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Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby KnuckleheadS10 » Mon Aug 21, 2017 3:26 am

Hey all, I just upgraded from a 95 extended cab to an 04 CC, and I'm wondering what the best way to go about this is. I've read about the MML (which makes some sense to me but also doesn't reach 5", I think), and I've also read some thoughts on the RC 2.5" lift (though I'm not sure how up to date they are as RC updated their lift I believe). My goal is to add 5" of lift to the truck, one way or another. My current thinking was add the RC lift, Bilsteins, a 2" body lift, and then crank the torsion bar a little to get that last .5". So I guess I'm after:

- Opinions of my current avenue - room for improvement, other ways to go about it, etc?

- more info on the MML - can it reach 5" of lift, is it shackles OR Boise Springworks Kit, and how do you even it out in the front then?

- What tire size I can expect to move to in the end?

I appreciate any input you guys may have.
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Re: Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby Built2Bend » Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:20 pm

I would not add the 2.5in lift and crank them more than rough country says there lift already cranks the torsion bars to the max I wouldent go any further.

If your dead set on 5in about your only option is a 6in lift kit.

Sas

Or go with your idea but don't try to crank the torsion bars beyond rough country's directions.
(Also have you seen you can use a first gen 3in body lift)
1995 s10 reg cab short bed 4 cyl stick (sold)
1998 s10 reg cab short bed 4 cyl auto
2004 Sonoma crew cab v6 auto
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Re: Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby KnuckleheadS10 » Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:15 am

Did not know the 2.5 RC cranked the T-bars, interesting. Also didn't know a first gen 3 in body lift would work either. That would get my 5 in with .5 to spare. Is it basically just drop in?

SAS is a possibility further down the road. We're about to have the family garage built, so right now I'm in the process of just life-proofing the truck as it sits - bedliner swapping the pop in out, making sure the 4.3 stays strong until I can drop a 350 Vortec in, maybe sourcing some leather seats since the drivers side came from the factory with power run to it, etc.
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Re: Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby jedthrocornpone » Fri Sep 15, 2017 11:02 am

I enjoyed the MML got 33's but went SAS And have never looked back.... is 5" a magic number? Is there a specific tire your shooting for?
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Re: Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby KnuckleheadS10 » Sat Sep 23, 2017 1:08 am

Not particularly, I just thought that five would be the best middle ground I could reach through a combo of body, suspension and MML lift. On the SAS, I have soooo many questions. How did you go about building it? Dana 30s, 44s, 60s? How many inches did you gain? How does it handle differently than IFS on street and highway? And have you encountered anything that made it less attractive in hindsight? Frankly having read the things I have about S10 IFS problems and seeing many peoples modest SAS that look really good, the only thing holding me back from it is financial feasability and my own mechanical prowess, or lack thereof.
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Re: Best way to add 5" of lift?

Postby jedthrocornpone » Sat Sep 23, 2017 8:38 am

I hated body lifts!!! Right up until it was required to clear the tires I wanted to run

Now I'm not sure I will ever not have one. They make virtually every aspect of maintenance easier.

The on road driving characteristics changed drastically with the SFA swap. Not bad in my opinion, but you have to be honest with your expectations.

I went from stock, to upgrading the shocks/sway bar links and mount. Truck was like a slot car. Drove level and true through turns until I forced it not to.

Did the MML and it still was very car like. The turning radius is diminished, that was really my only complaint on road. Off road both stock and MML did Okay. Once the sway bar was disconnected the ride was WAY BETTER. As expected the body roll was dramatically increased.

I got so accustom to the smoothness I eventually removed the front sway bar all together. This would have been the end of my monkeying around if I didn't have a bunch of parts gathering dust in my garage. A axle or 3 over there a transfer case or 2 over there..... stuff like that.

My SFA was a "kit" and that's to say it had a prefabricated front crossmember, shackles,and hangers. Every thing else I was on my own. I chose spring over with rancho 44044 leafs. Did spring over in the rear. Used the alignment bolts to set the prefabricated pieces in position and then welded them in. Slid the leafs and axle under and found all kinds of stuff in the way, shed a tear said a handful of obscenities and started cutting. Swapped in a van steering box mounted some ford shock mounts and I have never looked back.

It drives nothing like it did. It's very much like a keep wrangler. The springs a soft on all 4 corners, the weight is high and body roll can be aggressive. I don't drive that way so it doesn't effect me. I added a front anti-rock and a rear sway bar. With the added weight up high of a canopy and a roof top tent it did get a bit wiggly at times.

I've got 40,000 miles on my SFA and I'd do it again in a heart beat.

I do also dream of a 2 door ZR2 blazer with the MML on 33's

SFA is a commitment, MML (with 31's) is just parts swapping. If you don't like it you can go back. Once you cut the fenders to go 33's it is a little more serious but I still have to point out the cuts on mine to people.

As for how much lift, no clue. Didn't measure before, haven't measured after. I had to sit DOWN into the MML versions of my crewcab and with the SFA 33's I just picked up my legs to sit in the drivers seat. With 35's a small "hop" is sometimes needed. I'm 6' ish so hope that helps. When new tire time comes around I'm going for something a tad shorter and a couple inches narrower these 35x12.5r15's are a bit much
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