Sweet deal! I got two carbon fibers for the same price, but was lucky enough to replace the transfer skid with a aluminum skid from a member here, but I sure paid more then $25 bucks for it!
Alright, lots of info here. I beat it to death a month ago, so ill give it to you simple, black and white. Also, search feature is great too.
Engine Skid Diagram.
Im assuming you have no hardware. You are going to need:
Qty. needed-2 Bracket (should include bolt and plate) # 15561150 ($9.30 each at GMpartsdirect.com, it does include the bolt. I paid $15.XX each at a dealership, ORDER FROM GMPARTDIRECT)
Qty. needed-4 Torx Bolt # 14062942 ($5.17 each at GMpartsdirect. Yeah its an ungodly ammount to pay. I asked the guys at fastenal if they could get the bolt for me, they said they had nothing like it. So bite the bullet and get 4 of em. Its a mushroom headed torx step bolt thats self tapping. I had a hard time understanding why it was so hard to find, heres a picture of two I have extra, so you get an idea of what it looks like, and why you need to just go ahead and order it.)
You are gonna need 5 plastic grommet things. They are actually the plastic "nutserts" for license plate holders. Get em at any auto parts store.
And 4 washers, and spring washers for the bolts.
If you 'test fit' the plate around the oil pan area, you will see where the mounting locations are.
The only hard part about installing this skid plate is installing the passanger side mounting bracket. The supplied bolt with the bracket (dont re-use the stock bolts, they are too short. Heres a picture of where you need to install them.
Back on track, the passanger side one is a pain, the supplied bolt is to long, and stock bolts are both too short. One guy here had a 6 pack then decided to pry against his oil pain to fit the bolt in there. I wouldn't recommend that. What I did, was used a bench grinder, to grind off about 1/4" of the bolt. It wouldnt go in. I noticed the bolts have a tappered end, it helps them 'slide' into the hole. So I went back and using the grinder, cut an angle on the bolt. It would almost go in. I ended up taking some channel lock pliers, and compressing the whole, "arm" assembly you are putting this bolt into, while "motivating" the bolt to go in. This would be easier with two people, but I got it in. And still had plenty of thread, and no chance of damaging my oil pan.
Im obviously being very detailed here, so you shouldnt have any questions.
Now the transfer skid.
This one is cake. The front two recessed holes use two existing nuts.
The back 3 holes, you will need three 10mm x 1.25 self taping bolts, and its a hex head. And of course, proper size washers, and locking washers.
I had no luck finding that self tapping bolt. So I ending up tapping the holes and using the same size bolt, and thread lock. Either will work, but I wish I could have found the self tapping ones. (after I bought that aluminum transfer skid plate, it came with three self tapping ones, lol. Of course).
And since were on the topic heres a carbon fiber vs aluminum transfer skid. im glad i got that aluminum one! lots of ground clearance lost to the carbon fiber.
http://photos.imageevent.com/rc_racer_0 ... 20skid.jpg
Clickly the link for the other picture, i broke the 100K limit again!
I thought that was a small size