Has anyone mounted those ammo cans like I did?
I use them all the time. I do not keep the lids on anymore. For the most part they just stay strapped in and I dig through them when I need something. Cheap, simple, effective, just the way I like it.
I am going to finally call my bed lighting situation done. I am very happy with the amount of light I am getting from these little LEDs. Here's the break down:
I bought 2 of these at wal mart. I don't remember how much, but I knew I was overpaying, but wanted to see how bright they were. I think they were about $5-10 apiece, I got 2, for a total of 12 LEDs shining in the bed.
If I was doing it again, I'd buy these. Actually, I did buy 2 rolls of these after being very satisfied with the lights I have. By the way, the day I got the lights from wal mart, I saw a similar light strip that was 1 foot long for $25. That is way, way overpriced for us DIYers. These lights: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QQ ... k121863-20
Then for my switch, I used the blazer tailgate switch. I ended up using the washer fluid button. I wanted the rear hatch button to do it, but I think something is wrong with the switch I have, so washer fluid button it was. Someday I'll get another switch to play around with.
I did have to get my dremil out and cut off this little piece so that the button would work in any position:
I then ran a green wire from the switch, down the dash, under the carpet to the drivers side, and out the grommet for the e brake cable. Then along the frame rail and up the front of the bed, where I put in a grommet and pulled the wires into the bed.
Power came straight from the fuse box under the hood. I used the powered stud at the back passenger side of the fuse box. The wire is ran down the firewall and along the frame rail with the green wire.
Now to make the washer fluid button from the blazer tailgate switch work the way I needed it to, I had to do this:
The information on this is here: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#lsp
I used the "Latched On/Off Output Using a Single Momentary Pulse" method.
The relays and the bracket they are on came from behind the glove box of 88-98 Chevy full size trucks. Take the glove box out and you will see it. I got mine from the junkyard. Other options are available, but you will need to keep you eyes peeled at the junkyards. I mounted my relays just above the rear window of the topper on the trim piece that holds the gas struts. It is out of the way and the elements.
I used one of these at the front of the bed so that if/when I take the bed topper off, it's a simple unplug the wire deal:
For the ground wire, I used a quick disconnect plug from under the hood of a 90 suburban. Any quick disconnect would do. I should have just used a trailer wiring plug, since it has 4 wires, that way I could have had just 1 plug, and it would have an extra wire for future use.
All connections are crimped and have heat shrink tubing put on them. Here is the end result:
The one thing I am not sure about is that I can only switch it on and off when the ignition (and the retained accessory power) is off. I do not know why. At first, this irritated me, but it has grown on me and I don't mind.
So, if you are coping this, the 2 things I would do differently are use the LED strip lights and use a trailer wiring plug. Other than that, I am very happy with it.