Hey guys heres the write up I promised. I did this master cylinder swap n ABS delete because of my solid axle swap. Im not going to go into detail on my swap, if you want to know more you can read my build thread. Anyways its a pretty straight forward swap. Now you could do this delete and keep the stock master if you still have your IFS, but i went with a '80 chevy 3/4 ton master for more stopping power with my bigger tires. Our stock masters have around a 1" bore, and the 3/4 ton has a 1.25" bore, which means more stopping power. Anyways this is how i did it.
Stock master vs the new 3/4 ton masterhttp://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp15 ... /001-1.jpg
All our stock hardlines are 1/4"
All stock line nuts are 9/16"
Stock hardlines from the frame rails up to the ABS module can be reused, you just have to cut off the 9/16" nuts and flare on 7/16" nuts.
The front resovior on the new master is for the back, the rear resovior is for the front.
Master cylinder from an 80 3/4 ton - Cardone #10-1534
7/16-24 x 9/16-18 Brake fitting adapter - Napa #641-3309
7/16-24 x 1/2-20 Brake fitting adapter - Napa #641-3304
Adjustable Proportioning valve, I used a Jegs one - #555-63022
7/16" tube nuts - #BLF-16C-5
1/4" tee fitting - Dorman # 499-070.1 or 343522
A few pieces of 1/4" steel brake line to make up the connections.
First pull off your intake from the filter to the throttle body, pull the air box from behind the head light, dicso the 5 hard lines from the ABS module, pull the 3 electrical connections form the ABS module, and then finally remove the ABS module and attaching bracket from the left inner fender.
Then disco the 2 flexible lines from the master cylinder, then unplug the electrical connections from the stock master cylinder, then remove the 2 bolts holding the master on the brake booster. Now the master can come out. try not to spill too much fluid as itll leak from the master. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp15 ... /004-1.jpg
Now with the master, ABS module, intake, and air box out of the way you can see the line clamp on top of the left shock tower, the L/R line connections at the frame rail, and the rear connection at the frame rail. I disco'd all 3 brake lines at the frame rail, pulled them out of the truck and cut.flared/bent as need to put on the 7/16th tube nuts. After that i loosely installed them back in the truck, that way i can move them as need. just remember to tighten them up before you bleed it at the end.
Now you can bench bleed the new master if you are swapping them, or reinstall the stock master. I choose to swap themhttp://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp15 ... /005-1.jpg
Now with the brake lines in the truck use the brake Tee fitting to tie the two front brake lines into one connection. Now youll have the rear line, and the two front lines tied to one line.connection.
Now your ready to figure out how your going to route the lines from the master to the proportiong valve, and the brake tee fitting.
NOTE: The adapters Napa #641-3309 & Napa #641-3304 go on the master, the brake tee fitting is 7/16", and the proportioning valve comes with the needed adapters for 7/16".
This is how i ended up doing it; http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp15 ... /006-1.jpghttp://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp15 ... /008-2.jpg
So once you run the connecting lines from the master to the proportioning valve/tee fitting your ready to bleed and check for leaks. Then finally after its bled and you have good pedal, you have to go to a open parking lot and brake hard to see how your brakes react, adjust the proportioning valve accordingly to were the rear locks up at the same time or slightly after the front brakes do.
After that my pedal is much firmer but it isnt excessively hard, and my truck stops really good! Hope this write up helps answer some questions! Feel free to ask me questions.