Home wiring question? SOLVED!!

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Home wiring question? SOLVED!!

Post by F9K9 »

Need a little help if, anyone has the knowledge to comment. During my e-fan install I did something to to an exterior GDCI receptacle that created a light show and smoke. I figured I fried it because the spring loaded "weather door" was screwed up and came in contact with an exposed part of my angle grinder's plug as I was unplugging it.

My electric wires are underground leading to the box that is in the photo. Item #2 is a breaker to the outlet (I smoked) that is below the main cutoff switch. My main breaker box to the house is after this box.

#1 is the MAIN cut off switch.

I cannot detect any voltage coming from the 20 amp breaker (#2). Are these things universal are what do I need to do to pick up another one and replace it?

I have already replaced the GFCI receptacle and the weather cover but, am at a standstill now.

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Last edited by F9K9 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by HenryJ »

Unscrew the wire and pull the breaker out. It will rock to the outside from the switch side and unhook.
They are fairly common. any hardware, farm store, or building center should have them. There are a few different kinds, that is why you need to bring yours along to compare.
Don't throw the breaker away until you try a new one an confirm that it is indeed faulty.

I assume that you have tried resetting it? Push it all the way to the off position and then back all the way to the on position. You should feel it reset if it had blown.
Also make sure that the GFI outlets switch is reset as well. It should pop out when you press the black test button, then press the red button back in and it should latch.

FYI- Wiring inside the box needs to have the outer sleeve of insulation removed You should have only the white , black and bare ground wires inside the box. All bends should be a 6" radius for Oregon code.
Last edited by HenryJ on Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Unscrew the wire and pull the breaker out. It will rock to the outside from the switch side and unhook.
They are fairly common. any hardware, farm store, or building center should have them. There are a few different kinds, that is why you need to bring yours along to compare.
Don't throw the breaker away until you try a new one an confirm that it is indeed faulty.
Thanks, Brule. I suppose it is wise to throw the main switch to off prior to pulling the wire ( I know that is wise to throw the switch but, if I am carefull is it needed).? I know Mrs Hoff is gonna raise holy h*ll resetting everthing.
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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:I assume that you have tried resetting it? Push it all the way to the off position and then back all the way to the on position. You should feel it reset if it had blown.
Also make sure that the GFI outlets switch is reset as well. It should pop out when you press the black test button, then press the red button back in and it should latch.

FYI- Wiring inside the box needs to have the outer sleeve of insulation removed You should have only the white , black and bare ground wires inside the box. All bends should be a 6" radius for Oregon code.
No black and red buttons here. Just test and reset in same color. Neither really popped out from old or new units. I assumed that they needed to be hot to do that.
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Post by HenryJ »

Personally , I feel comfortable leaving the main hot. It will not kill the power to the buss anyway. Those two cables at the bottom will still be hot.

Remember, work with one hand in your pocket.
You do not want the path the electricity takes to go through your heart.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:.........................I assume that you have tried resetting it? Push it all the way to the off position and then back all the way to the on position.
The 20 amp breaker only returned to the "breaker thrown position (straight up)" and would not go all the way to what I thought was OFF. It would start to rock upwards out of it's position with pressure applied.
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:No black and red buttons here. Just test and reset in same color. Neither really popped out from old or new units. I assumed that they needed to be hot to do that.
Mine will pop, but it sounds like they are a little different.

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Post by F9K9 »

HenryJ wrote:Personally , I feel comfortable leaving the main hot. It will not kill the power to the buss anyway. Those two cables at the bottom will still be hot.

Remember, work with one hand in your pocket.
You do not want the path the electricity takes to go through your heart.
I was hoping you'd say that and I agree. I am terrified of electricity and use every precaution. :!:
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Post by HenryJ »

f9k9 wrote:The 20 amp breaker only returned to the "breaker thrown position (straight up)" and would not go all the way to what I thought was OFF. It would start to rock upwards out of it's position with pressure applied.
Yep, sounds fried. Time for a trip to Wallyworld :mg:
f9k9 wrote:... I am terrified of electricity and use every precaution. :!:
A good way to be :thumb: It can really rattle your teeth when applied improperly :lol:
Last edited by HenryJ on Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by top_sgt »

boy.... i hate it when the sparks and smoke comes out of electrical stuff.....you can never get it all back in just right!!!!! :lol:


anyway......how is it going reed.....?? any luck yet??!!??
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Post by F9K9 »

top_sgt wrote:
anyway......how is it going reed.....?? any luck yet??!!??
Yeah, I went out this AM and bought a breaker and replaced it and not a single duck required CPR.

Thanks, BruleImage
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Post by HenryJ »

8)

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Post by top_sgt »

well now!!!! we've been working on you becoming a mechanic!!! now you are learning to be an electrician!!!! glad it worked out!!!
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Post by F9K9 »

Okay! I have left this dormant 3 years and it appears that it might be time to be revived. This is the exact situation as before. Main breaker outside the house with an outside receptacle provided for 110.


No voltage showing after the box on the aux outlets. Thoughts. Brule?
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Post by HenryJ »

Probably follow it back to the source. Use your multimeter set for AC and at least 120 volts. Test it at the breaker. If there is not power and it has been reset, then you are in the market for a new breaker again.

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Post by F9K9 »

Yep, bad breaker again! This time it would not show blown but remained in the "on" position. :?: Thanks, Brule!
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Post by DLP »

If you have went through 2 breakers now, you might want to see what gauge wiring you have to the outlets. Also check what all is on that same circut at once. Too small of wiring and too many loads on that circut will make the breaker run warm. That is probaly what is killing the breaker.
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Post by F9K9 »

DLP wrote:If you have went through 2 breakers now, you might want to see what gauge wiring you have to the outlets. Also check what all is on that same circut at once. Too small of wiring and too many loads on that circut will make the breaker run warm. That is probaly what is killing the breaker.
The most that has been on that breaker is a small aerator pond pump, a vacuum or battery charger. It is just one outlet located immediately below the box in the photo.
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Post by 04crewvt »

I would open the panel and look to see if the breaker is double tapped on the ground bus or neutral line bus, if they are see if you can put them in on separate lugs. While there check to see if the lugs are secure, if they are loose it can cause heating problems within the breaker leading to failure (that's why double taps are frowned on as well).
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Post by F9K9 »

04crewvt wrote:I would open the panel.............
Next time you're in the neighborhood feel free to check it out. I am not going in their again until something is broke. I have worn out 2 prs of levis keeping a hand in them. I am terrified of that stuff. :wink:
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Post by 04crewvt »

Meh, It's only a doorImage doors don't kill people, electri oh wait, never mind.
If you go in to check that out if you turn off the main breaker you can work relatively safely as long as you stay away from the mains coming into the box. It's just something to remember for the next one that fails 3 years from now if schedule holds or for the next time you need to go in there.
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