Just a basic isolator. A series of diodes up to a given amp rating. I believe this one has three 50 amp diodes? (might have been four?)green02crew wrote:What is the isolator you wired it to charge from?
They will die together. Connected in parallel both act as one large battery. They need to be the same size, design and age to work well.green02crew wrote:Without the shut off switch will the main battery die then go on to kill the reserve?
No. I manually turn the switch , combining the two batteries in parallel to "jump start" myself.... if the main battery were to die, will it auto switch to the strong backup battery and get you started?
There may be a fusible link in the wire from the alternator. Mine has one. I did not add one to or from the isolator. The diodes will fail and act as fuses in the event of a short.green02crew wrote:Is an in line fuse needed with this setup whether in the supply or output from the aux battery?
Correct. One 8ga wire from the isolator and a 4ga cable to the switch.You're running two positives to the backup battery, correct? One to charge and one to jump start?
Using this table you can see that 5' of 8 ga. is sufficient to deliver 140 amps from the alternator and that 7' of 4ga. cable to the main battery can deliver over 200 amps.What gauge wire are you running for charging purposes?
Over kill is never a bad thing, however in this case that may be way beyond what is needed. Do you ever see a need to draw more than 140 amperes from the auxiliary battery without it being combined? My highest draw accessory is connected to the main battery. The winch is capable of drawing beyond the output of my alternator. With both batteries combined the full output of the alternator has two paths for amperage to flow. If it takes the path of least resistance I hardly think it would overload the isolator. IMO, the 140 amp isolator is plenty for the auxiliary battery.My alt output is 145amp, so would you recommend going up to the 200amp version or is the 140amp sufficient?
I did not. The one that you are describing must be different and use something other than simple diodes? Perhaps just an ignition activated safety? I would follow the directions included for installation. You can pick up an ignition wire in the electrical center I suspect. Wipers, maybe?Where did you tap in for the isolator activator?
Yes. The line loss would be a killer. It is best to have the pipes as short as possible to move the water. A pipe that long needs time to fill the lake. That is why the wire from the trailer connector is a charging wire instead of source.green02crew wrote:...would it be any different hooking an under hood battery directly up to the trailer power lug as apposed to leaving a trailer with built in battery plugged in all the time?
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest