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Post by YellowCrewCabber »

Hey Brule got a friend who says his front diff is seeping where both front shafts connect. He's wanting to know if this is a job he can do or are special tools needed and should he take it to a dealer?
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Post by 04crewvt »

Pretty typical on Chevy trucks, I was quoted over $1000 from the dealer to rebuild mine on my 89 Silverado. I just kept a bottle of fluid around and topped it up till the truck died of old age, I figure I spent only $15 for 8 years so unless it's leaking a lot you could always go that route.
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Post by HenryJ »

Sounds like inner axle seals? Not a terrible job, but time consuming. Is he capable of pulling the halfshafts and possibly dropping the front differential if that is what is needed?

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Post by YellowCrewCabber »

HenryJ wrote:Sounds like inner axle seals? Not a terrible job, but time consuming. Is he capable of pulling the halfshafts and possibly dropping the front differential if that is what is needed?
Yes, I believe he is capable Brule. Special tools would be neede?? Is that what has to happen?? (dropping the differential)
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Post by HenryJ »

I lose track of where the differences in the half shafts lie. If it has the bolt flanges at the differential and axle tube you may find it easier to drop the differential and install the seals.
The half shafts can be removed to pull the axles and install the seals too.
It sure seems like there is not room enough to unbolt the half shafts and move them far enough out of the way to pull the axles and replace the seals.
It has been quite a while since I have done it on one from that era. I don't think they changed much in five years but I can't be positive. I would unbolt the half shaft from the axle and see if there is room to pull both axles with the differential in place. If not, no biggie as it is pretty easy to take loose the mounts, wires , d-shaft and cable to drop the diff out , to do the replacement all on the bench.

Lots of labor and a few dollars for parts.

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Post by YellowCrewCabber »

Thanks Brule. I'm pretty sure he'll like this news. Thanks for your help.
Jeff
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Post by YellowCrewCabber »

Hello again,
He wants to know why his Hayne's manual says to replace the beaings while he's in there. I told him that was a darn good question.
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Post by 04crewvt »

I would guess because since the labor is the biggest part of the job they want to save people the hassle of tearing down again just to do the bearings. It should add only slightly to the total cost and time involved since it's being torn down already.
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Post by HenryJ »

YellowCrewCabber wrote:Hello again,
He wants to know why his Hayne's manual says to replace the beaings while he's in there. I told him that was a darn good question.
I would not tear down the differential unless you are having problems or the oil was really contaminated. The axle seals can be replaced without separating the differential case, IIRC.
Worst case you will have to pull the right axle tube to get the shift collar aligned properly. That can be resealed with RTV if you don't have a gasket handy.

I guess that is all kind of depending upon the condition too. If it is really high miles, I might consider replacing bearings. That is going to require checking the pattern after assembly and confirming correct lash. That takes a little more expertise.

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Post by 04crewvt »

I was thinking the manual meant the wheel bearings not the diff itself. My Chiltons manual for that year does not show the bearings needing replacement when doing the seals.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]