CC Demons

Anything related to the factory RPO Crew Cab.

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Cajun
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CC Demons

Post by Cajun »

Well the CC demons are on me in force. Took my truck to the dealer to check an SES code, oil leak between the engine and transmission and a clunk from the drivers side front wheel.

With the odometer at 62k I bet most of you know exactly what each problem is...

SES = O2 sensor failure
Oil leak = Rear main seal, oil pan gasket and power steering
Clunk = all four ball joints shot in spite of my religious grease jobs

The dealer seems to think that my rear brake pads need changing and all four roters turned and they didn't like the hose clamp holding on the CV boot.

The good news is that my $1500 extended warranty will pay for all but the brake job which I'll do myself. About $3,500 worth of work to fix the SES, oil leaks and clunk. This is the first extended warranty for anything that I have ever bought into.

The hose clamp is staying since it holds better than the $50 GM CV clamp.
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Post by HenryJ »

What year is you truck? Do you know which O2 sensor they are replacing?

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Post by Cajun »

03 CC

The code was P0155 "Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 2".
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Post by HenryJ »

Sensor 1 bank 2? Did you clear the code and see it return?

They tend to go in a cascade. You might watch for the others soon , if they are failing. If you get a chance look at the removed sensor and see if contaminants are the reason for the failure. Some bad fuel, or perhaps something worse like oil deposits might be indicated.

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Post by Cajun »

The SES started coding about 4 fillups ago. It would code soon after the fillup then go away at about 1/3 to 1/4 fuel level and return after the next fillup. I replaced the gas cap and cleared the code, but it returned soon after. Cleared it again and back it came.

Thanks HenryJ for the heads-up on checking the O2 sensor. I'll definately ask to see the old one and expect the others to code soon.
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Post by roadrunner »

Have you checked your evap vent filter under the truck above tha driveshaft? This will set a code same as gas cap failure. If you're unsure what it is or looks like do a search for it on the forum. There's a good pic and instructions on this subject. Perhaps Brule will be kind and lend you a link? :wink:
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Re: CC Demons

Post by Rockrz »

Cajun wrote:ball joints shot in spite of my religious grease jobs
religious grease jobs??? Image

Sorry...I couldn't resist thinking that there were religious services
being held as the holy grease is being applied to your front end...
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Re: CC Demons

Post by Cajun »

Rockrz wrote:[religious grease jobs??? Image
...complete with burning incense and sprinkling of holy water...
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Post by HenryJ »

Holy water should be purged from the balljoints as it would act as a contaminant. Greasing after the baptismal dunking should be done to purge the water from the joint. ;)

"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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Post by Rockrz »

HenryJ wrote:Holy water should be purged from the balljoints as it would act as a contaminant. Greasing after the baptismal dunking should be done to purge the water from the joint. ;)
I assume this is all done by the Holy 4-Wheelin Father, right? :lol:
Last edited by Rockrz on Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Torskdoc »

Standing next to a Rajun Cajun throwing Chicken Bones in the air and chanting nonsensical mumblings to the goddess of bent connecting rods. :P :P
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Post by Cajun »

All VERY cute...but it didn't help me are the balls.
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Post by Mike Mercury »

My rear O2 sensor's heater opened up at around 68k Miles... was a inexpensive DIY repair.

But ball joints ??? What's the deal with them? At about 45k miles I had a tire store tell me about the ball joints having wear/play... I thought he was BS'ing me.

How hard are they to replace DIY style ?
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Post by Cajun »

Update...I Finally got my truck back yesterday after nine days and I had to bring it back today to fix the disc brake dust shield that was bent during ball joint replacement. Total bill was over $3,000 and was covered by my extended warranty less my deductable.

A quick look under my truck and I immediately noticed that the new lower ball joint has no zerk and the upper one does. This made me look at my dealership repair invoice to cross check the part numbers with GM
Parts.com. The oxygen sensor, rear main seal and oil pan gasket checked out with the GM part numbers. The upper and lower ball joints and power steering pump did not.

A quick search of Advanced Auto Parts website revealed that the part number for the upper ball joints matches the TRW UBJ for our trucks and the part number for the power steering pump matched their website for a Cardone remanufactured pump. The lower ball joints (W/O the zerk) part number is still a mystery. The lower ball is listed on the invoice as "88967425 Stud Kit".

Even though I only paid the deductable, it really chaps my hide that the parts cost on the invoice is twice MSRP of the GM part and 5 times that of the part that I actually received.

Very disheartened...I'm going to go reread my extended warranty again.

Any thoughts?
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Post by HenryJ »

You will need zerks in those lower ball joints. I do not think they will live long without additional lubrication.

Is there a chance that the zerks were forgotten, or the ball joints installed improperly. Perhaps the wrong side or orientation?

I would be a little worried about those lower ball joints. The "lifetime lubricated" balljoints on the Fords did not work out well at all and many have been subject to a "special safety inspection policy".

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Post by killian96ss »

The zerk fittings on the lower ball joint are hard to see with the wheels on.

They are either sealed ball joints or the shop forgot to install the zerks. :?:

My 05 ZR2 has sealed ball joints on top and greasable ball joints on the bottom.

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Post by Cajun »

The orientation is something to check into with the wheels off and better light. I know where they are and your right they are hard to find. The driver's side faces forward with a 45 degree zerk and the passanger side faces back with the same zerk peeking through a hole in the mount. I do find it hard to believe that it would be sealed. In searching the usual auto parts websites I could not find one w/o a zerk, in fact some even clearly show the zerk as a separate part. There is clearly a dust boot but not a seal. The boot is loosely fit around the shaft so that the ball is partially visible.
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Post by Cajun »

This is the TRW upper ball joint that was installed on my truck clearly shows the zerk in the far bottom right corner.

Image
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Post by HenryJ »

That rubber dust boot goes under the shiny steel sleeve to seal the boot to the ball joint.
You mentioned you can see the ball. That should not be possible unless the rubber boot was not installed correctly.
Any chance of showing us some pictures?
The picture you posted above may be the upper. I don't recall the lower ball joints using a 90 degree zerk. I thought they were straight.
The upper ball joints use the 90 degree zerk. The more I look at it the more I think that is an upper.
It has been quite a while since I have looked at them, I could be wrong.

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Post by Cajun »

This is the upper, I can not ID the lower by the invoice part number. I will make some photos today and post ASAP.

This forum and you regulars and moderators are a valuable resource.

Thanks for your help.
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Post by Cajun »

Upper Ball Joints

...well I took a look again and I may have more trouble than I originally thought. The exposed shaft and ball is actually on the upper driver's side. The photos below show both uppers,

Image

Image

Is the damn thing just not seated properly?

More on the lower ball joints a little later...
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Post by killian96ss »

Cajun, the first thing I would recommend is a different shop. :!:

That upper BJ stud doesn't appear to have been tightened at all. :shock:

I don't see how any mechanic could miss that. :roll:

How in the world could they put the nut and cotter pin on and not notice that it has not been tightened? :?

Can't wait to see what they did with the lower BJ's. :?:

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Post by HenryJ »

:lol: It use looks like they put the dust boot in upside down on the driver side.
Must have been close to 5:00 on a friday :lol:
Take it back , that is just wrong.

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Post by Cajun »

LOWER BALL JOINT

...Where's my ZERK!

Image

Image

Does this seem like a sealed unit or could it be installed backward so that the zerk inlet faces the back of the truck?
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Post by Cajun »

killian96ss wrote:Cajun, the first thing I would recommend is a different shop. :!:
I really wish that that was an option. unfortunately the extended warranty is an agreement with the selling dealer. After a bad experience with this service department regarding the infamous AC vac. switch the rest of my GM warranty work was done by another dealer.
It use looks like they put the dust boot in upside down on the driver side.
That upper BJ stud doesn't appear to have been tightened at all.
So which is it...could be both...
Must have been close to 5:00 on a friday
Actually I think it was 8:00 pm Thursday night. They worked late after promising me my truck Monday and not delivering it then or Wednesday, wasn't going to happen Thursday or Friday until I called the dealership owner to inquire about a loaner.

I guess i'm back at the dealer tomorrow morning.
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Post by mudtaxi »

i got that same code so what do i need to replace
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Re: CC Demons

Post by Cajun »

Cajun wrote: SES = O2 sensor failure
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Post by GeorgesBlazah »

Wow thats a heck of a crappy job done by the dealer. Have you taekn it back yet?
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Post by Cajun »

I took the truck back Monday. The tech removed the ball joint and reinstalled it properly. I asked if a wheel alignment was required after removing and replacing the upper ball joint and the tech said "no" and so I did not receive a wheel alignment. I was also due a tire rotation so the next day I brought my truck over to the tire store where I purchased the tires for a rotation and explained to their tech my recent experience we the dealership. The tire store tech offered to check the alignment using his instruments. Long story short the alignment was way off, so I paid the tire store tech, whom I have great confidence in, to re align my truck.

I am in the process of writing a letter to the dealer's service manager including photos of their work and will copy the extended warranty company. My issues with the dealership's work on this service visit alone go beyond the one ball joint. I am curious how each will react.
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Post by killian96ss »

Anytime the ball joints are replaced an alignment is required. :wink:

When my local GM dealership replaced my upper ball joints they also did the alignment for free like they are supposed to.

Did you pay extra for this extended warranty? :?:

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Post by Cajun »

killian96ss wrote:Did you pay extra for this extended warranty? :?:

Steve
Of course, $1,488.00. I have contacted the extended warranty company and got no where with the kid on the phone. The best I could do was to leave a message with his manager.

More poking around last night and I discovered that the new re-built power steering pump that is listed on my invoice was not changed. The same old grungy unit is in place.
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Post by killian96ss »

Can you use this warranty at any repair facility? :?:

I paid about $1600 for my latest extended warranty with a $50 deductable through Zurich and I know for sure I can use it anywhere I want.

You should be able to do the same. :?

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Post by Cajun »

Unfortunately that's not the case with mine. Mine was sold to me by the dealership through First extended Service Corporation and states, in very fine print, "This is an extended service agreement between you and the selling dealer". In talking to the warranty company I discovered that if I lived more than 40 miles from the selling dealer that I could have it serviced anywhere, that's crazy. Maybe I should move.
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