Engine Oil Recommendation

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Engine Oil Recommendation

Post by bradjh »

Ok i am just wondering what everyone feels is the best engine oil to run in my cc. it is a 2002 with 75,000 lately i have been using vavoline 5w30 and a cheap fram filter. but after i got flamed last time i am considering going with k&N this oil change. which oil is the best to use i live in cincinnati ohio and just use the truck as a daily driver nothing extreme. Brad
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Post by 04crewvt »

I run Amsoil 0w-30 in mine. I think any good full synthetic oil would be the best overall choice regardless of brand. Longer change intervals better lubrication less prone to breakdown and for many it does improve performance slightly.
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Post by killian96ss »

I like Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic SUV oil or Royal Purple 5W-30 synthetic oil and K&N filter part # HP2001.

Royal Purple motor oil is good for 12k before it needs to be changed, and the filter should be changed @ 6k. :D

Synthetics are well worth the extra $ since you can run them 3x longer and get far superior protection. :wink:

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Post by HenryJ »

If it is the weight of oil you question, consult your owners manual for a chart.
engine oil

Your conditions and driving habits will play a large part in what works best for you. If you drive long periods giving the engine time to warm and burn off moisture and this is done at regular speeds with little loading on a nice clean highway, longer change intervals may work for you and synthetic would probably be the best idea. A very good filter to extend that change interval may be a good idea as well. Even with the huge price difference synthetic may be cheaper when used for extended change intervals.

Synthetic may not be the most cost effective if you are subject to harsh conditions and need to maintain shorter change intervals. That statement will likely bring out the argument that synthetic holds up better under severe conditions. I am referring to contamination as the biggest part of the harsh conditions.

If you run short trips, stop and go, dirty conditions your change intervals need to be shorter. How short will again depend upon your driving habits and conditions. There are many natural base oils that are quality products and less expensive. A quality filter should still be used, but the highest priced filter may not have advantages needed for shorter intervals.

I know you are going to get differing opinions here. We have members that will run nothing but synthetics no matter what the change interval. That may work just fine for them. It can be expensive, but they accept that expense.
We have others that use the cheapest oil they can find and change it frequently. That works just fine too.

Who will last longer? No way to tell. I think they will last equally as long.
If you can go 300k miles on cheap oil and 320k on synthetic oil, who really cares at that point.

Here is the Oil Filter thread The highest priced filter may not be the most cost effective. A quality filter should be used and there are several that are more than adequate.

What do I use? That too depends upon the application. I have been a diehard Castrol user. I avoid Valvoline ever since I had to rebuild an engine that used that oil exclusively. Stinky and sludged would be my best description. I could smell one clear across the shop. I do run Castrol Syntec in the wifes car and have been trying it in my truck for the last three changes. Winters around here are pretty clean. I drive far enough to warm the engine and I keep it warm by being plugged in all winter. For those reasons I have extended my change interval and it may be cost effective. I run Castrol 20/50W in the HenryJ. It runs under the most severe conditions in that it builds lots of horsepower and heat. It has gone seventeen years and been torn down more times than I can remember. I am always happy with the condition of the internals. That made me a believer. My bike is a similar case. The warranty required use of a natural base oil. Hondaline and Castrol were the two I found at that time. that is when I started using Castrol. The cams in that engine are renowned for their poor longevity. Oil is critical. I ran Castrol 10/40w for most of its life. The last two years I made the switch to Syntec under recommendation of some other owners. I now drive it in a manner consistent with longer change intervals. That was part of the consideration for this change.
For filters, I use Wix (NAPA). A good quality filter. I can buy them at a price comparable to Fram at Wallyworld due to the volume I use and prices I have negotiated.

Oil brands are like vehicle brands. You have those die-hard Ford guys and Chevy owners that bash them. The whole synth vs dino thing is similar. Each will have to make up their mind.

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Post by HenryJ »

killian96ss wrote:...synthetic oil protects far better than regular oil regardless of oil change intervals.
Even if you change you oil frequently because of hard use, synthetics will definitely protect better.
Does synthetic offer more than 100% better protection? It costs at least twice that of non-synth. I am not really asking for an answer, for me that is where the question lies.
Each will offer all the protection needed when used properly. Each can provide adequate protection. Which will be cost effective for the chosen interval? That is the one thing that has given me heart burn over the synth vs dino "argument". Sure it may offer longer service interval since it will not break down as readily, but twice as long to offset the cost? Not usually. It will be a personal choice. Maybe you are lazy and don't mind paying more for a slightly longer service interval. That is a valid point. If it works for you, that is what counts.
Budget is one thing I should have added to the above post. That can be a valid part of the choice too.
You might be able to say, "why not have the better protection?" Does a mall cruiser really need steel undercarriage shields? The stock aluminum shields will work just fine should there be a need. That is probably an extreme attempt at an example :oops: Twice the cost and is it really shielding that you need? It may be?
Another thing would be to consider how long you plan to keep the vehicle. If yours is a lease and you don't do your own work, perhaps the quickie lube should be your friend. Unless you are rolling in cash, I doubt you will use synthetics. Actually if you are rolling in cash, I bet you are frugal enough to use the cheap stuff too :lol: Is one or the other going to make a difference in how long the engine lasts. That will depend more on your maintenance and operating conditions than on the type of oil you select. I would say that since you are asking the questions, there is no doubt you are trying to do the best you can to maintain it properly. I have no doubt it will last a very long time.

Take all the information, your budget, your conditions and your gut feeling put it all together and use what you think is the best choice. You are driving a Chevy, so that is one step you have taken right! Now choose the RIGHT oil :lol:

Sorry it is not black and white :mg:

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Post by green02crew »

I do agree with HJ on this and just to sum it up with a story: Personally I run dino oil. I change every 3k on the dot or earlier. I'll usually add a small amount of marvel mystery to the mix to thin it out depending on the time of year. I used this combination in my old car every change and that engine was still going at 250k miles and lets just say I didn't baby it. So why go synthetic with the extra cost if dino kept it going to 1/4 million. How long are you keeping the vehicle for and what can you dish out for costs should be the answer to the question of which oil. Is it worth the higher price if you're only keeping it for a couple years? The extra protection that may be offered by synthetics could be good for the long run however.
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Post by HenryJ »

I can not say I am strictly on one side of this or the other. I run synth in a couple of my vehicles and dino in others.
All I want you to do is think about it and what makes the most sense for you.
If money was no issue, I would be trying all different kinds and have my personal assistant change them all regularly.
I can neither afford to spend money on luxuries, nor do I cut corners to the point of jeopardizing my assets.

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Post by killian96ss »

The average price for a quart of standard oil where I live is $2.80 versus $6.00 for the Royal Purple I'm using right now.

Standard oil is good for 3,000 to 4,000 miles while RP oil is good for 12,000 miles with a filter change @ 6,000.

5 quarts @ $2.80 = $14
5 quarts @ $6.00 = $30

Synthetic oil is about 2x the cost of standard oil.

For $14 you get 3,000 to 4,000 miles of protection.

For $30 + the cost of 1 more filter ($5-$10) you get 12k miles of protection.

Which one is more cost efficient? :?:

If standard oil was good for 6,000 miles then maybe that would be the "cost effective" way to go for me, but I have yet to see a standard oil that is good for 6k and offers better protection. :?

Synthetic oil protects far better because of it's tight and uniform molecular structure.

Standard oil molecules are uneven in size and loosely packed.

Synthetic oil also offers better gas mileage which saves lots of money over time. :D

Just something else to consider. :wink:

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engine oil and filter

Post by bradjh »

thank you all very much for your help. Once you switch to synthetic you cant go back is that true? Do i need to do anything special to switch to synthetic? Some one (not on here) told me to leave the drain plug off the pan and dump a quart through. then replace the plug and fill it? is that necessary or just a waste of a quart. second my truck already has 75000 is it to late to make the switch? I am probably go with mobil 1 5w30 and a k&n filter. how does that sound brad?
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Post by HenryJ »

You do not need to do anything special to switch to synthetic and you can switch back or even mix them if you need to. You will dilute the benefits by mixing, but there is no harm. I would not flush. I would just make the change. The next time will be better than the first. That will be the best flush you can do.

Particulate matter is one form of contamination. Filters may be able to handle most of that. Filters do not remove all the contaminants and do not restore the additives needed to maintain adequate protection. If that were the case we would have a lifetime oil. Maybe someday we will have a restoration and recycling oil system.
I would not be comfortable running 12k miles on any oil under even the best conditions. 7k miles is pushing it in my book. That is twice the interval I would tolerate for dino or more. You do have a fresh clean change in between using dino, removing any contaminants and showing any problems that might crop up through the inspection while draining.

I did witness and was a part of testing a new oil. They ran the fleet truck a 600 series KW diesel engine 500k miles on the same oil, only changing filters and adding that amount. I never did see the final report. The truck did just fine though. It was taken back to their facility where the engine was disassembled after that. That oil was the new Delo 400 15/40W. I run that in our fleet today and have since.

The gas mileage improvements are minimal if any. Easy to boast, but very hard to prove. There really is not enough difference to make any financial gain. I have yet to see any real differences personally. The gains that are advertised are well within the limits of error and small enough to be normal changes in operating conditions. I do not see a mileage increase as being a valid reason to go synth. That is just me. I have never been able to get those gains from a switch to synth.

It would be hard to prove a cost savings for synth with it at twice the cost. It is not impossible. I do think the choice will become clearer as our options become limited.

One thing to point out is that some of the claims are misleading. If you pay the big dollars for synthetic, make sure that is what you are getting. there are many blends out there selling for big prices to those who are unaware of the differences. Do some research and make sure you are getting what you pay for.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sun Jan 06, 2008 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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engine oil and filter

Post by bradjh »

ok thanks for the help. is mobil 1 full synthetic or is it just a blend. the only autoparts stores near me are auto zone, advance autoparts and o reily's brad
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Post by F9K9 »

Best deal for Mobil one is wallyworld. 5 qts for $22.00 here
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Post by roadrunner »

Run what you like but change change change change. Most people fail to realize the main benefit of more frequent oil changes is removal of contamination and wear particles from your crankcase as well as the fact that "oil" never wears out. It gets dirty and the additive packages shear/burn/contaminate away. The best oil and filter in the world is still no substitute for regular short drain intervals. I will waste oil and filters cause I have learned in my lifetime they are much cheaper and easier to replace than iron. Kinda like the old commercial on tv used to say "you can pay me now or pay me later". Later is always more expensive. The proof: 1992 Caravan 3.3 eng 335k and still going strong, 1998 Park Ave 3.8 eng 152k still strong, 1990 Park Ave 3.8 eng 292k still strong,2001 S10 4.3 eng 86k still strong and I intend to keep them that way. I NEVER repeat NEVER :alert: run past 3k per change with filter and oil and will reduce that by 50% if a lot of short driving. FYI I have used the 90, 92, and 01 all extensively on mail delivery and I don't baby any of them. Laugh if you like I use Wally World Tech 2000 5w30 in all but the S10. It says use 10w30 so I use the same brand in that weight. This is the only oil I use in all of them ever since I bought them. So, if you laugh just remember I'm laughing all the way to the bank!!! :thumb: The only other thing I add to the crankcase is Prolong. Tried it. Like it. Will continue to use it. (4oz per change) All 4 plus 3 prior vehicles on this same regimen.
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Post by 04crewvt »

I am going the exact opposite method. I am running the Amsoil synthetic and have changed the oil exactly 3 times since I got the truck at 6700K. I now have 48K on it. I changed the first filter at their 6month interval and have since gone to there 1yr filter. I put a cheap oil filter on and run a flush kit before each change with the good filter and oil. I plan on doing this till the engine gives up or until the truck rusts out under me. We shall see in time if this is penny wise pound foolish or not.
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Post by killian96ss »

Synthetic engine oil can easily go for 12k miles with 1 filter change and still protect better than regular oil which is only good for 3k miles.

Todays high quality oil filters like Mobil 1 and K&N Gold filter down to 10 microns or less so contamination is not a problem like it used to be in the past.

Mobil 1 has an oil good for 15k mile intervals, and I believe Redline has an oil good for over 20k.

I have personally run synthetic oil up to 12k and when I changed it it looked just like regular oil would look by 3k miles.

Synthetic oil does not break down nearly as fast as regular oil due to it's altered molecular structure and synthetic base stocks which means even in a vehicle that is driven hard synthetic oil will offer better protection while taking advantage of longer drain intervals.

To be honest there really is no reason to change your oil every 3k miles using inferior dino oil when you can run synthetics for 12k miles, save money, get better gas mileage, and offer way better protection. :wink:

To this day I have never heard a valid argument that favors dino oil over synthetics. :roll:

Every vehicle that I have switched from standard oil to synthetic has gained 1-2 mpg. :D

This may not seem like much, but when you do the math you are getting an extra 17 to 35 miles per tank. which really adds up over time. :wink:

Now I'm just rambling on repeating myself so "that is all I got to say about that". :lol:

Technologies have changed for the better so why not take advantage of them? :idea:

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Post by Torskdoc »

For all the GM vehicles I've ever had (starting with my 8 year old 63 Impala back in '71, I've used nothing but Castrol or Havoline Whatever was cheapest)10-w30 or 5w-30 and an AC-DELCO Filter. For the few f#$'s I've had used a MOTORCRAFT FL1A. Changed @ 3000. or 3 months which ever comes 1st. NEVER had a problem with the oil or filters. Engines have lasted 150K+ on quite a few and a couple are running past 250K right now (brother has my 92 EXT. Cab 2.8 and it's got 280K on it. No lower end work.). It all adds up to just changing it regular and using an oil that meets/Exceeds specs. As a couple of the guys have said CHANGE, CHANGE, CHANGE. BUT STAY AWAY FROM FRAM FILTERS. AN AC-DELCO PF-47 or 52 (47 is short and 52 is long) is usually 1-2 dollars cheaper than a FRAM and in my opinion a while lot better.

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Post by roadrunner »

04crewvt wrote:I am going the exact opposite method. I am running the Amsoil synthetic and have changed the oil exactly 3 times since I got the truck at 6700K.
I wish you all the best with that. One of my former bosses when I worked in a dealership went ga ga over Amsoil and took on a dealership. My observations of the results were not pretty to say the least. One vehicle I remember in particular was purchased by one of the other guys working there at the time brand new. After a "break in" period of 6k miles according to Amsoil's reccommendations at the time the vehicle was put on synthetic and filter change and drain intervals were followed per their specs. The results were: by the time this car had 40k on it it was in serious trouble. On engine teardown it was discovered every and I mean EVERY moving part in it was worn out. I have seen engines at that time with over 150k on them torn down with far less wear. Crank, shot. Cam, shot. All valves and guides, shot. Lifters, shot. Rocker arms and pushrods, shot. Timing chain and gears, shot. Rings and even wrist pins, shot. All bearings, shot. Even cylinder walls showed in excess of .040 taper. Only solution was replacement with complete engine. Same guy retained ownership and switched back to non-synthetic oil and at 90k later after new engine was still going strong.
So, as I said laugh if you like. Call me not up on "technology" if you like. It doesn't bother me at all cause what I'm doing is working just fine.
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Post by 04crewvt »

This is the first vehicle I have owned with less than 60k on it and the first trying synthetic. I will just have to see how this stacks up to my other vehicles that I did the 3k dino changes regularly. It may be a costly lesson or a good decision I won't know for a few years unless something catastrophic happens.
I don't fault anyone for sticking with what works for them but I would like to see proof of any statement such as such and such totally destroyed an engine. Since Amsiol guarantees their products when used as recommended I would have to see a statement from them confirming this motor failure and their subsequent repair or replacement of the motor under that warrranty. Just the way I am I guess.
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Post by roadrunner »

04crewvt wrote: I don't fault anyone for sticking with what works for them but I would like to see proof of any statement such as such and such totally destroyed an engine. Since Amsiol guarantees their products when used as recommended I would have to see a statement from them confirming this motor failure and their subsequent repair or replacement of the motor under that warrranty. Just the way I am I guess.
I totally understand your skepticism and given what I've related I hope you can also understand mine. You weren't there and didn't witness the event. Amsoil was never notified of the failure. The repairs were handled under the vehicle's extended warranty. Since all the primaries in this incident were directly related they simply agreed to keep their mouths shut :roll: or the manufacturer might have balked at repairs due to not using "reccommended" :wink: lubricants at the time.
Perhaps they have changed/improved this brand since that time. :?: I don't know. As I said I wish you luck with it and will be interested in hearing any updates you care to post in the future. :) I'm not averse to technology. Just cautious until it proves out. :thumb:
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Post by drperry »

There's been reports of Mobil 1 no longer being a Group IV synthetic like Amsoil and Royal Purple are.

My truck maintains a more consistant oil pressure on Amsoil than it did on Mobil 1...

I don't know if I got more gas mileage out of switching it over to synthetic, but it idles smoother and revs easier.

Also, I'd recommend against Fram filters... Wix made (AC Delco or NAPA Gold) are a much better way to go...


I run 5w-30 and have no problems... And It's almost guaranteed I see colder temperatures than most of you :lol: :) (Unless there's some Alaskan peeps around)
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Post by turkeestalker »

My two cents....
I had an '85 Astro with the 4.3 liter in it that was used as a service truck for years. I ran Mobil 1 in it almost from the get go. I traded it with 260,000+ on the odometer and it still had great compression, (mind you the truck was falling apart around the engine). I religiously changed my oil around every 10,000 miles, fudging a k or two sometimes. Only things besides regular maintenance that I ever addressed, were a new radiator and a new master cylinder. Wish I could say the same for the tranny in my '98 after a 52k and 97k rebuild. Weak links....gotta have em?
By the standards when I began this practice that was abusive. I've now purchased 3 vehicles with the vortec V6 and have, or intend to, continue the same habit. Some of the credit must go to the engine and the fact that it is without a doubt, a solid little design, just not terribly economical on gas or overly powerful, yet not that bad either. But some of the credit has to go to the oil.
One other convincer for me was changing over a new Honda motorcycle I purchsed some years back, at the first break in oil change. A wet sump clutch, like most, and the difference in shifting was night and day immediately. Far smoother and quiter than only one hour before.
I will only use Mobil 1 synthetic. Though I know that there are excellent oils out there besides. This is just my personal experience and opinion.
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Post by HenryJ »

A good article on oils: All About Oil by Mark Lawrence.

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