Stripped bolt head on my rear differential cover...

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fallvitals
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Stripped bolt head on my rear differential cover...

Post by fallvitals »

:cry:

Today I started to change the front/rear differential fluids, and transfer case. Started with the rear differential. Those bolts were tourqued on there tight. Very tight. rediculously tight. Got about 5 broke free. Then I couldnt break one free. Kept trying, and keep trying, then the head started to round out some so i stopped. Tried to see if smaller head might fit. No go.


So i went ahead and changed the transfer case fluid, front diff fluid, rotated tires. Installed two 90 degree grease fittings on the steering linkage we couldnt reach. Looked like they have ever been greased cause they couldnt be reached. :x

So, dad suggested I get some Craftsman Bolt Out, stripped bolt removers. He said they actually looked pretty good compared to the chitty screw-out removers we both bought from them.

So, Any ideas on what I can do? Does the bolt out tool seem to be my best option? Final option, which I hope I dont have to, is drilling the screw out..... :!:

But Not doing anything till atleast Monday when Fastenal is open and i can get new screws for the diff. But i tightened down the bolts I had broke free and am gonna ride as is till i get something figured out. :twisted:

"nothing is ever easy" lol
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Post by blaz »

Removing stripped screws/bolts is not as hard as most people think. The key is to relax and attack it slowly. First make sure you are using the corrrect wrench or socket they are metric so make sure you are not using the standard that is close enough. I also prefer 6 point, I know others will disagree. Since the head is already rounded ( by your discripion ). I would start by hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer, this both shocks the bolt and deforms the head so that your wrench will have a tighter fit. A manual impact driver works really well for stubborn bolts. Another option is to remove all of the other bolts and use a knife between the diff cover and mounting flange to break the seal all the way around. After the cover is no longer "glued" try twisting the cover counter clockwise just enough to break free the bolt then use your wrench to remove ithe bolt. A hammer and chisle also works, but this takes some finess. You have to hit to head of the bolt so that it turns, not try to shear it off. Penetrating lube for your choice is a must also.

Good Luck.
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Post by fallvitals »

good info, I did some googling, and read about using heat/ and then hitting the bolt. Is that a worth while tactic also?

Tommorow ill get some iquid wrench or PB. I sprayed WD40 on it while working on it today. Didnt make a differance for me.

edit- also... I was using a 1/2 socket..... :oops: not the metric liek you said... I tried metric first,, and none of em fit right for me... Maybe cuase of the rust/dirt on the head. Damn.
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Post by blaz »

Heat and oil can make fire. Be very careful.
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Post by DLP »

I have a set of the Craftsman socket style bolt removers. They are GOLDEN! I have used them several times on rounded brake caliper bolts. I got them for $20 a set. Money well spent. The right tool does make a difference for sure.
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Post by fallvitals »

DLP wrote:I have a set of the Craftsman socket style bolt removers. They are GOLDEN! I have used them several times on rounded brake caliper bolts. I got them for $20 a set. Money well spent. The right tool does make a difference for sure.
I think thats gonna be my plan of attack, get those bolt outs. PB, Liquid wrench, AeroKroil one of those, and let it soak over night really good. Maybe use the hammer method some before using the bolt out....




I was also thinking.... instead of removing the cover... cant I just siphon the oil out somehow, maybe a drill pump and tube? But, I am not sure if that would remove as much fluid/dirty fluid, as removing the cover...?
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Post by fallvitals »

update,

Hey, I sprayed some pb blaster on it last night and twice today. I grabbed a 3/8 drive socket this time and ratchet (the 3/8" drive sockets have a hex design in them, I was using a 1/2" drive and those sockets have many edges on em). I put the 3/8" drive, 1/2" socket on it, and it didnt jump. I got a hammer, smacked it a few times, wouldnt budge, before getting the torch, I went and got a breaker bar, and even with the breaker bar it took a lot, but it broke it. Its free! I bought some craftsma Bolt Outs, but didn't have to use em. Oh well, I have more tools :)

Thanks for the help. Kinda off about the 3/8" drive sockets vs 1/2" drive and their design. I never would have guessed there would have eben such a differance. Didnt have enough time to change the fluid today, but I will here shortly. Thanks for the help!
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Post by DLP »

Your sockets are called 6-point and 12-point. Both have their purpose. The 6-point sockets are good at breaking bolts loose. They tend to fit tighter with more surface area. The 12-point sockets are good for stripping the heads!
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Post by blaz »

Good job! The bolt heads are 13mm, 1/2" is slightly smaller (aprox. .012") so that was a good choice. The 3/8 drive was a 6 point (hex shaped) and the 1/2" was a 12 point (many edges). They do make both six and twelve point sockets in different drive sizes, but the key is you got it off.
:D
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Post by fallvitals »

lol, the 12 points are great at that! I'll testify!


blaz, actually.. After you said they were metric I went and tried some sockets on the other bolts... 12mm was too small. 13 had way too much wiggle. 1/2" fit perfectly on all the bolts. I went to fastenal with a bolt from the diff, and the threads were 5/16, 18tpi If i recall correctly.

:?:

Im confused by that cause generally stuff like that is metric on Chevys... But its definantly is a standard bolt. :shock:
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Post by blaz »

My bolts are 8mmx1.25mm. Yours could be different but many people get these sizes confused because they are so close.

8mm=.315" diameter
1.25=.0492" pitch

5/16=.3125" diameter
1/18=.0555" pitch
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Post by F9K9 »

DLP wrote:..................................The 12-point sockets are good for stripping the heads!
Actually after buying every known type of socket set to get the very top two bolts out of a heep NP242 transfer case I was told they were twelve point bolts. :bonk: I have insisted on buying six point sockets for over 25 yrs after rounding a few bolts working at a Sears auto center in college). :lol: I panicked to learn that I needed a 12 pt socket but, eventually remembered a $5 socket and screwdriver set that I bought when I tossed a MIL on a road trip and needed to change out t-stats.

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