CV shaft question

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Lil-j
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CV shaft question

Post by Lil-j »

What's the torque specs for the hub nuts, after the front hub bearings have been changed?

Can the front CV shafts be removed without having to take apart the ball joints apart?
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by Lil-j »

Anybody?! 27 views!
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by blaz »

http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic ... orque+spec

HJ had a good write up @ one time.

The posted link said 103, IIRC I torqued mine to 180.
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by HenryJ »

Autozone online repair guides can be a good resource if you need the information quickly:
Autozone wrote:To install:

Install or connect the following:

Hub and bearing assembly by aligning the threaded holes. Torque the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (105 Nm).

Tie rod end to the steering knuckle using the retaining nut

New cotter pin

Brake assembly

Halfshaft nut. Tighten the nut to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).

Retainer and a new cotter pin but DO NOT back off specification in order to insert the cotter pin.
It is possible that the lack of response was due to the fact that a little searching would answer your question?

Front hub / wheel bearing assembly replacement.

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Re: CV shaft question

Post by Lil-j »

Ok thamks for answering that question. I ask because I did search and found varying answers, I'd like to get a few differant answers and go from there. The search doesnt always yield the best results or still leave me with question, so that is why I asked.

Which leades to the second question, couldnt find an answer. Can the right half shaft be taken out and replaced without taking ball joints apart? I ask because I'm wondering if I turn the knuckle all the way forward, I think I might be able to get the end out through the back side of the knuckle, then pull the differential end out. Instead of pulling apart the lower ball joint apart. Has anybody done it this way, is it possible?
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by HenryJ »

Never tried it that way. I have always popped the lower ball joint loose or pulled the wheel bearing depending upon the application.

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Re: CV shaft question

Post by roadrunner »

I have removed/replaced the RH cv shaft without removal or disconnection of either the hub bearing or the ball joint. It is tight but comes out opposite what you think. You need to crank the steering clear to the right and pop the INSIDE of the cv joint loose from the front differential shaft compressing the outer end of the shaft into the outer cv joint end. This will allow barely enough room to remove the shaft from the truck. A WORD OF CAUTION! Make sure when you install the new/replace the old axle to engage the internal snap ring in the end of the inner cv joint and take care not to dislodge the needle bearings in the end of the differential housing!!!
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by crazycarl »

roadrunner wrote:I have removed/replaced the RH cv shaft without removal or disconnection of either the hub bearing or the ball joint. It is tight but comes out opposite what you think. You need to crank the steering clear to the right and pop the INSIDE of the cv joint loose from the front differential shaft compressing the outer end of the shaft into the outer cv joint end. This will allow barely enough room to remove the shaft from the truck. A WORD OF CAUTION! Make sure when you install the new/replace the old axle to engage the internal snap ring in the end of the inner cv joint and take care not to dislodge the needle bearings in the end of the differential housing!!!
I replaced my right side CV axle just now and am having trouble getting it back in. its partially in, maybe 1/4"-1/2" in but won't go any further. did I dislodge those needle bearings? I still have about an inch, maybe less go.
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by roadrunner »

crazycarl wrote:
roadrunner wrote:I have removed/replaced the RH cv shaft without removal or disconnection of either the hub bearing or the ball joint. It is tight but comes out opposite what you think. You need to crank the steering clear to the right and pop the INSIDE of the cv joint loose from the front differential shaft compressing the outer end of the shaft into the outer cv joint end. This will allow barely enough room to remove the shaft from the truck. A WORD OF CAUTION! Make sure when you install the new/replace the old axle to engage the internal snap ring in the end of the inner cv joint and take care not to dislodge the needle bearings in the end of the differential housing!!!
I replaced my right side CV axle just now and am having trouble getting it back in. its partially in, maybe 1/4"-1/2" in but won't go any further. did I dislodge those needle bearings? I still have about an inch, maybe less go.
More likely the internal snap ring is fighting you or has been dislodged from it's groove. Double/triple check. Damage WILL result if it's not engaged properly. Double check on needle bearings is also in order.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by crazycarl »

roadrunner wrote:More likely the internal snap ring is fighting you or has been dislodged from it's groove. Double/triple check. Damage WILL result if it's not engaged properly. Double check on needle bearings is also in order.
There is one snap ring right? It was still on when I put the axle partially on. Didn't look super loose either but moved around easily. I have probably 1/4" of the axle in the seal at the moment. But I will double check.

How would I go about checking the needle bearings?
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by roadrunner »

crazycarl wrote:
roadrunner wrote:More likely the internal snap ring is fighting you or has been dislodged from it's groove. Double/triple check. Damage WILL result if it's not engaged properly. Double check on needle bearings is also in order.
There is one snap ring right? It was still on when I put the axle partially on. Didn't look super loose either but moved around easily. I have probably 1/4" of the axle in the seal at the moment. But I will double check.

How would I go about checking the needle bearings?

Only way to be sure on the bearing is visual with a mirror if possible. With the axle removed of course. And yes, there is only one snap ring.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by crazycarl »

roadrunner wrote:Only way to be sure on the bearing is visual with a mirror if possible. With the axle removed of course. And yes, there is only one snap ring.
Okay roger that. I haven't been able to double check anything yet but will hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for the help so far though!
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by killian96ss »

Having done a few of these axles myself, I have to agree with roadrunner, you're probably just fighting the snap ring. Sometimes it takes a few good whacks with a BFH to seat the snap ring. I ran into the same problem a few months ago when installing a passenger side cv axle on my 88 S10 Blazer. It still needed to go in another inch but wouldn't, so I used my 5 lb sledge and a block of wood on the end to pound it in. I've even had the same problem replacing cv shafts on FWD imports. Those snap rings sure are a PITA!

Steve
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by crazycarl »

killian96ss wrote:Having done a few of these axles myself, I have to agree with roadrunner, you're probably just fighting the snap ring. Sometimes it takes a few good whacks with a BFH to seat the snap ring. I ran into the same problem a few months ago when installing a passenger side cv axle on my 88 S10 Blazer. It still needed to go in another inch but wouldn't, so I used my 5 lb sledge and a block of wood on the end to pound it in. I've even had the same problem replacing cv shafts on FWD imports. Those snap rings sure are a PITA!

Steve
Thanks Steve. I'm going to borrow a bigger hammer as the one I was using isn't big at all. I
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Re: CV shaft question

Post by crazycarl »

5lb sledge made tapping the CV joint a breeze. First hit and it popped in. Recommend that to anyone in the future!
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